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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to remove the Vortex Comp from my IWT 6.8ARP Barreled upper and replace it with a Thread Protector to shorten the overall length and make it a little Quieter for hunting.

Anyway will a strap wrench work to hold the barrel , or piece of leather around it and put it in a vice or do I need to make a barrel vice out of wood to hold barrel in vice?
 

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I would recommend contacting IWT before wrenching on anything just to cover your bases.

A barrel vice made out of wood would be the best option if you don't want to buy a barrel vise.
I made one out of 2x4 with a vee in each piece for changing savage barrels and it works great when used with rosin.
 

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If you do buy something, check out the Geissele Reaction rod. Great for installing barrels and nice for muzzle devices as you can leave the handguard and optic on. On sale sometimes for $80.


Heinous typos thanks to autocorrect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
re

I would recommend contacting IWT before wrenching on anything just to cover your bases.

A barrel vice made out of wood would be the best option if you don't want to buy a barrel vise.
I made one out of 2x4 with a vee in each piece for changing savage barrels and it works great when used with rosin.
Thanks for the Info
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If you do buy something, check out the Geissele Reaction rod. Great for installing barrels and nice for muzzle devices as you can leave the handguard and optic on. On sale sometimes for $80.

Heinous typos thanks to autocorrect.
Thanks but I have spent too much now !
 

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A piece of dampened leather and two small hardwood blocks will hold the barrel just fine. Just a couple pieces of scrap, no v notch necessary. Even plywood will work in a pinch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
re

A piece of dampened leather and two small hardwood blocks will hold the barrel just fine. Just a couple pieces of scrap, no v notch necessary. Even plywood will work in a pinch.
|

Thank you much
 

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Just use a magwell block with a wrench and turn counter clock wise. Put some tape around the muzzle device to protect the finish. If it doesn't want to turn, put some heat to it. I have this portable vice for working inside when my garage is too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
re

View attachment 14368

Just use a magwell block with a wrench and turn counter clock wise. Put some tape around the muzzle device to protect the finish. If it doesn't want to turn, put some heat to it. I have this portable vice for working inside when my garage is too hot.
I took my dremel tool with a sanding wheel and 2 pieces of 2x4 and sanded a round groove in the blocks and then putt the blocks and barrel in a vice and the barrel still wants to turn in the blocks without the comp budging,I guess I could put a piece of 400 grit paper in there but afraid that would not do much for the finish on the barrel !
I suppose I could take a dremel and a cut off wheel and try to cut the crush washer off but one slip and I either cut into the comp or the barrel !
 

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I took my dremel tool with a sanding wheel and 2 pieces of 2x4 and sanded a round groove in the blocks and then putt the blocks and barrel in a vice and the barrel still wants to turn in the blocks without the comp budging,I guess I could put a piece of 400 grit paper in there but afraid that would not do much for the finish on the barrel !
I suppose I could take a dremel and a cut off wheel and try to cut the crush washer off but one slip and I either cut into the comp or the barrel !
Head to your local sporting goods store and get some friction tape. Wrap the barrel tightly with one layer (no overlap), clamp it in the wooden blocks and try again.
 

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Send an e-mail to Brett, and ask what he recommends. Why would you spend the money for a quality upper, and then try to take it apart without asking the expert, who built it, for his recommendation ???
 

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Do not use a clam shell upper clamp.
This holds the upper but the only thing stopping the barrel from twisting is the barrel index pin.
Which can shear off.
Folks do this and get away with it but it is not a good practice.
The clam shell clamp works great when installing a barrel or hand guard but should never be use for working on a muzzle device.
You should never use a mag well block for the same reason.
I have seen where someone used a mag well block to torque a barrel and broke the mag well.

The 2 choices are a Geissele action rod or clamping the barrel in a vise.
With the action rod you do not have to remove the hand guard if the hand guard covers to much of the barrel to clamp it in a vise.

