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Had the WalMart guy look at me funny when I only bought one box of 100 rounds of 22lr for my 80 year old barfly wingman buddy...there were two.

I am wondering how many are stocking up...more...ammo? If you can find.

Or who is reloading to beef up supply or just to stay busy?

What calibers are your choice.?
 

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Nah.
Got over 5K rounds of 22LR ammo.
Several hundred rounds for each AR except .308.
The AR10 is more desire than necessity. The oldest and me are the only ones who want to hang onto it. That 11 pound boat anchor will stay.
Got plenty 16 ga ammo.
I normally check ammo wherever I go. If I find a good deal, I'll grab some. If not, meh.....
6.8mm
5.56/.223
16 ga
12 ga
.40 S&W
.308 if it's a good deal
 

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Am I reloading more or stocking up on factory ammo? YES!! No reason to choose between the two strategies. Do both!!
 

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The 45 acp 550b with case feed and bullet feed is never swapped or even adjusted just run weekly to keep up with needs as have a 60 foot indoor range at work and 75 yards in back yard so getting plenty of trigger time. Have five Square Deal Bs for moderatley/high run handgun cartridges and my other progressive rifle presses are in mid run of 20,000 once fired Lake City 5.56 cases bought at a deal, stainless pin tumbled, roll processed and trimmed to length. Puchased 5,000 once fired Lake City 7.62×51 cases from same vendor running on other 550s. That said I pulled three 500 count packages of 6.8 pulled and primed cases, bumped shoulders/ensured necks consistent then stuffed 1,000 with 115 grain Gold Dots and 500 with 110 grain Accubonds. Didn't need them but have more time in hands lately so making best use of it to load as much as can. Also had this just ship which I didn't need and seldom buy 6.8 factory loaded except in small lots just for testing so know which I like if ever need factory ammo. This was too cheap to pass up.

Ammo in background is oddball stuff piled up on bench at work that needs to be brought home and put in lockers when not too lazy.
 

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Am I reloading more or stocking up on factory ammo? YES!! No reason to choose between the two strategies. Do both!!
Folks that are not "stockpiling" ammo and reloading components need to read H.R. 5717 as has been floated every session of the House of Representatives for several years back to Obama administration. Take special notice on the tax section. It also bans all 80% builds and if passed will have to buy lowers that have 30% tax added. Ammo is tagged for a 50% tax. This bill is written to make it almost impossible for most to shoot volume unless burn a lot of cash doing it. Will also increase price of guns and builds.

FROM H.R. 5717
"SEC. 4181. IMPOSITION OF TAX.

“There is hereby imposed upon the sale by the manufacturer, producer, or importer of the following articles a tax equivalent to the specified percent of the price for which so sold:

“(1) Articles taxable at 30 percent:

“(A) Pistols.

“(B) Revolvers.

“(C) Firearms (other than pistols and revolvers).

“(D) Any lower frame or receiver for a firearm, whether for a semiautomatic pistol, rifle, or shotgun that is designed to accommodate interchangeable upper receivers.

“(2) Articles taxable at 50 percent: Shells and cartridges.”.

https://www.congress.gov/bill/116th-congress/house-bill/5717/text

Suggest all read it and not be overly surprised if the Demo try to attach it to a stimulus package since it has yet to get traction just as the "New Green Deal". They are going to use Chinese Flu stimulus to try and sneak through everything they have been unsuccessful with in past. How will a couple thousand mixed rounds keep all your toys fed if suddenly ammo tax jumps to 50%. WhIle this Bill has not seen any significant support from conservativeschool if not snuck in another Bill when Dems win back the White House and one side of Legislative Branch it will get passed in some form. Just look at how many subsections it has if do not have the patience to read it all.

I am 57 years old and goal is to have enough ammo and reloading components stockpiled to keep me shooting my normal rate of consumption to age 80 then half that from 80 to 90 and then rim fire plus 22 Hornet from 90 till death. Had a good friend recently pass at age 96 who was shooting his Hornets almost daily from age 88 till got real sick at 95. Last couple years he shot I would carry his rifles, front rest, sand bag and ammo along with retrieve targets. He was still shooting sub 1/2 MOA his last trip to the range. Hope I will be similar but when retire and living on fixed income if ammo price doubles would have to really cut back if not already stocked while earning an income. I had to keep him in powder and projectiles during Sandy Hook as his income would not pay panic prices for reloading components.
 

