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You'll fall in love with Flitz once you begin using it. Try it on any "blued" gun you have. The rag will come up rust brown, and the bluing with pop with shine.
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Well I haven't been able to pick up some flitz- yet. But I did rip my SP01 apart and polished all mates surfaces in the FCG and the slide with some 2000grit sandpaper. First for me but pretty confident I didn't over do it because I wasn't looking for consistent shine but rather a consistent slick surface, some machine marks still visible, still dull in some areas but smooth as silk. I put the slide on the frame empty and racked it a few times and it was nice.
Will be getting the Cajun reduced power springs and a few other goodies on Friday. Also couldn't resist some LOK grips- thin bogies.
I'll be going to the range next weekend when my father comes up for the holiday. Can't wait to abuse and report- figure of speech.
 

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Well I haven't been able to pick up some flitz- yet. But I did rip my SP01 apart and polished all mates surfaces in the FCG and the slide with some 2000grit sandpaper. First for me but pretty confident I didn't over do it because I wasn't looking for consistent shine but rather a consistent slick surface, some machine marks still visible, still dull in some areas but smooth as silk. I put the slide on the frame empty and racked it a few times and it was nice.
Will be getting the Cajun reduced power springs and a few other goodies on Friday. Also couldn't resist some LOK grips- thin bogies.
I'll be going to the range next weekend when my father comes up for the holiday. Can't wait to abuse and report- figure of speech.
If you can, in SA, cock hammer and watch it closely as you
slowly pull trigger. If the hammer creeps forward you have negative seat engagement. If it creeps back (stock comes back significantly) then that is positive sear engagement. Ideally neutral sear engagement is desired for the best target trigger but I like a barely noticeable positive engagement if I'm doing my own polishing.

For visual reference here is a ROUGH drawing of engagement surface of the hammer showing neutral positive and negative engagement angles. Neutral should be flat at 90 degrees but drawing on a touch screen is hard sometimes.
Slope Font Pattern Symmetry Triangle

Neutral (actually a fair example of a stock engagement with the trasition to + at end). Positive + and Negative -

Do this at your own risk but here are the steps to doing a trigger job on most hammer fired semiauto handguns out there in addition to swapping springs. Adjust angle of hammer engagement surface to more neutral and polish the hell out of it (flitz or jewelers rouge both work). Make sure to reassemble and follow directions above to check for negative sear engagement to ensure you don't over do it. If you want you can also file the nose down a little to reduce the creep and make for an ultra crisp trigger. Typically leave enough hammer engagement that is at least the width of the sear nose. Take care or you will end up without enough surface for the sear to reliably catch.
70902
 

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If you can, in SA, cock hammer and watch it closely as you
slowly pull trigger. If the hammer creeps forward you have negative seat engagement. If it creeps back (stock comes back significantly) then that is positive sear engagement. Ideally neutral sear engagement is desired for the best target trigger but I like a barely noticeable positive engagement if I'm doing my own polishing.

For visual reference here is a ROUGH drawing of engagement surface of the hammer showing neutral positive and negative engagement angles. Neutral should be flat at 90 degrees but drawing on a touch screen is hard sometimes. View attachment 70901
Neutral (actually a fair example of a stock engagement with the trasition to + at end). Positive + and Negative -

Do this at your own risk but here are the steps to doing a trigger job on most hammer fired semiauto handguns out there in addition to swapping springs. Adjust angle of hammer engagement surface to more neutral and polish the hell out of it (flitz or jewelers rouge both work). Make sure to reassemble and follow directions above to check for negative sear engagement to ensure you don't over do it. If you want you can also file the nose down a little to reduce the creep and make for an ultra crisp trigger. Typically leave enough hammer engagement that is at least the width of the sear nose. Take care or you will end up without enough surface for the sear to reliably catch.
View attachment 70902
Well gentleman,
I have polished the trigger parts lightly, installed a CGW spring kit and a light trigger return spring. I also installed a 13# recoil spring and a stainless steel guide rod.
 