I use nylon vise jaw covers.
Such as these (the ones I really use)
http://www.amazon.com/Bessey-BV-NVJ...bessey vise&qid=1460897312&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Or these
http://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Multipu..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=19F43S99FJF6R4J0XFXA
Remove the hand guard, clamp the barrel tightly in the vise and use the proper tool to remove and reinstall the muzzle device or in your case thread protector.
Make sure you re-torque the hand guard retaining screws to the recommended torque when reinstalling if removed.
If you end up reinstalling the comp at some point make sure you do not over tighten it as this can cause accuracy issues in some cases.
Also make sure you use a new crush washer when re-clocking the comp which should prevent over tightening.
Harrison recommends YHM crush washers for this.

You can make your own vise set up with wood or wood and leather. For me these vise jaw covers come in handy for many gunsmithing uses.
 

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I took my dremel tool with a sanding wheel and 2 pieces of 2x4 and sanded a round groove in the blocks and then putt the blocks and barrel in a vice and the barrel still wants to turn in the blocks without the comp budging,I guess I could put a piece of 400 grit paper in there but afraid that would not do much for the finish on the barrel !
I suppose I could take a dremel and a cut off wheel and try to cut the crush washer off but one slip and I either cut into the comp or the barrel !
Like I said the first time you have to use rosin for I to maintain a grip, if it still won't move a slight amount of heat may be needed if it has a thread locking compound on it.
Just what ever you do resist the urge to to cut things apparent.
 

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So I've never used a reaction rod but my understanding is it holds the upper by the extension lugs. Which means you can loosen or tighten the extension on the barrel by turning the muzzle device. If that's the case DO NOT DO THIS!

I concur don't use a clam shell or anything that holds the upper by the receiver (upper or lower).

Use a barrel vice or a set of V notched blocks made to hold a barrel. Or pay a qualified gunsmith.


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I also use No Mar's polymer barrel vice on 5.56 and .308 barrels. It works well if your worried about shearing the barrel pin. But I prefer No Mar's polymer action block for attaching the barrel to the upper. I guess the barrel pen could shear off. If they are too tight, I heat them up which really helps to loosen them up. When I install barrel or muzzle devices, I try not torque to an excessive amount. I always have spare barrels nuts on hand for barrels and use Accu Washers for muzzle devices.

http://www.amazon.com/NO-M-A-R-Purp...img_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=00QH43C2T099BNQQWE7P#Ask
 

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I also use No Mar's polymer barrel vice on 5.56 and .308 barrels. It works well if your worried about shearing the barrel pin. But I prefer No Mar's polymer action block for attaching the barrel to the upper. I guess the barrel pen could shear off. If they are too tight, I heat them up which really helps to loosen them up. When I install barrel or muzzle devices, I try not torque to an excessive amount. I always have spare barrels nuts on hand for barrels and use Accu Washers for muzzle devices.

http://www.amazon.com/NO-M-A-R-Purp...img_6?ie=UTF8&refRID=00QH43C2T099BNQQWE7P#Ask
I think you're confused. No one is talking about removing a barrel nut. He wants to remove the comp that is on with a crush washer.
 

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Personally I would leave the vortex comp on the barrel. Taking it of because you want it to be "quieter" is pretty much a moot point IMO because I don't think you'll be able to tell the difference by ear.


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I think you're confused. No one is talking about removing a barrel nut. He wants to remove the comp that is on with a crush washer.
Yes. I had suggest prior to your post to use a magwell block for taking the comp off. I've use all three methods to stabilize the barrel (ie: barrel vice, upper receiver action block and a magwell block) when removing either a muzzle device or a barrel nut and depending on how tight they were installed. It's been my experience muzzle devices aren't usually install too tight. I only needed to pull out barrel vice once when trying to remove a PRI Quiet Brake that I had installed on a barrel trying to get it to index. Had to put some heat to it as well.

I would keep the Vortex Comp on the barrel. Nice brake. But they are a little long. I used one on my 270AR.
 

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Don't use a Magwell or receiver clamp to remove it. Because if it's the random time it twists something it'll be because
It was done wrong.


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