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Had a .22 Hornet for a long time. That rifle took a wider variety of game than any other firearm I owned. (deer, turkeys, feral pigs, coyotes, bobcats, squirrel, vermin of all sorts, snakes, skunks, coons, possum, armadillos)
Problem was, it was finicky.
I've made improbable shots at 150 yards and missed "gimme's" at much shorter ranges.
I just loved the little rifle so much I hated to sell it.
It finally got the best of me and I sent it "down the road".
Now I'm in the market for another .22 Hornet with the Ruger M7722 Hornet at the top of the list.
If I may be so bold, what Hornet rifles was your friend shooting?
 

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Handload ammo, yes. I don't buy factory ammo. I don't see the gain to paying much more for factory stuff when you can load cheaper and for better accuracy for a specific rifle. Even if you only load to SAAMI specs just save money, you are ahead. To me, stockpiling reloading components makes a lot more sense, especially given the prices on 6.8 ammo that I have seen. YMMV.
 

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Bebe,
Have four 22 Hornets in SAAMI cartridge specs (two bolt action five shot, two bolt action single shots), two 22 Hornet Ackley Improved, two 22 K-Hornets and two Rossi Raging Hornet wheel guns. Love all of them, the Ackley Improved and K-Hornets are a mix of semi custom and full customs and the two of SAAMI standards are stock withat other pair semi custom. All have minimum of 3-12x scopes up to 12-36x on the one that shoots the best. All are 3/4 MOA at 100 with the nicer ones shooting 1/4" to 3/8" if not windy. Have taken more deer with 22 Hornet than most will ever kill using any rifle.

Have a horrible deer problem around here to point of being worse than ground hogs, squirrel and coyote. See deer run over in road every single day on way to or home from work, as many as six to eight in yard at a time and their eating all the shrubs and flowers not to mention neighbors gardens. Had two hit my truck, not me hit them with truck but as left before sunrise on Easter. As shifted from first into second one ran into drivers side rear view mirror and other ran into passenger side rear quarter panel. Wife and I have hit four in past ten years and neighbors hit them regularly. Have a permit to shoot any deer on my property as do neighbors year round. From two year old doe to six/eight point buck put one shot in their ear, they drop like struck by lightning in their tracks. All damage seen is trickle of blood out their ear and about 1/3 their eyes pop out of the sockets.

Absolutely love my Raging Hornet wheel guns, eight shots, dual cylinder locks for solid lockup and perfectly timed by a man who was considered the best wheel gun smith on the east coast before he retired. 10" barrels with 4x scope on one and 1-6x BDC scope on the other. They are great for carrying in the truck and popping varmints out to 100 yards. With my Ackley Improved and K-Hornet rifles 200 yard coyotes and ground hogs are not umcommon.
Rlandry,
I buy a lot of Smith M&P 15s, DPMS Oracles in both AR 15 and AR 10 plus other factory ARs when find deals where dealers are motivated to sell six to twelve at a time. At one time I was buying SKSs for $79 with 600 rounds of ammo, SKS-Ms for $99 with 600 rounds and AKs for $129 with 600 rounds. This was late 80s, early 90s and all ammo was steel core which still have. During panics like Sandy Hook and others panic buyers could not find a rifle, ammo and magazines. I left home every day with a rifle, 500 to 600 rounds for it and three magazines and always kept three to five bricks of 22LR in truck. Sold many rifles in gun shop parking lot for stupid money because shop had none or ammo. Would have all buyers go in LGS and pay their fee to do a 4473 and background check so transfer went on their books.

Having factory ammo and spare magazines almost doube the value of a rifle during panics. When prices were so low on Chinese SKSs and AKS purchased two SKSS and two AKS per month, (one every Friday) for almost two years. Had to buy commercial job boxes to store them had so many couldn't put in vaults. Still have a couple dozen of the previous ban AKs to sell in ban states during panics and more SKS-Ms which NIB are bringing $1,000 each due to how rare they are. I buy when cheap and flip during every panic. The weekend bumpstocks went to $900 on gunbroker and they locked all auctions sold ten for $500 each locally and within a month were back down to $99 each but reinvested all that cash into a power buy on binary triggers. I have to make my hobby somewhat self supporting to play as hard as I like.
 