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Not sure what happened on previous post--
71274

Well gentleman,
I have polished the trigger parts lightly, installed a CGW spring kit and a light trigger return spring. I also installed a 13# recoil spring and a stainless steel guide rod. I like the grips.
 

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How's that trigger now?

To be hones, it's seems it could have been polished a little more. I didn't polish the sear engagement area yet and I didn't want to over do it. Ill keep working at it.

The good- It does seem a little smoother. The springs make a noticeably lighter DA pull but not super light.

I'm going to see how it shoots this weekend then maybe I'll polish some more. Dont care to deal with the decocker sear cage too much, it's a Pita.
 

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Yeah those can suck. The Safety models of the 75 (non omega) have this sear cage already captured and it removes as a unit. You can do the same in decocker models of you drive out the pin and replace it with a slave pin to hold it all together. Looks like you already replaced the trigger so I assume you had a CGW trigger return spring installed. If not that will take a few more ounces off. If you want a lighter pull for a range/competition gun the 11lb spring is pretty sweet. Only every had one light strike (was with reman ammo) in over 3000 rounds with that one but a follow up strike fired it. Enhanced FP fixed that issue. They have an 8lb as well but it's very primer specific. Ceramic stones work well for engagement surfaces. As I mentioned above of you shorten the "Hooks" on the hammer it will work wonders just do a little at a time and make sure to leave it the width of the sear. Follow all of that with flitz or other polish.

My personal gun competition gun is running just under 3lbs single and around 5lb da with the spring upgrade, TRS, and a SRS system.
 

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Yeah those can suck. The Safety models of the 75 (non omega) have this sear cage already captured and it removes as a unit. You can do the same in decocker models of you drive out the pin and replace it with a slave pin to hold it all together. Looks like you already replaced the trigger so I assume you had a CGW trigger return spring installed. If not that will take a few more ounces off. If you want a lighter pull for a range/competition gun the 11lb spring is pretty sweet. Only every had one light strike (was with reman ammo) in over 3000 rounds with that one but a follow up strike fired it. Enhanced FP fixed that issue. They have an 8lb as well but it's very primer specific. Ceramic stones work well for engagement surfaces. As I mentioned above of you shorten the "Hooks" on the hammer it will work wonders just do a little at a time and make sure to leave it the width of the sear. Follow all of that with flitz or other polish.

My personal gun competition gun is running just under 3lbs single and around 5lb da with the spring upgrade, TRS, and a SRS system.
Yeah those can suck. The Safety models of the 75 (non omega) have this sear cage already captured and it removes as a unit. You can do the same in decocker models of you drive out the pin and replace it with a slave pin to hold it all together. Looks like you already replaced the trigger so I assume you had a CGW trigger return spring installed. If not that will take a few more ounces off. If you want a lighter pull for a range/competition gun the 11lb spring is pretty sweet. Only every had one light strike (was with reman ammo) in over 3000 rounds with that one but a follow up strike fired it. Enhanced FP fixed that issue. They have an 8lb as well but it's very primer specific. Ceramic stones work well for engagement surfaces. As I mentioned above of you shorten the "Hooks" on the hammer it will work wonders just do a little at a time and make sure to leave it the width of the sear. Follow all of that with flitz or other polish.

My personal gun competition gun is running just under 3lbs single and around 5lb da with the spring upgrade, TRS, and a SRS system.
 

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Apparently I can’t figure out the reply link.

Anyhow, I think I have the DA down to about 8-9#.
I did the trigger return spring, block plunger spring, firing pin spring, hammer spring and recoil spring. Also changed the trigger pin and firing pin retaining pin. When I first tried to put the sear cage back in I broke the lifter spring and had to order a new one. I won’t lighten this trigger up to a comp type trigger until I get a Phantom. I’d like to use the phantom as a carry pistol.
 

