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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok honestly, I didn't know where to put this so I figure this might be a good fit.

The wife and I was talking last night and we came to the topic of ammo.

Currently all 68 ammo around me is price reasonable for the most part. But none of the 10-14$ a box stuff.

I told her that I would have to order online and to make it a decent deal I would have to buy a pretty good amount each time.

My LGSs have all the reloading stuff minus brass and I was thinking. Instead of spending 20$+ on a box of ammo or 60 or more plus shipping on ammo I would start stocking up on reloading supplies for it.

Since I have really come to like the 120gr SST and even more since one of my LGS have them for 26ish plus tax for a hundred, I can spread the cost out.


So currently, would it be better to just stock up on reloading supplies versus factory load ammo? Don't get me wrong I snatch up a box or 2 of factory stuff if I am feeling froggy but for the most part I feel like stocking reloading supplies may be the better route.


Yalls thoughts?
 

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LOL, let me help you spend all your cash! i do both, i order bulk on line ammo and reloading supplies online as well. but i'm likely clinically impulse/obsessive driven. but with the price of top end hunting ammo reloading makes sense, but it can get pricey quickly. first 308 round i reloaded i could sell for a grand and break even, but every time you pull the lever the cost per round decreases
 

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Reload and cherry pick ammo when you see
a great deal. Every time you see reloading
Supplies stock up on them as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
LOL, let me help you spend all your cash! i do both, i order bulk on line ammo and reloading supplies online as well. but i'm likely clinically impulse/obsessive driven. but with the price of top end hunting ammo reloading makes sense, but it can get pricey quickly. first 308 round i reloaded i could sell for a grand and break even, but every time you pull the lever the cost per round decreases
You know when I was reloading 223/556 and 308, I did both just because. Well I was saving money on my 168 and 175gr loads lol. But I think it would be a different story if they ( LGS) wasn't trying to sell the red box 68 ammo for 15-20 a box it might be a different story. But paying for factory 120gr Hornady factory stuff is going to drive me up the wall, when I can save on buying the components lol. and being the way I am I don't want the Remington LRP brass. I am currently sitting on just 110gr AB and 120SSt projectiles. So to keep everything simple I plan on sticking with the 120gr SST and the 110AB when I can find them.

Reload and cherry pick ammo when you see
a great deal. Every time you see reloading
Supplies stock up on them as well.
Yep pretty much what I want and going to do lol. Just making sure I wasn't going about this the wrong way
 

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Besides the cost of factory ammo I enjoy reloading. When I go across the country to balloon events I pick up powders without hazmat charges that are not available in my area. This gives me some a chance to get off the major roads and visit shops I would not get to see usually. I now have a pretty good supply but always need more powder.
 

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As I tell all potential new reloaders. The investment of money and time to get up and running is large. You will find that you end up shooting more for the same amount of money you saved buying factory.

Reloading is a hobby and should be treated as such. If you want ammo that is faster and more accurate then get into reloading, do not get into reloading just to save money when added up you end up spending more and have to reload for many years to recoup your investment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Besides the cost of factory ammo I enjoy reloading. When I go across the country to balloon events I pick up powders without hazmat charges that are not available in my area. This gives me some a chance to get off the major roads and visit shops I would not get to see usually. I now have a pretty good supply but always need more powder.
Yea one of these days I will make a bulk powder purchase.

As I tell all potential new reloaders. The investment of money and time to get up and running is large. You will find that you end up shooting more for the same amount of money you saved buying factory.

Reloading is a hobby and should be treated as such. If you want ammo that is faster and more accurate then get into reloading, do not get into reloading just to save money when added up you end up spending more and have to reload for many years to recoup your investment.
I knew that when I started reloading back in early 2012 lol. Started on a Lee single stange ( still use for my rifle stuff), and now have a LnL AP for my pistol stuff. I actually enjoy reloading and my wife and kids help. My wife likes it just about as much as I do. But I need to get back into reloading.