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@hueyville,
Sounds like you're talking high dollar, custom stuff.
I'm looking at a factory, shelf gun.
Ergo, the Ruger M7722 Hornet.
...but thanks!
 

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All my reloading gear is boxed up in the garage still. I still have the urge to buy more ammo but I have just enough to get by for awhile. Hopefully availability will eventually improve and we will see sales again, at which time I will buy some more.
 

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The laws of physics does not apply here. What goes up will probably not come down. The exception may be a few cents "rollback" at Walmart. When was the last time you saw any significant price reduction after a major rise?
 

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I just don't stop reloading no matter what the climate of commerce/panic is. I have enough supplies that I have laid in to run a long long time. Got two cases of 22 about 20 years ago and still haven't cracked the seals on those. I pick stuff up all the time with Nosler blems and overruns getting a lot of attention. A sleeve of 5,000 primers gets bought periodically so I always have 25-3,000 on the shelf in various flavors.

Greg
 

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I recently bought some factory ammo, but I'm currently reloading some batches of 30.06, 45acp, and 6.8spc.

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
 

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@hueyville, Sounds like you're talking high dollar, custom stuff. I'm looking at a factory, shelf gun. Ergo, the Ruger M7722 Hornet. ...but thanks!
If you want the ultimate 22 Hornet off the shelf at a bargain then the Savage M40 single shot with Accutrigger may be your baby boom stick. Have purchased two lightly used and before any modifications took to range using my "official test scope". All rifles from 10/22 off shelf, 10/22 full custom builds, AR builds, off rack bolt rifles to 338 Lapua Mag are test fired first time with a 12-36x FFP side focus scope that is from a short lived scope company that only makes reticles for many top line scope companies now. Assembled in Japan using Japanese glass to U.S. makers engineering specs including glass from the same vendor Nightforce, Steiner and Leupold uses in entry level to mid/high level scopes (Leupold uses same Japanese glass in Mk 5 series scopes).

From https://www.ballisticmag.com/2018/08/22/choosing-riflescopes-differences/
"Clear Riflescopes
"Scopes I consider “clear” comprise the most popular and increasingly available category. Starting in the $750 range going up to $2,000, they are amongst the best buys in the market today. Most are made in Japan at a couple of the same factories, meaning the glass is the same. Differences lie in coatings and the housing specs or features.
At the upper end, the glass is excellent — better than most will ever need. Clarity is excellent and reticles are usable with some of the most popular available. Controls tend to be stronger, more precise, repeatable and reliable.

Leupold’s VX line is a perfect example of “clear.” Starting with the VX-R, you get a ton of scope for the money. Move to the VX-3 line and you get a feature-rich riflescope with excellent glass. At the top of this category is the VX5 HD, suitable for most any hunting, sporting or duty application.

Nightforce’s NSX line is at the top of this category offering some of the best scopes out there in this price range. Steiner’s hunting series is another excellent choice, as are the Bushnell Forge and some of theElite Tactical line. Something in this line will satisfy the needs of most shooters, no matter the task, and is the fastest growing segment of riflescopes today.

Clearest Riflescopes

The “clearest” scopes represent the pinnacle of optics clarity. They start at a little more than $2,000 and can reach well beyond $4,000. At the low-to-middle end are the best scopes using Japanese glass like the Nightforce ATACR, Steiner M-Series, Bushnell Elite Pro and Leupold Mark 5HD line. Schmidt Bender, Hensoldt, Zeis and the Leupold Mark 8 are at the very top end."