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Some of your poundage is likely due to excessive Positive sear engagement, and that’s where the diagrams above come into play. Also lightly stone and then polish the trigger connection bar (loops around magazine) and the side of the hammer this removes any burs etc and can really slick it up. This can also be accomplished by firing thousands of rounds but is quicker and a lot cheaper to stone and polish.

These same hammer engagement surface stoning and polishing techniques can be used on a milspec ar trigger as well. Don’t stone trigger surface, and only remove the bump on the hammer surface. Replace the trigger spring with a Wolf reduced power trigger spring and get to neutral engagement and add a take up screw to the grip screw slot (aluminum receivers only) and a 3.5-4lb trigger can be had. I make a take up screw out of spare grip screws I cut about 3/8 off and cut a slit in top with a hacksaw to turn with a flat head screwdriver. Remove grip insert take up screw and tighten until safety won’t turn. Then back off 1/8 turn until it will. Loctite in place and replace grip.
 

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Wanted to report- the SP01 trigger was significantly better with the spring upgrade and a little polishin, I am pleased. Additionally, the lok- bogie grips are really “grippy”. Happy camper right here!
 

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I wish I had the words to describe the feel and function of my 97B. I was ready to send the gun back when I first got it, it was horrible but I'm so glad I kept it and stocked it full of CGW goodness, along with all of the appropriate polishing. It now is, without hesitation my favorite range semi.
 

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TR1hemi, yes sir that is a beauty. Is that NP3? CZs are some fine guns. Had a chance to shoot one of their 22 bolt guns last weekend, a 457 maybe?, and that little sucker will stack a whole mag dang near in the same hole, a 10 leaf cloverleaf. It was beautiful and effortless. I had my own ammo because I was shooting my 10/22 and didnt want to burn the guys ammo so I ran some Fed HV Match and it loved that ammo. The owner was highly impressed so for letting me shoot it I loaded him a mag of it and let him have a go with a similar result. He said he knew what he was buying. I told him about SK too. I think he was a new-ish gun owner. Nice guy with a nice CZ, rifle
I think CZ just has a great business model, quality above all. I have Dan Wessons too and I'll never turn loose of them either. Hopefully they can turn Colt around too.
 

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TR1hemi, yes sir that is a beauty. Is that NP3? CZs are some fine guns.
I think CZ just has a great business model, quality above all. I have Dan Wessons too and I'll never turn loose of them either. Hopefully they can turn Colt around too.
No it is an actual stainless, they made them a while back, then added a polished stainless (looked like a 50's car bumber), I dont think have made them for a few years. Think I paid $450 for it back in the very early 2000's, I consider it quite a steal today!
 

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I've got a CZ 85B in 9mm, would have loved it in 40 S&W. I originally got it to use as my race gun (wrist surgery put an end to that fun). Out of the box it is the sweetest shooters. My wife has a couple of inexpensive Tanfoglios (high quality CZ copies) one in 9mm the other in 40. They shoot way better than their price would indicate.
 

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I've got a CZ 85B in 9mm, would have loved it in 40 S&W. I originally got it to use as my race gun (wrist surgery put an end to that fun). Out of the box it is the sweetest shooters. My wife has a couple of inexpensive Tanfoglios (high quality CZ copies) one in 9mm the other in 40. They shoot way better than their price would indicate.
I have an ambi 75b in 40s&w that I turned into my competition gun. I then switched out a stock sp01 9mm barrel to convert it. Sweet sweet shooter.
 

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I have an ambi 75b in 40s&w that I turned into my competition gun. I then switched out a stock sp01 9mm barrel to convert it. Sweet sweet shooter.
Nice!
I don't know that could be done. That's cool.

Yeah, my 85 is an ambi 75. Svelte for a double stack. The action is smooth as silk. It's got some kind of wonder finish on it that I swear you could pour a quart of oil on it and it would soak it up without feeling slippery.
 
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