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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here's the rifle...

18" Constructor built Super Match 6.8SPC with he best of everything!! Except glass...

Without going into all the gorey details, this gun is a real shooter. With cheapo, over magnified 6-18x50, paralax ridden, chinese optics, it shot sub MOA at 300 yards. It pulls double duty with punching paper and hunting. Ranges it sees are from 50 to 500 yards. When hunting, I can be out from before sun up to after sun down. And if I'm going after coyotes or hogs, it will see some very low light conditions.

I'm looking for magnified optics in the $500 to $600 range and will use my existing mount for 1" tubes. OR swap it out for a similar mount for 30mm tubes... Pay no attention to the TR21-3 Accupoint shown in the picture as it's now mounted on my SBR... As you can see, I'm fond of the Trijicon Accupoints and have a "hankerin'" for a 3-9x40 if they release it with the German #4 reticle. However, I'm open to any and all suggestions...

Okay... You know the rifle, you know how it will be used and you have a budget... What say ye? Stay Accupoint or jump ship?
 

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Honestly,

AccuPoint 3-9x40 with a Mil-dot and be done with it.

Run a 300yd ZERO so all your DOPE is with in 1.5 Mil above and 2.5 mil below and just hold for all shots.

If you want to step to the ild side go with the Horus 3-12x50 Hawk.

I have used both optics and will stand by both of them in performance for your needs. I would run the same ZERO for the Horus also.

John
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
J.Boyette said:
Honestly,

AccuPoint 3-9x40 with a Mil-dot and be done with it.

Run a 300yd ZERO so all your DOPE is with in 1.5 Mil above and 2.5 mil below and just hold for all shots.

If you want to step to the ild side go with the Horus 3-12x50 Hawk.

I have used both optics and will stand by both of them in performance for your needs. I would run the same ZERO for the Horus also.

John
Thanks John!!

Out of the two mentioned, I think I'm going to stick with the Accupoint and learn the "art of mil". After looking at the very busy Horus reticle and trying their demo, I left their site even more confused than when I arrived. I'm sure it's one heck of an optic, but in low light conditions, those fine lines will be mighty tough to see with these weak eyes...

I already own one Accupoint that I am VERY happy with. I have confidence in Trijicon and feel the either the 3-9, or (If I win the lottery) the 2.5-10 would make a great addition to my rifle.

So John... Would ya school me in "mils", please? :wink:
 

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Sir,

Mil reticules are easy as pie.

A milradian is a unit of measure. To understand this unit of measure, and how it helps you is simple. All you need to do is know how big a Mil is at each 100yd lines.

So lets do this.

A mil @ 100yds is 3.6" in diameter
A mil @ 200yds is 7.2" in diameter
A mil @ 300yds is 10.8" in diameter

And so on. All you need to do is take the yard line value as in the 4 from 400yds an times it by 3.6" and you get the value for that distance.

So now we know how big a Mil is at each distance.

Using the reticule for unknown distance target ranging, or hold overs is the same skill set. To range a target you need to know target size in width or height.

How does this work?

Very simply, to find a unknown you need two pieces of the puzzle that are known correct? So for you to find a unknown distance to a target you need the following.

Mil size + Target size = distance to target.

Very simple.

So all you do is this.

Target size x 27.778 = a number
a number / mil reading in the reticule = Target distance.

That's it.

To do holds, plug your bullet drop in MOA to a chart. The divide that drop by 3.438 you will now have the Mil drop.

Example:

100 yds to 500yds - 14 MOA

14 / 3.438= 4.0 Mil

So with a 100yd ZERO I raise the POI up until the 500yd target is lined up with the 4th Mil line/dot and send it.

Hope this very short explanation helps.

I did this class on the Mil dot at the start of the month. Sometimes you need to be shown this is that, and that is this.

But let me know if you need any help.

John
 

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J.Boyette said:
Sir,

Mil reticules are easy as pie.
:wink: :lol: :lol:

Excellent write up...
 

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Yes, please do send it. Because I have to tell you, yours is much easier to understand than the one at mildot.com.

Then again, maybe I'm just dense. :(
 

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Bimjo said:
Yes, please do send it. Because I have to tell you, yours is much easier to understand than the one at mildot.com.

Then again, maybe I'm just dense. :(
Thats not it, we are are not dense per-say ;D

The issue is how the subject is being taught to the student. You must find a common topic that makes since to the student and then build upon that.

If I was to give you a ton of numbers with no meaning you would not know what the numbers mean.

For example.

I held a class on 6-7 Dec on the Mil-Dot reticule the entire class time on day one was learning what .1 or .8 mil looks like in your optic. Read here = LINK. I did post the class on this board but got no feed back on it, I did not think any of you would be interested in the subject.

My mistake on that one :(

Anyhow,

I will post some info up for right now to get your mind working and will send off the whole article to Cold.

John
 

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Thanks John for taking the time to do this. Very helpful! :)
 

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J.Boyette said:
Here you guys go. This tooksome time so PLEASE use this info :)

LINK

John
Wow, I'm acually starting to understand this.

Hard to believe coming from a guy that really likes revolvers over autos, bolts over semi autos, etc..... :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
J.Boyette said:
moose-hunter,

Check this out bro

LINK

Thats a DEAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John
I'm one step ahead of you on this one!! :wink: That's the EXACT combo I was looking at. AND... I'd get some neat swag with my order... :lol: I don't really "need" another mount... but my lil' lady's pea shooter could sure use one!!

And thanks BIG TIME for the link on mils!!! I've created a "study sheet" and I'll be doing my homework! You can bet on it!!
 
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