People often give me odd looks sitting over an 8.5" to 11.5" AR 15 pistol build with 12-36x scope nailed on top but before it's pulled and install a red dot or other optic. I know the guns inherent accuracy which sometimes changes planned optics choice. Purchased four 12.5" 5.56 barrels as part of a bulk barrel buy when a well known barrel maker was doing a website change and wanted to clear out a lot of barrels had low inventory on and not going to offer anymore. Have a couple companies like this where have a flat price per tube price if take everything they want to dump whether two or two dozen barrels. Built a pair of the 12.5" 5.56 1:7 barrels with 3.75" pinned flash can using a crush washer to index before pinning to get 16.15" from bolt face to end of device. Was stunned when both the 12.5" barrels shot 1/2" to 5/8" at 100 using Tubbs 69 grain SMK DTAC ammo which is my 5.56 "benchmark" test ammo as shoots good in any 1:7 to 1:9 twist 5.56. Both rifles were getting 1x red dots but when saw how accurate they each got 1-6x BDC scopes with 1x red dots in PEPR mount.



Both of the sub $400 used Savage M40s shot sub MOA unmodified with two factory ammo choices using the test scope. One I tuned myself by polishing the three position "sliding sear" that the Accutrigger uses and ensuring all engagement points were square. Unsure if rifle shipped with the stock or varmint spring, installed a $5 varmint spring from Gun Shack, carefully adjusted trigger pull screw till had nine ounce crisp pull. No hammer fall tapping butt on floor or tapping with rubber hammer plus 100% reliable ignition of primers for five bucks and an hours time. Pillar bedded the action, properly floated the barrel (Savage does not always properly relieve the channel and barrel touches where supposed to be floated), added a controlled pressure point just in front of chamber and called it done. All else is factory and shoots 1/2 MOA five shot groups consistently if not windy.


The other sent to my rifle smith who did trigger job (set at six ounces for bench use predominately), bedding, proper floating of barrel and all the normal tasks a rack grade bolt rifle usually needs out of the box. He also removed barrel, shaved about a quarter inch off the rear so had room to cut chamber/throat in crisp rifling and rechambered in K Hornet then hand throated to his preferred amount of freebore, cryotreated then refinished and reassembled. Rifle had all factory parts used except for a single spring but was totally disassembled, all parts hand fit, some modified and it shoots better than I can. My smith has some more than decade old bench rest records that still stand and he can shoot 10 round groups with the little K Hornet in the 1/4" to 3/8" range. If I shoot five shot groups can hover in that range but will open them up to 3/8" to 5/8" when try to run ten round groups.

Half my "custom" bolt rifles are all factory parts including barrels that my smith shaves rear, cuts a proper chamber, puts a proper crown and tunes barrel harmonics by using different choices of his proprietary brakes till finds brake that helps barrel be totally still as projectile clears rifling. Have taken him rifles that would barely shoot two inches at 100 yards and ask for custom barrel to which he inspects and says it just needs a proper chamber, crown, harmonics tuned along with the standard bedding and float, not a barrel. Saves me a lot of money when get a custom rifle back and paid for nothing for parts except maybe a few springs, maybe a better extractor/ejector, muzzle brake and it shoots better than I am capable in field, just the labor and machining to disassemble and properly hand fit every piece.

Most of us can learn to float, bed and swap some springs to greatly improve anything from a 10/22 to magnum bolt rifle. That said for most, an off the rack Savage M40 22 Hornet with decent glass should be all the Hornet a person needs but inspect for a binding action or barrel in stock which can fix with piece of sandpaper.
 

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I will get into reloading after the divorce is done. I will have some more space. I will only be doing it to save some cost.
 

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I haven’t purchased factory ammo , except for .22 short/lr, in a long time.

I have been loading more lately though. I got furloughed from my job so i sit at my bench a little more these days.

So far I’ve made batches of : 25-06, .270 Winchester, 10mm, 308 Winchester, 8mm Mauser is going to be done this evening.

I’m going to spend some quality time with my tractor today.