But I know what I did wrong. I was factoring in short term reloading compared to buying factory ammo. Your post reminded me that the returns come down the road. Which they have for pistol. Not yet on rifle as I don't shoot that much currently
 

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I do both. I stock up on bargain priced factory ammo and then I use the brass to load my own to my specs. If it ever got to the point that I could not buy ammo I think I have enough on hand and enough reloading supplies to last me the rest of my life.
 

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I believe the benefit of reloading, beside the money, is that if you have a supply of XXX components for a load you can make that one up and go back next year with the same supplies and remake the same load. Let's get realistic in that factory ammunition while relatively consistent does vary from lot to lot and your rifle either loves that load or tolerates it. Feed it what it likes over and over again and when that barrel goes away buy another and repeat as above.

Taking a factory 204 load and shooting it in three rifles I got 1.2 MOA average. With my first equivalent loads using the same bullet they dropped down to 0.6 day in day out. Pretty much a no brainier for me. I agree with the above that a guy should reload and then pick up the "deal" he runs into for back fill inventory.

Greg
 

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reloading

I do both. I stock up on bargain priced factory ammo and then I use the brass to load my own to my specs. If it ever got to the point that I could not buy ammo I think I have enough on hand and enough reloading supplies to last me the rest of my life.
I agree with and do the same as Woodstock, you won't save money by buying components to start your ammo stash. You can get ammo to the door for .65 cents. (650ish per thousand) that would be S&B 110 gr. ball ammo. shoot it for your training and sustainment ammo and reload the brass for your precision shooting and hunting. However S&B PTS hunting ammo is VERY accurate, you won't go wrong with Hornady as they make some very accurate and top performing hunting ammo as well and great brass to reload.
 

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I agree with whats been said as well.

I don't think getting into reloading bottle neck rifle to save money is as big of a driving force as building loads for your particular barrel.
As well as using projectiles that are not offered from the factory.
Like the 95 TTSX at 2850 to 2900 fps from a 16in barrel.

Or in the case of my 5.56 loads the 70 TSX at 2900 fps from a 16in barrel or the 62 grain Fed Fusion pulls at 2925+ fps from a 16in barrel.
Neither of these are offered loaded to 5.56 specs.

So far for me reloading the 6.8 and 5.56 give the biggest rewards in performance and accuracy increase.

The one caveat to this for your needs is the 120 SST, many have trouble duplicating factory ammo speeds with this one particular projectile.
 

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!0 boxes from Selway ($17.75 each) shipped ~$14.75 = ~$19.21 per box. Sell brass ~$0.40 each ($8/box) or $11.21 net per box ammo.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
I do both. I stock up on bargain priced factory ammo and then I use the brass to load my own to my specs. If it ever got to the point that I could not buy ammo I think I have enough on hand and enough reloading supplies to last me the rest of my life.
I believe the benefit of reloading, beside the money, is that if you have a supply of XXX components for a load you can make that one up and go back next year with the same supplies and remake the same load. Let's get realistic in that factory ammunition while relatively consistent does vary from lot to lot and your rifle either loves that load or tolerates it. Feed it what it likes over and over again and when that barrel goes away buy another and repeat as above.

Taking a factory 204 load and shooting it in three rifles I got 1.2 MOA average. With my first equivalent loads using the same bullet they dropped down to 0.6 day in day out. Pretty much a no brainier for me. I agree with the above that a guy should reload and then pick up the "deal" he runs into for back fill inventory.

Greg
I agree with and do the same as Woodstock, you won't save money by buying components to start your ammo stash. You can get ammo to the door for .65 cents. (650ish per thousand) that would be S&B 110 gr. ball ammo. shoot it for your training and sustainment ammo and reload the brass for your precision shooting and hunting. However S&B PTS hunting ammo is VERY accurate, you won't go wrong with Hornady as they make some very accurate and top performing hunting ammo as well and great brass to reload.
I agree with whats been said as well.

