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Ozark, I was just thinking if you close the gas off then it will obviously not eject the case and you can see if timing was an issue causing so much pressure sign. If there is over-pressure, it will mark the case the same as it does in a bolt gun. If the marks are not as bad when the bolt does not operate, then it is timing. The brass in the pictures is getting hammered pretty good.
 

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I've owne dozens of ARP melonite barrels. Never once "polished" a chamber. Thorough cleaning has always been good enough for me.
And that proves what? Several people have experienced excessive build up and cases sticking with Melonite barrels . Often enough H has discussed the need to clean the chambers up . Op said his is stainless so I Melonite build up is not his problem but others may need to know about it .

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Ozark, I was just thinking if you close the gas off then it will obviously not eject the case and you can see if timing was an issue causing so much pressure sign. If there is over-pressure, it will mark the case the same as it does in a bolt gun. If the marks are not as bad when the bolt does not operate, then it is timing. The brass in the pictures is getting hammered pretty good.
I get what you mean. Of course there would be no ripping or gouging because the extractor claw would not be pulling on the case and there would not be swipe marks because the bolt would not be turning .

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And that proves what? Several people have experienced excessive build up and cases sticking with Melonite barrels . Often enough H has discussed the need to clean the chambers up . Op said his is stainless so I Melonite build up is not his problem but others may need to know about it .

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It proves that when people recommend polishing the chamber, often a thorough cleaning Is all that's necessary.
 

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It proves that when people recommend polishing the chamber, often a thorough cleaning Is all that's necessary.
I think I recommend not to give it a mirror polish but just clean it of residue . My 18" ARP just needed foam my 16" was also very quick and easy but my 12.5 " looked like a asphalt county road before light polish . You are right " often " it is not necessary but if you have the one in a million that needs polishing then polish it but not to a mirror finish . Now that said his is a stainless barrel but I would still look at the chamber and ejected cases . I'm sure some people have dozens of stainless barrels that doesn't have tool marks or are extremely rough but he could have that one in a million . Never load someone else's load because all barrels and chambers are not the same .

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Are you talking about this tool in the video? What should the difference be between factory and fired brass, or what is the max allowed? Does it need to once fired or fired 2-3 times?

Yes, that is Hornady's tool. I use it every time I set up dies for a new caliber or rifle. I have always measured the difference from new brass to once-fired that has been deprimed. I supposed you could measure the difference between brass that has been fired multiple times and new. IMO, you are better off measuring the once-fired. Use the A 330 insert for 6.8mm SPC. The max difference I've seen in the rifles I've built has been 0.017" and have had no issues. The min was 0.004" with new Valkyrie brass.
 
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