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Spent all day yesterday with five furnaces (two Lyman Mag 20s, one Mag 25 and two Lee 20-4 bottom pour) and several hot plates running to preheat everything from Linotype, wheel weight ingot, dirty buckets of wheel weights than have been gathering plus some range lead and more. Had several hundred pounds of lead already alloyed with buckets, boxes and piles under casting bench to alloy.Wife amd I have been doimg a big Chinese Flu/spring cleaning into areas of home and work that have been piling up for a couple or three years. Have found hundreds of pounds of Linotype, wheel weight ingots and other alloys purchased over at casboolits.com. Much of it in unopened USPS flatflat rate boxes that made it in door of garage and piled in easiest area to let drop. Also had piles, buckets and crates of everything from soft lead to mystery lead lurking in scap metal areas at work. Just got home and have it all warming up again

Been running one of the Lee pots for soft lead (8 BHN) and other for Monotype (28 BHN), Lyman pots are for wheel weight (13 BHN), Lyman #2 (16 BHN) and Linotype (22 BHN) alloys. Soft lead is for casting cores for bullet swaging and hollow points. Monotype is my hardest and used for rifle boolits that will be lubed and gas checks added in standard lubrisizers. (Have a bench usually has nine lubrisizers but pulled two to squeeze in an extra Dillon Square Deal B that wouldn't fit on my progressive benches) Cast more wheel weight alloy than any other which feeds all my 45s with 200 grain SWCs, 357 autos/380/9mm/40/10mm with truncated cones, target/mid velocity wheel guns with wad cutters and semi wad cutters. The Lyman #2 is for magnum pistols and rifles such as 7.62×39 which will see a gas check plus lube and run into traps. Linotype and Monotype is for rifle boolits that may get standard lube or powder coat and run at higher velocities.

Now making a hybrid bullet that rather than a dozen steps of drawing out jackets, forming cores, plus steps to start cores into shape, swage into jackets and final shape to make a nice jacketed bullet use a combination of casting and swaging. Cast a rifle (or pistol) boolit in mold as close to final shape as possible, powder coat which the heating process tempers the alloy some in heating, then use a single swage die to mash the projectile into a perfectly round and straight bullet with gas check nearly welded to the bullet. Have been pushing these as fast as 2,600 to 2,800 fps and cost nearly nothing as have gas check making dies, get left over lots of custom color powder coat from a vendor near me that was throwing away any left over custom mixed powder because took too much room and effort to store it. These bullets are so consistent shoot 1.5 MOA and under while cost a couple cents each to make and are not 1/10th as labor intensive as swaging. Really no more effort than cast since they have to be sized and lubed.



Had quite a bit of ingots alloyed before took day yesterday to try and process as much of the pile have been finding in the organization effort and with what got done yesterday am well over 700 pounds of ingots alloyed and ready to keep feeding in the pots as cast. Hope to get another 200 to 300 pounds done this evening to have over a half ton of lead ready to run. Have not even cleaned out traps at work and house. They will have 60% to 70% wheel weight alloy mixed with factory bullet lead where friends use their own ammo and I shoot some occasional factory, some Linotype which is what I cast 160 grain 7.62×39 cast gas check bullets which is the highest power ammo can shoot into my traps without damaging strike plates.

After see how much am able to process today, if rain keeps up may clean out traps tomorrow. Trap scrap is always clean and easy to alloy into 13 BHN wheel weight alloy by dropping in a little Linotype if soft or pure lead if hard. As get a pot full, at proper temperature, fluxed and clean drop several mold loads of air cool boolits and several molds of water quench and let get to room temperature so can test each for hardness. Based on fact some will get harder over a couple weeks as temper or softer based on method cast and alloy can refer to notes from over three decades of this and make a little modification to end up with ingots generally within 1 BHN of actual desired hardness of final cast. Ingots harden differently than bullets due to size so have to drop boolits to test each pot.

PPour just about half or tad more of each pot into ingots then refill and test. By running five furnaces, preheating different material on hot plates can keep good work flow going. When get a pot finished will keep a sample of cast bullets with each group of ingots so after it sits and normalizes can retest the bullet hardness and know what all will drop so able to load pots with correct ingots and maybe drop one harder or softer ingot per pot to dial it to perfect target hardness. Sounds like a lot of effort and micro management but really is not hard running so many pots and know a bullet I cast a decade ago is going to perform same as bullet cast this year or a decade from now.

