Never had a problem with shoulder bumping consistancy as long as you stay with the same brass manufacture (switch brass, reset dies) ...I use rcbs rockchucker press

 

I actually wore out a Hornady LNL Die Bushing set from forming some 400 TAC 6 cases. Headspace was all over the map. Swapped out to a new set and was golden again. These are ok for bumping the shoulder but don't reccomend this setup for necking down cases. I am also using a Rockcrusher

 

Anbody use these adjustable shell holders? Did they fix the problem?

 

I use them to load for my Contender pistols and they do work as advertised. Only problem is they aren't making them for the 6.8 case head. Call Redding and inquire as to when they might be available, hopefully the Valkyrie might help get them produced.

 

Will do, looks like that is #5 and their website says they do not make these for #5. Just checked to see if Hornady makes them, doesn't appear so. Anyone know of another option?

 

You never said that you anneal but don't you think that annealing might soften the brass enough to make a difference?

 

What OneK said... I also anneal and have no issues with consistency on shoulder bump. Forster Coax is my primary press, also have Hornady LnL AP and RCBS Rockchucker.

 

RCBS rock checker and my adjustments measure acceptable shoulder bump by following directions and years of experience setting them up. I try to use same brand of brass.

 

What type press and dies are you using now?

 

I use the HDY Single Stage and the AP. HDY dies.

 

Tighten the die lock ring. No play in threads.
Go slow at the end of the stroke, fast loads the press, slow allows the brass to 'Flow'.
Stop for a second or two at the end of the stroke.

For the 22N and 22 Nosgar (not reloading 6.8 yet)
I use a Lee 4 position turret, auto index removed, the cast iron one not the aluminum, Redding body die and Lee collet sizing die (undersize mandrel). Going slow at the end of the stroke made the difference for me.

 

I'll try this.

 

Are you mixing once fired with 3-4-5 fired brass?

 

Not intentionally, but it is possible and something I need to consider.

 

Inconsistent lube will cause this also.

 

I use the Whidden Click Adjustable FL Bushing Sizer Die for several cartridges with great success. They have a "hydraulic" die for forming that eliminates fire forming step in high dollar match chambers.

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/click-adjustable-fl-bushing-sizer-3/

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/click-adjustable-die-instructions/

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/hydraulic-form-die/

 

I use the Whidden Click Adjustable FL Bushing Sizer Die for several cartridges with great success. They have a "hydraulic" die for forming that eliminates fire forming step in high dollar match chambers.

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/product/click-adjustable-fl-bushing-sizer-3/

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/click-adjustable-die-instructions/

https://www.whiddengunworks.com/hydraulic-form-die/

Interesting. I didn't see an option though on their FL die for 6.8. They have 28 Nosler though??? I had not seen a hydraulic form die before. Thanks for sending.

 

Unless there is something strange about the 6.8 that makes it harder to bump than other cartridges just about any old sizing die and press should be able to make repeatable and consistent cases.
Once you have adjusted and locked down the die it should not move.
The lock ring types (that I use) are not as convenient as the click types though.
The lock ring needs to be torqued to the press to put force on the die. Not just lock the ring with an allen.

A weak press that flexes under load can be overcome.
The normal die passes the mandrel into the case to round out the neck. That takes very little force and once the sizing button has passes through it does not contribute to press flex.
As the body and neck are sized down that loads up the press, with the last little bit of movement bumping the shoulder.
That last little bit is what loads up the press. New or once fired brass will be softer than hard worked brass.
At the end of the sizing stroke you should be able to feel the die bumping the shoulder and spring back when you let off pressure.
You might need to try a different lube.

Try this:
Remove the internal sizing mandrel.
Lube and Size a case. Stop at the end of the sizing stroke. Let off all pressure.
Pressure on the press is less now that the case has been sized.
Now ease the case back out just a little and press again. Hold for a second or two.
The second press hits the shoulder again.

See if you get repeatable bump measurements.

I really like the body die (Redding) as I can feel exactly when the shoulder hits the die and how much it moves.
Without a mandrel to pull back out the shoulder is not disturbed after bumped.
The collet neck die does add an extra step though.

 

I have had some issues as well. I recently changed to Redding Type S full length sizing die. I am using Hornady brass so a 300 bushing is .002 less than a loaded 110 NOS AB. Once setup it is very consistent. I use imperial sizing wax and apply it by hand/feel. As mentioned above consistent application is required. Then pay attention to the feel of the sizing operation. I also use a Sinclair Mandrel to get the final neck sizing I want.

 

Just saw this on Midsouth Shooters Blog and it’s an interesting tip that I have not previously tried. Early up in this thread it was suggested to lock down the rings tight, but I haven’t heard about running a case up in the die with press all the way up when locking down the ring. Makes sense to me.

“Sizing die lock ring
Speaking of “wiggle room,” there’s just a little too much of that in a 7/8-14 thread. It’s pretty coarse. Taking up the play created by thread-to-thread gaps results in “straighter” die installation.

Always (always) secure a die body locking ring when there is a case inside the die, and with the ram in its fully upward position (press handle all the way down). This bit of pressure helps bring the die into better alignment. It also makes the die difficult to remove after snugging down the lock ring. Just get stout on it, and, after initial removal, subsequent re-fittings are easy. I use a “strap wrench” (plumbing supply and auto parts stores will have one). “Channel-Lock” pliers also work, but result in cosmetic, but not real, damage. Lock rings with wrench-flats are the bomb.

Before initial removal of the die after the snug-up step, draw an indexing mark from the die body to the die lock ring to the press top. That’s a simple way to return to “zero,” and also to know if anything got out of kilter. Use a paint marker.

 

I'd be afraid of wearing the threads of the die and press by forcing the die out once it's had the lock ring snugged down. I loosen the lock ring first, then remove the die. More time to set up the next time, but over time less wear on expensive tools.

Also to get a die set back to the intended position after removing with it locked with the ring, I would expect a specific torque would need to be used. I think you would still need to slightly adjust the die each time, but that's just conjecture.

Dirt/debris can also accumulate under the shell holder changing gap tolerances. I find this happening decapping with the same shell holder and press. A good cleaning of these could help with getting repeatable shoulder bump. I also clean and check the inside of the shell holder for brass shavings that seem to appear. I use the same press for everything so it gets rather dirty.

Just some thoughts...