I don't think getting into reloading bottle neck rifle to save money is as big of a driving force as building loads for your particular barrel.
As well as using projectiles that are not offered from the factory.
Like the 95 TTSX at 2850 to 2900 fps from a 16in barrel.

Or in the case of my 5.56 loads the 70 TSX at 2900 fps from a 16in barrel or the 62 grain Fed Fusion pulls at 2925+ fps from a 16in barrel.
Neither of these are offered loaded to 5.56 specs.

So far for me reloading the 6.8 and 5.56 give the biggest rewards in performance and accuracy increase.

The one caveat to this for your needs is the 120 SST, many have trouble duplicating factory ammo speeds with this one particular projectile.
Thanks gents. or all the kind words, advice, and insight.

I am at that point where I haven't reloaded in over a year and while I have a decent amount of everything I don't have a lot. So really I guess I was trying to decide if I should just focus on one or the other.

But light has been shed and I will continue doing what I did before hand. Which seems like what most of yall do and buy both, cause I have seen many just do one or the other.

Plus the wife is on me about not using my presses.

!0 boxes from Selway ($17.75 each) shipped ~$14.75 = ~$19.21 per box. Sell brass ~$0.40 each ($8/box) or $11.21 net per box ammo.
yea but buying back the brass when I already had it, just doesn't appeal to me lol.
 

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Ok honestly, I didn't know where to put this so I figure this might be a good fit.

The wife and I was talking last night and we came to the topic of ammo.

Currently all 68 ammo around me is price reasonable for the most part. But none of the 10-14$ a box stuff.

I told her that I would have to order online and to make it a decent deal I would have to buy a pretty good amount each time.

My LGSs have all the reloading stuff minus brass and I was thinking. Instead of spending 20$+ on a box of ammo or 60 or more plus shipping on ammo I would start stocking up on reloading supplies for it.

Since I have really come to like the 120gr SST and even more since one of my LGS have them for 26ish plus tax for a hundred, I can spread the cost out.

So currently, would it be better to just stock up on reloading supplies versus factory load ammo? Don't get me wrong I snatch up a box or 2 of factory stuff if I am feeling froggy but for the most part I feel like stocking reloading supplies may be the better route.

Yalls thoughts?
Stock up on reloading components and when you think you have enough, get more. It'll come out way cheaper in the end. After I made enough ammo to cover the cost of buying the press and dies, a box only runs me a few dollars no matter the caliber. I've seen spreadsheets where the average cost of reloading boxes of ammo is calculated per caliber. The cheapest for me to load is 9mm. I think it's only like $4 a box.
 

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I agree with whats been said as well.

I don't think getting into reloading bottle neck rifle to save money is as big of a driving force as building loads for your particular barrel.
As well as using projectiles that are not offered from the factory.
Like the 95 TTSX at 2850 to 2900 fps from a 16in barrel.

Or in the case of my 5.56 loads the 70 TSX at 2900 fps from a 16in barrel or the 62 grain Fed Fusion pulls at 2925+ fps from a 16in barrel.
Neither of these are offered loaded to 5.56 specs.

So far for me reloading the 6.8 and 5.56 give the biggest rewards in performance and accuracy increase.

The one caveat to this for your needs is the 120 SST, many have trouble duplicating factory ammo speeds with this one particular projectile.
How do you get those numbers? My 77 SMK loads are only averaging 2775 fps out of my 20" barrel.
 

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I primarily reload only, but I have bought factory ammo to replenish brass when virgin brass is scarce.
I cast most of my handgun bullets, so that adds to the list of components and equipment needed.
 