I generally keep about a decades back stock of powder and primers so what I am loading today is based on decade or more price and powder/primers buying now won't be up in rotation for at least ten years or more. For major power factor 45 acp it costs me less than a nickel per round and 38 spc/9mm costs about three cents per round not figuring in labor as 70% of total lead s recycled as well as brass now. Wife does most of her rifle training with 7.62×39 because she is cheap and knows gas checks are punched for free out of soda cans, most lead is recycled as she shoots into traps or our berms that I can recover most lead from as well just using a box with metal mesh. Reload a lot of copper washed steel case 7.62×39 get for free from friend at indoor range (only shoot steel cases in AKs and SKSs if it's good copper washed steel, not any of the poly coatings) so only cost is primers and powder bought a decade ago or more. Until run out of the huge stockpile of Berdan primers paid almost nothing for before Obama placed the boycott that stopped import of Russian primers my guess is wife will shoot half of her rifle training with one of a matched pair of semi custom SKSs with massaged Tapco triggers, 20 round steel box magazines, nice recoil pads, tritium sights and nice muzzle brakes.

She knows the ×39 cost less to load than the rim fire we use as refuse to shoot cheap Thundercrap and similar price rim fire through my nice 22s. Why put 4 cent per round cap down my bores when can shoot entry level match ammo for 7 cents. She knows the ×39 costs about same to load as our rim fire (I do stockpile cheap rim fire to sell during Sandy Hook type panics) so she shoots roughly 1/2 ×39, 1/4 22 LR and 1/4 5.56 handloads. She shoots just enough 6.8 to stay familiar with her truck gun but knows 6.8 burns 30% more powder than 5.56 so will train more with 5.56 when using AR 15s. I like to burn good ammo though nice rifles so guess it's good she s cheap. I do really like shooting cast through 458 SOCOM these days which is dirt cheap AR fodder. Need to get to the pots as all seem to be coming up to full temperature.
 

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Hueyville, seemed like I seen the FNH 14.7” 6.8 barrels awhile back. Trying to remember where. How good do they a shoot? I would liked to had picked up one. So far got two I have to put together a 18” 5r arp barrel setup and a 12.5” 5r sbr setup. I had gotten a few bolts awhile back and carriers but really thinking about building one or two more. A 20” triad I still want to build but last time I checked was out and was ready to buy. A 14.5”/16” I’m still thinking about and also a 10.5” sbr. One more be enough but may do 2. Just for heck of it. Could turn into 3 lol. But doubt 3. Of these 3 considering what I got what would you pick based on your experience with all the ones you have owned. I will be using arp barrels I think. Your opinion? I still need 15rd pri mags and ammo lol. Did buy dies recently.
 

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I decided to build a pair of 6.8 ARS which has now turned into 25 ARs, four Mini 14s, two Hawkeyes and one Remington Police Tactial. Sad thing is have over a dozen 6.8 barrels in the parts locker and am always looking for more. The 14.7" FNH USA 6.8 CHF barrels were the very first 6.8 barrels I ever bought and were such a bargain purchased six intending to possibly resell some but have now built four and only reason the last pair has not been built is other projects eating my time. It's hard for me to recommend just one barrel as I have different goals thus need different tunes to meet them.

The best shooting 6.8 barrel I have dollar for dollar is an 18" ARP 5R which has dozens of first round cold bore varmint kills in the 375 to 425 yard range. It is more consistent from cold bore to warm than my 20" ARP 3R. Have three 16" ARP barrels and all have night vision mounted, one has an ATN Day/Night I.R. 3-14x, another an ATN Gen 2+ CGT 4x and other has an ATN Thor Thermal. Just finished a pair of 13.7" Noveske barrels with Noveske Flaming Pig flash cans that pin to a 16.1" bolt face to end of device barrel and are 1 MOA compact rifles that direct noise and blast away from operator.

Have eight of ten 6.8 Noveske barrels built with my favorite being an 18" used to do a 6.8 Mk 12 Mod H clone. Have three 10.5" piston drive pistols, two Noveske and one ARP that make great "truck guns" to carry when travelling as pistols loaded in vehicle under reciprocal rights of my CCW. My most accurate off the bench 6.8 is a 20" White Oak Varmint tube with a Bison 20" Varmint close but the Bison was profiled for them by White Oak and had an issue with it and sent it to White Oak who fixed it. Bison installed the extensions and the index pin on my Bison snapped before torque wrench hit 20 ft/lbs which was odd.

