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Several good videos including the one posted above in the article. Great Idea
 
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WOW this makes complete sense in any hunting season, first season is usually warmer than anyone wants, our 2nd Doe season is in much colder weather and finally I can use my SBR in alternative season which is freezing...
I might just have to "pull the trigger" on this.
 
If you don't mind measuring , how long if it from front to back and is it comparable in hight to reg gas block so I can still use my slim front .

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At work tonight. Will try to measure when I get home at 0330 or tomorrow and post up.

That old MI slim handguard had room for the block/tube in that raised channel under the top pic rail. I did have to back out the screws on the pic rail sections to clear the adjustment dial when I reinstalled the handguard. The "gas block" itself is roughly the size of a standard block.
 
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So, zero in before hunting season starts, it's warm out, at least 70s and up.
If it drops to 30s then a few clicks open? if to the teens, then wide open??? Bcuz no one is going to zero in on the property during the hunts.
Is this the idea behind this GB?


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This link looks like the best way to buy what you need.
 
So, zero in before hunting season starts, it's warm out, at least 70s and up.
If it drops to 30s then a few clicks open? if to the teens, then wide open??? Bcuz no one is going to zero in on the property during the hunts.
Is this the idea behind this GB?


View attachment 76068


This link looks like the best way to buy what you need.
Yes that diagram is exactly what I needed . With ARP 6.8 and most loads the difference between 70° and 30° is not big but it still is good to be able to have it set to the optimum amount of gas . I want one to adjust for with and without a suppressor and sub- super sonic use not to mention being able to turn my 8.5" . 300 bo into a repeater with the turn of a knob . I have not tried my favorite loads in the 6.8 suppressed yet . I have an adj block on my 12.5 already but might put one of these on it also .

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3.3 is too short and 4.3 too long . I will have to go with a shorter rail or extended barrel .

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I'm getting one for my 10.5, that's the only gun that will see these temp swings in one season. Plus I won't even have to remove my hand guard to change this out... way too ez
 
Even though it will be almost completely under my rail I'm going to try one . If I can't turn it with the end sticking out I'll access it through the slots on the side or maybe shorten the rail 1/2 inch .

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Changed out the plunger to the 937.

Been meaning to put in a blue Springco buffer and figured since I'm taking it "out of commission" for the time being it'd be a good time to swap it in.

Took a bunch of odds and ends reloads: 90gr GD, 100AB, 110Vmax, 115FMJ, and 115 Hornady OTM. Some of these are over 10yrs old. Some are potent, some not.

No can today.

83 degF.

Started at 6, worked up to reliable function.

The 110Vmax, 115s (Fed fmj, Horn OTM, and Nos CC) all ran at 11.

The 90GD and 100AB ran at 10.

I wish I had brought xm68 and S&B 110fmj for comparison, but I was limited on time and just wanted to see that it worked.

After the dial gets hot but it turns easy enough it could change settings with bare fingers.

Once dialed I ran about 100rds through, fairly rapidly, without hiccup.

Need to make up a table with setting vs projo vs charge/powder and look for correlations other than the obvious projo weight trend.
 
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Changed out the plunger to the 937.
What plungers do you get included??

I'm running light weight BDG and I have the Yellow reduced buffer spring with S&B 120PT as my guns fav
I run gas lower then most, should I be requesting a certain plunger with my order?
 
It comes with 917(already installed) and 937 (included) which they say should cover most uses. The 937 description mentions 6.8 so I used that. Very easy to swap out as well.
 
Just emailed my experience with Kyle of Riflespeed. He says, ideally, you should be at setting 5-6 on the block and that the 917 plunger will drop me 4 settings. This would put me at settings 6-7 on those reloads I tested.
 
Realistically, whether I go from room temp, to 40s outside, or room temp to 20s outside, if my 1st shot is on a deer, and a 2nd shot is rare, is this thing even needed on a hunting gun???
I'd love to get one, and I'd love to boast it would make a difference but would it really?
 
I think under those criteria, if you've tested/developed your load under those conditions and you're happy, then it's just something else to break.

But if you shoot multiple loads year round, w and wo a can, it probably would help. Case in point: I was testing some full-power loads in my TAC6 which has a "bleed off" type block tuned for 92gr CBB projos and a can. I shot a ladder with 58gr varmint bullets and, while everything stacked well (regardless of charge!), all were FTE. So I'm mulling one of these blocks to be able to switch easily between loads. At least that's my thinking.
 
I don't have or need an adj gas block on most of my ARs . The reason I bought one was to be able to make my BO. a repeater instead of semi auto and visa versa . I may get one for my 12.5 "6.8 because to stay in compliance with mo. Hunting regulations it has to wear a 5" tube to be under 26" which requires a adj block . The rest of the year it is on a carbine tube . Mine came quickly and seems to be good quality ,if the gas tube they forgot to put in the box and the 6" handrail I need to access it will just get here I'll be able to test it .

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