like I have enough slop to insert a piece of wax paper but all the working parts are in the upper and thru the scope... I have the same slop using any break down pins I have...
zztopman1
A little slop is normal. What lower did you use. Some, such as Aero Precision (gen 2) have a screw under the grip that you can tighten to take that out.
It's certainly "normal" but not required. I have several Noveske gen 2 sets that have zero wobble between the upper and lower.The gen 3s have the tensioning screw in the lower. On my hunting ARs I don't tolerate any slop. On my plinkers I don't care too much.
-Stooxie
-Stooxie
Reason I normally only buy lowers with the adjustment screw to put tension on to remove slop. Accuwedges work if it really bothers you and don't have a lower with the screw to remove it. I just never like the idea of accuwedges to much.
http://www.wheeldiamond.com/ar15accushim.htm
These are the shims I use, same as Rocketvapor shows in his first pic.
I had one upper/lower so loose you could hear it rattle as I walked, not good for a hunting AR15.
These are the shims I use, same as Rocketvapor shows in his first pic.
I had one upper/lower so loose you could hear it rattle as I walked, not good for a hunting AR15.
I used an Accuwedge for a long time. It took the slope out by pushing up on the upper and holding it against the takedown pin, just like the screw.
Where I see an issue is every bit of slop is pushed into the gap between the upper and lower.
The upper is held tight by a one point push. It works but taking up the slop between the upper and lower AT the upper and lower, and with full width contact, just seems better. Is it easier to sit motionless on a bicycle or a tricycle?
I feel no slop from the handguard to the stock (plastic shim against the buffer tube).
Since I only shoot this one prone and don't adjust the stock anyway it's got a lead plug in it that sets LOP.
So
What's this slop yu guys be speakin about ?
Where I see an issue is every bit of slop is pushed into the gap between the upper and lower.
The upper is held tight by a one point push. It works but taking up the slop between the upper and lower AT the upper and lower, and with full width contact, just seems better. Is it easier to sit motionless on a bicycle or a tricycle?
I feel no slop from the handguard to the stock (plastic shim against the buffer tube).
Since I only shoot this one prone and don't adjust the stock anyway it's got a lead plug in it that sets LOP.
So
What's this slop yu guys be speakin about ?
You should have seen the M16A1's the army issued. Talk about slop. They were pretty bad. It really doesn't hurt anything that I can see other than being annoying and maybe noisy. By virtue of design when you are holding it in a shooting position you take all the slop out.
If you are holding the rifle off hand then maybe the balance of the rifle will load up all the slack the same each time.
If you shoot from position then the weight of the forward contact point will load up all the slop.
If you shoot with a sling, then sling tension will load up all the slop.
Even if you shoot off a bipod or rest the upper/lower joint is loaded.
Just because some in the high power world shim their uppers to their lowers, just for a feel good, isn't a solid indication it affects accuracy at all.
I did mine, just in case.
No-Gas port on a long heavy barrel.
Paint shimmed the barrel extension, lapped the receiver (shameless plug for my Kindle book ), shim on the pivot pin, shim at the rear of the upper/lower, shim in the adjustable stock.
Weights to get close to the F-Open upper limit.
All that and I'm still not great
If you shoot from position then the weight of the forward contact point will load up all the slop.
If you shoot with a sling, then sling tension will load up all the slop.
Even if you shoot off a bipod or rest the upper/lower joint is loaded.
Just because some in the high power world shim their uppers to their lowers, just for a feel good, isn't a solid indication it affects accuracy at all.
I did mine, just in case.
No-Gas port on a long heavy barrel.
Paint shimmed the barrel extension, lapped the receiver (shameless plug for my Kindle book
), shim on the pivot pin, shim at the rear of the upper/lower, shim in the adjustable stock. Weights to get close to the F-Open upper limit.
All that and I'm still not great
Mine have a little bit of wiggle. More noticed in cold weather. With both shooting sub-moa groups, perfect function; I don’t mind a bit. Not enough to make noise.....
No slop in my JP receiver set, bought together. JP has over and under sized front and rear pins, they fix the slop before the product goes out the door. The pins are for sale on the JP website. The barrel extensions fit tight in the receivers, also.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Adhesiv...tops-Door-Drawer-Cabinet-Home-Kitchen-Glass-Holder-120-Pack-SCB08-120/302965852
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Good Grief!!! Almost a no brainier!!!
Does that area under the receiver behind the trigger get too hot to just put one or 2 of these and use as a bumper ... better squeezing while setting the pin than that harder nylon screw head???
My screw is not sticking up any farther than one of these bumpers
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Good Grief!!! Almost a no brainier!!!
Does that area under the receiver behind the trigger get too hot to just put one or 2 of these and use as a bumper ... better squeezing while setting the pin than that harder nylon screw head???
My screw is not sticking up any farther than one of these bumpers
One of mine was sloppy loose but a cheap foam earplug under the rear lug tighten it up . If you are worried about loosing it hot glue it in if it is still loose wit one supper glue two together . The results are super tight ,no rattle and almost no money spent .
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
Sent from my Moto E (4) using Tapatalk
The various slop-elinimators, I've used a few, tighten up the assembly by placing an upward force on the rear lug against the takedown pin.
Even oversized/adjustable pins tighten the lug to the pin and stabilize it to the pin at both side of the lower.
The small gap may or may not be there but at least the assembly feels tight and doesn't rattle.
Unless you apply a little torque between the upper and lower you may not notice any rattle and interpret that as no slop.
When a round goes bang, you sure won't notice any wobble.
The Accushim is adjusted (sanded) for a good stiff / slip fit of the pin and contact/stabilizes the assembly at two wide spaced contact lines on the upper/lower rear contact zone.
It shims the upper and the pin pulls the Upper DOWN into contact with the lower, not push it UP or lock it to the pin.
All will reduce slop/rattle, I am now using the shim.
Will it make my rifle more precise? Probably not.
Will it make your high end, matched receiver set more precise? Absolutely NOT.
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Pushing UP on the upper receiver lug MAXIMIZES the gap and creates a good place to store your dope card or various business cards
Even oversized/adjustable pins tighten the lug to the pin and stabilize it to the pin at both side of the lower.
The small gap may or may not be there but at least the assembly feels tight and doesn't rattle.
Unless you apply a little torque between the upper and lower you may not notice any rattle and interpret that as no slop.
When a round goes bang, you sure won't notice any wobble.
The Accushim is adjusted (sanded) for a good stiff / slip fit of the pin and contact/stabilizes the assembly at two wide spaced contact lines on the upper/lower rear contact zone.
It shims the upper and the pin pulls the Upper DOWN into contact with the lower, not push it UP or lock it to the pin.
All will reduce slop/rattle, I am now using the shim.
Will it make my rifle more precise? Probably not.
Will it make your high end, matched receiver set more precise? Absolutely NOT.
Pushing UP on the upper receiver lug MAXIMIZES the gap and creates a good place to store your dope card or various business cards
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