If I were going in harms way with a 6.8 it would be built on a Noveske barrel, if building it for most accuracy would use a White Oak and if wanted the best barrel at best price it would be ARP. Have 6.8s in 8.5", 10.5", 11.5", 12.5", 13.7", 14.7", 16", 18", 20", 22" and 24". 10.5", 14.7" and 18" are my favorite lengths. 8.5" and 16" are least favorite lengths. 16" barrel length only reason for popularity is BATF arbitrary decision to make that the legal shortest length that do not have to pin a device, register as an SBR or build as a pistol. Have an 11.5" with pinned suppressor for a one stamp "SBR" which avoids having to pay a tax stamp on both the can and the lower. Luckily I have an understanding wife with an addiction to Harley Davidson motorcycles who understands my obsession with guns. Currently my favorite toy is an AR 10 in 6.5 PRC.
 

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I decided to build a pair of 6.8 ARS which has now turned into 25 ARs, four Mini 14s, two Hawkeyes and one Remington Police Tactial. Sad thing is have over a dozen 6.8 barrels in the parts locker and am always looking for more. The 14.7" FNH USA 6.8 CHF barrels were the very first 6.8 barrels I ever bought and were such a bargain purchased six intending to possibly resell some but have now built four and only reason the last pair has not been built is other projects eating my time. It's hard for me to recommend just one barrel as I have different goals thus need different tunes to meet them.

The best shooting 6.8 barrel I have dollar for dollar is an 18" ARP 5R which has dozens of first round cold bore varmint kills in the 375 to 425 yard range. It is more consistent from cold bore to warm than my 20" ARP 3R. Have three 16" ARP barrels and all have night vision mounted, one has an ATN Day/Night I.R. 3-14x, another an ATN Gen 2+ CGT 4x and other has an ATN Thor Thermal. Just finished a pair of 13.7" Noveske barrels with Noveske Flaming Pig flash cans that pin to a 16.1" bolt face to end of device barrel and are 1 MOA compact rifles that direct noise and blast away from operator.

Have eight of ten 6.8 Noveske barrels built with my favorite being an 18" used to do a 6.8 Mk 12 Mod H clone. Have three 10.5" piston drive pistols, two Noveske and one ARP that make great "truck guns" to carry when travelling as pistols loaded in vehicle under reciprocal rights of my CCW. My most accurate off the bench 6.8 is a 20" White Oak Varmint tube with a Bison 20" Varmint close but the Bison was profiled for them by White Oak and had an issue with it and sent it to White Oak who fixed it. Bison installed the extensions and the index pin on my Bison snapped before torque wrench hit 20 ft/lbs which was odd.

If I were going in harms way with a 6.8 it would be built on a Noveske barrel, if building it for most accuracy would use a White Oak and if wanted the best barrel at best price it would be ARP. Have 6.8s in 8.5", 10.5", 11.5", 12.5", 13.7", 14.7", 16", 18", 20", 22" and 24". 10.5", 14.7" and 18" are my favorite lengths. 8.5" and 16" are least favorite lengths. 16" barrel length only reason for popularity is BATF arbitrary decision to make that the legal shortest length that do not have to pin a device, register as an SBR or build as a pistol. Have an 11.5" with pinned suppressor for a one stamp "SBR" which avoids having to pay a tax stamp on both the can and the lower. Luckily I have an understanding wife with an addiction to Harley Davidson motorcycles who understands my obsession with guns. Currently my favorite toy is an AR 10 in 6.5 PRC.
Wow, you've got the 6.8 bug real bad! 😊

I have a 6.8 14.7" FNH barrel I picked up from PSA years ago in a build kit. It was the first AR I put together and the upper was already assembled. I want to build another 6.8 for my son and read your experience above with the ARP 5R vs 3R barrel. I was thinking about a 3R because we have to use monolythic bullets for hunting here in CA and the 3R is suppose to have less engraving force on the projectile. Have you used monolythic bullets in both barrels to form any opinion on preference for accuracy?
 
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