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Reload primarily for accuracy and cost. I run 9mm, 223/5.56, and 12ga store bought for plinking/practice/training/self defense.
Accuracy, use reloads. However, I'd have to admit I'm not good enough to shoot better than whatever store bought is most accurate in my firearm(s).
Hunting, use reloads for accuracy or patterns. It's satisfying for me to take game w/ ammo I made, especially in a firearm I've built or customized.
20ga, 357, 38, 380, 6.5, 6.8, 7mm, 308, etc, reload for cost and accuracy, and cause I like to do stuff

YMMV:)
 

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It depends.....

I load just about everything I shoot, but when it comes to certain handgun loads or AR loads for 6.8 and 556, it's simply not profitable to load your own due to the current cost of components. Since you say you like the 120SST, it's actually cheaper to buy factory and you will get higher velocity with the factory 120SST rounds. I've tried many different powders and the most velocity I can achieve with the 120 SST is 2500fps from my 18" ARP bbl. Anything more and gross pressure signs appear. The factory ammo averages 2590fps from the same bbl. Then there is accuracy, which is the only reason for me to load them. The Hornady factory 120SSTs provide 1-1.25" accuracy on average for me, with occasional groups slightly less. I can achieve sub moa accuracy handloading them, but at a lower MV. That said, I have to think logically in that 1.25 moa is more than good for the ranges I care to use the cartridge. Slightly better accuracy does nothing for sub 300yd big game hunting.

Here are the cost for you to ponder(This is a combination of local prices for me including tax as well as ordering from Midway):

Brass: .86ea
Bullet: .41ea
Powder: .13ea
Primer: .05ea

Cost per 100 rounds = $145

Factory 120 SST rounds per 100 delivered from SGA = $100.75

That does not take into account time spent at the bench/range nor cost of loading equipment.

In most carts the odds favor handloading as does performance, but that's not the case with many AR factory offerings. I buy .556 plinking ammo for the same reason, but I do load match ammo in .556 for both performance, cost, and accuracy.

loder
 

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I load for a broad range of cartridges. My base tools were paid for a decade ago . I cast my bullets.
Store bought. Reloads
45 Colts $32-38 /50. $6-6.40 /100
264 WM. $42-60 /20 $18-42/100 less for squirrel slayer 100 yd paper slayers.
380/9mm 14-22 /50. $5.20 100
38/357 12-25/50. $5.20-5.40 /100
6.8 12-27/20. $14 -37 /100
32 Remington unavailable. $ 16 /100. This has been seen at shows for just $4 a rd.

I know this isn't exactly what you were looking for, but it is a guideline.
Accuracy was brought up also . I had a rifle that in 1989 or 90 I ran $150 in factory ammo through and by 1995 had probably shot every available 06' load from 150 to 200 gr in every bullet shape . 8" was as good as it got but occasionally it would put 2-3 into 2" and 2-3 over 5-6" away at about 2".
I aquired 125 LC 43 M2. I'd go out and try some hand loads and shoot a few of those . Some days it would be great and other days all over . I eventually had a temper tantrum and burned through about 100 rd of 06 including the last 80 of the GI . (Insert enlightenment lightening bolt here) there were still flyers but there were 3 very distinct group of about 3" from the LC . Funny thing I weigh lotted by water weight and had a case weight that matched every flyer and group cores with outlayers . I was amazed . I took the biggest lot 31 cases and loaded 3 shot work ups from start to 75% of the load window . From no where the groups shrank from 8" to 3 touching and back up to 2" I went home filled them back up with the 1.5 outside to outside load and shot a 2.5 inch 10 shot group 3 times . I was in awe of my shooting and that the rifle would shoot after all that time chasing loads . Imagine a rifle touchy enough to show 1 gr of case weight in an 06' case , a.5% change . I also had 1 that didn't care what you fed it or what what brass it's in just run the load up to 75% of the window and move the scope 4-12 clicks . 2" FC Hy Shok ,Argentine 74' NATO doesn't care , so long as you don't go over 175 gr. Bullet length doesn't seem to matter as much as the actual weight in that particular 308. Break 175 and the bullet went off the grid.

Plenty to say for rolling your own.
 
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