[spoonxman]

Hello all, just got back from shooting. Particulars: AR Performance custom upper, 18" stainless barrel, low profile gas block, mid-length gas with a rifle length forend and an A2 flash hider. Lower DPMS with a RRA LPK, stock trigger not 2 stage. PRI 5 round magazines and a Nikon Prostaff 2x7 scope with Larue mount.

Observation: never have to break in a precision barrel before, it took awhile and I kept getting looks like what is this guy doing. First 2 shots were dang near touching. Third shot problem with rifle would not go into battery and refused to be pulled back by the charging handle. About 4 good whacks on the forward assist, with th palm of my hand, it finally went into battery.
Pulled back on the charging handle and the round came out. Inspected round it was fine so I used it. Never had problem again. Went through about 60 rounds and no other problems.

Once I got the scope sighted in holy cow does this thing shoot. I managed to keep my groups at 1". With a heavy stock trigger I don't consider this to bad. No FTF or FTE. Other than the one problem mentioned above it was great. In anticipation of getting this upper I had bought a SSS flatwire spring and a H buffer. Didn't need them. I am a dinosaur so no pics as I don't have a digital camera or a cell phone

Most of you here know AR Performance but those of you who don't I can highly recommend Harrison, His work and attention to detail are outstanding.

 

[Lucky]

Sounds like you got a winner there, congrats and I hope you continue to enjoy your new 6.8...

 

[nfldraftdog]

Thanks

Nice report, I have a few questions. What ammo did you use? Did you hand cycle the action prior to shooting. Have you cleaned it yet? was it real dirty. Do you have a chrome lined barrrell? Did you get a lot of initial copper fouling?

 

[marinesg1012]

H's uppers can shoot.

 

[spoonxman]

nfldraftdog, to answer your questions, I used SSA 115 gr OTM in their Tactical Loading. I started hand cycling and got bored after about 50 then I quit. I cleaned it after I got back from the range and posted the report. It wasn't as dirty as I thought it would be. But for break in I did clean it after every shot for the first 20 round box of ammo. Barrel is stainless and not chrome lined. As for copper fouling, I don't know what to look for. I used Hoppes and a nylon brush to clean it with. However it did clean up easier and sooner than my 556 chrome lined AR. The only thing that took a long time was me teaching my 6 year old daughter how to clean her 22 bolt rifle. Hope this answers your questions.

 

[constructor]

If you can't see the bore due to a flash hider then the best way to check for copper is with a copper remover. Most copper removers are ammonia based so they turn blue when copper is present.
just run a patch in the bore, wait 4-5 minutes then run it through again. If it comes out blue you know you still have some cleaning to do.
After the patches come out white remove the solvent with an alcohol patch(damp only not dripping)
then a patch with light oil(damp) then a dry patch to remove the excess oil.

Leaving a film of oil/solvent in the barrel can cause high pressure so always follow them with a dry patch to remove any excess.

 

[nfldraftdog]

nfldraftdog, to answer your questions, I used SSA 115 gr OTM in their Tactical Loading. I started hand cycling and got bored after about 50 then I quit. I cleaned it after I got back from the range and posted the report. It wasn't as dirty as I thought it would be. But for break in I did clean it after every shot for the first 20 round box of ammo. Barrel is stainless and not chrome lined. As for copper fouling, I don't know what to look for. I used Hoppes and a nylon brush to clean it with. However it did clean up easier and sooner than my 556 chrome lined AR. The only thing that took a long time was me teaching my 6 year old daughter how to clean her 22 bolt rifle. Hope this answers your questions.

I have had the best luck with Sweets, but most people swear by KG12 for copper removal, I also like the foaming bore cleaner. I have an AR Performance upper also, but it has a chrome lined bore and so far I haven't detected any copper fouling.

I have used a lot of that SSA 115gr OTM ammo, they have tons of it at my local Cabelas. It is around $21 a box and they (cabelas) also have the Barnes TSX, but that costs around 28 a box. I love mine, but the bolt and bolt carrier get very dirty after shooting. It takes me about 2 hours each time just to clean the bolt, bolt carrier and firing pin. You have probably already seen this, but if not, here is a good article on Copper removal and barrell break in. http://www.ar15performance.com/6_8_facts___load_data
Good luck with your rifle.

 

[MichiganMilitia]

If you can't see the bore due to a flash hider then the best way to check for copper is with a copper remover. Most copper removers are ammonia based so they turn blue when copper is present.
just run a patch in the bore, wait 4-5 minutes then run it through again. If it comes out blue you know you still have some cleaning to do.
After the patches come out white remove the solvent with an alcohol patch(damp only not dripping)
then a patch with light oil(damp) then a dry patch to remove the excess oil.

Leaving a film of oil/solvent in the barrel can cause high pressure so always follow them with a dry patch to remove any excess.

What kind of alcohol do you use to get the copper solvent out of the bore?

 

[constructor]

What kind of alcohol do you use to get the copper solvent out of the bore?

just plain rubbing alcohol, anything to take the strong solvents out.

 

[constructor]

What kind of alcohol do you use to get the copper solvent out of the bore?

just plain rubbing alcohol, anything to take out the strong solvents.
Squeeky clean metal will strip more copper from the bullets.

 

[MichiganMilitia]

As always, Thanks H!

 

[spoonxman]

So basically, since I didn't use a copper remover then I didn't get it clean? If that is the case I'd hate to think what was in the barrels of my other weapons. YIKES! So do I need to get Sweets, KG12 or foaming bore cleaner? I have never used any of these products. But, I do want to take proper care of this rifle. Also, so if I use a copper remover the big thing is NOT to leave it in there overnight?

 

[constructor]

So basically, since I didn't use a copper remover then I didn't get it clean? If that is the case I'd hate to think what was in the barrels of my other weapons. YIKES! So do I need to get Sweets, KG12 or foaming bore cleaner? I have never used any of these products. But, I do want to take proper care of this rifle. Also, so if I use a copper remover the big thing is NOT to leave it in there overnight?

Correct the strong solvents can etch the bore and make them copper foul worse.
Foam(Wipeout or Gunslick) is the easy way, KG12 works very well and Sweets is the old standby, can't go wrong with any of them.

 

[jrswanson1]

I've used a foaming bore cleaner, it works really well. The instructions state leave it in for 15-20 minutes then use patches to get out. I've not had any problems with using this stuff on any of the rifles I have. Of the 8 rifles I have, only 3 have not had this treatment, and one of those hasn't been fired yet so it doesn't really count. My 10/22 and my Win 94 have not had this done as neither have had any copper jacketed bullets put through them. I've used Hoppes copper remover on other rifles before, just follow the directions.

Jim

 

[Lucky]

constructor Ive been using

Correct the strong solvents can etch the bore and make them copper foul worse.
Foam(Wipeout or Gunslick) is the easy way, KG12 works very well and Sweets is the old standby, can't go wrong with any of them.

Montana Extreme and it's strong ammonia, you think it might be best if I switched to something else ?

 

[constructor]

Montana Extreme and it's strong ammonia, you think it might be best if I switched to something else ?

It works well, I have used that too.

 

[Lucky]

Thank You constructor

It works well, I have used that too.

My main concern is the new Bisson upper en-route, just figured a second opinion from experiened 6.8 guys would be well worth asking..Since it's stainless, that's new to me, my only other stainless firearms are hand guns, all my rifles are chrome/moly , some with CL barrel, so I just didn't want to mess up anything..One thing that is certain about Montana Extreme is you can see the greenish/blue color on your patches, stuff works pretty good..
Thanks again,
Robert