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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What are the thoughts of pinning a suppressor? What advantages are there to removing it other than using it on another firearm? I am told these are self cleaning. Is that true? I have never used one so I am asking those of you in the know. The intended firearm is 6.8spc and will be used for general shooting and hopefully a hog hunt someday. The barrel is a ARP 12.5.
Thanks for any input.
 

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Is there a specific reason for pinning? As in for overall length? If not, I would not bother. I use direct thread and I like the option of taking it off if I want to. Some manufacturers have told me their is no need for cleaning. I know many people do. Mine is all welded so no taking it apart to clean. I would have to submerse the whole thing in cleaner if I ever felt the need to but not likely going to happen. I don't use it enough to cause any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Overall length is the issue. I would like to avoid the sbr stamp as the end goal is to be suppressed and don't want to have to deal with two stamps on a single rifle. I have seen people with suppressed firearms at gun ranges and have to admit it is a lot more enjoyable than the ones with brakes.
 

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Do you already have the suppressor? If not I wonder if there is one with QD mount that fits on a flash hider that would be 4" long. If so you could pin and weld the flash hider to the barrel and still be able to remove the suppressor. You may want to have more than one gun suppressed one day and this will allow you to use the same can on more than on rifle.
 

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Tahoe - are you referring to the ATF Ruling on the Pistol Brace? If so, there are easier and cheaper ways. Pay close attention to the the advice from this attorney. Watch this video:

I would not pin/weld a suppressor. I like to use mine on different rifles. The only way I would consider a dedicated "can" is one from Dark Horse Arms (Texas). They offer an integrally suppressed rifle.

Now, some suppressors are self-cleaning and user serviceable. Some are not. I own both types.

My two cents: watch the video.

TC
 

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They aren't self-cleaning. I wouldn't personally pin and weld a suppressor due to the trouble there is to get one. Frankly, a 16 inch barrel isn't that long. Suppressors aren't that short, so you'd be adding considerable length with a suppressor. 20 or 23.5 inch overall length isn't that much difference once you add the butt stock length to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've seen the video and am subscribed to The site. My intentions are not for an sbr but for a suppressed rifle that doesn't have an overly long barrel. That is why I am using the 6.8 as it has the desired performance without having the extra length. I am not looking for a tactical type setup. I am getting to old to run and gun. I just want to build a fun multipurpose rifle that is pleasant to shoot and checks all the boxes. I have not purchased a suppressor yet but was planning on doing it this next week or so. I already own the barrel and the pistol thing is to much of a problem right now. I know there will be a long waiting period for the stamp.
 

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I have switched to lighter suppressors over the years. My early ones are from SICO and newer are the Banish line. I looked at Gemtech suppressors but they are not on the lighter side (my preference). If age is an issue, then you may want to consider something lighter. I like the construction of the Gemtech line. I had a chance to get my hands on a few locally, too.

They make integrally suppressed uppers & Gemtech has suppressors that are pre-drilled for p/w jobs.

ISR upper:


Gemtech Dagger:


Gemtech Patrolman (pre-drilled):


I realize that 556 is not suitable for 6.8 (these are just features for you to review).

If you want light, you should take a look at the Banish, TBAC, or Energetic line. Note: the construction of the can and features will play a role in your permanent weld. That has to do with the mount itself as it can be direct thread or QD. These pieces can be removable and will have an effect on your desired outcome.

TC
 

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I wouldn't want to pin and weld a suppressor because what happens if you need to send it in for work or had a baffle strike? I would SBR it because an SBR stamp isn't a 2 stamp for one rifle scenario as you can put different uppers on your SBR lower and it is perfectly legal to do it. So say someday down the road you would also like a short-barrelled upper in another caliber? great you already have an SBR stamped lower so you build the upper and now you have a lower to put it on plus you can use that suppressor you bought on the new rifle as well as it is not pinned and welded to the other upper.Win-Win.
 

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I have several pin welded suppressors. Gives one the benefits of an SBR without having to pay the extra tax. At one time a man could buy a decent full auto rated sealed suppressor for under $400. Have also pin welded a few Form 1 cans where cost of the can is some scraps from the rack or laying under the lathe. Other than labor the $200 stamp is only cost so not having to pay an SBR tax stamp as well becomes a great savings.

Thread commercial Form 4 or home built Form 1 onto sub 16" barrel of choice using a crush washer then center four equidistant on the crush washer letting the puddle just run out and get a hold on both the barrels shoulder and the suppressor. If ever need to remove, cut through the four tack welds into the crush washer thread can off and clean up the welds on both the barrel and suppressor. Have removed welded cans in the past for another rifle or barrel swap.

One of my 5.56 pin welded single stamp rifles with 11.5" barrel, 1x red dot, binary trigger and most often has an ATI 60 round stick mag loaded 55 rounds. It carries a sealed full auto rated commercial can paid $349 at my "employee discount" just days before the Trust laws changed. Added a pile of cans in that final year before the rules changed on Trusts.



Cleaning is no problem, have a hook in ceiling over one of my ultrasonic cleaners. First clean barrel. Remove upper and hang from lower hook then adjust parachute cord so suppressor is suspended in the cleaning fluid and let it run. If in a hurry blow it out with Gunblaster, clean bore and your done. Have two 5.56 pin welded rifles, one 6.8 and two 458 SOCOMs of which none give me any issues. The 458s are Form 1 cans and the 5.56s along with the 6.8 are full auto rated Form 4 commercial cans.

I do have direct thread and quick change cans I use on AR pistols and rifles from 0.224" to 0.458". Have one can that swapping end caps can use on anything from 22 LR to 460 Weatherby Mag but its best from 7mm to 458 magnums as it makes light guns muzzle heavy. How many ever shoot their SBR unsuppressed? I seldom if ever do so after SBRing a couple builds have gone to pinning suppressors and save myself a $200 stamp.
 

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Just asked this in another thread but if you pin and weld a suppressor to achieve the 16" barrel length would it not have to be a welded suppressor so that you could not just unscrew the sleeve and front cap leaving only the rear cap pinned to the barrel?
 

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It would depend on the design. If its sealed then you should be good. However, if you can unscrew parts of it to bring it below the 16" mark, then its not acceptable. If the front end cap and baffles remove but the sleeve and threaded base remain and its still 16" you should be ok.

You can always drill out the pin and send it back to the manufacturer if there is a baffle strike.
 

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I was going to say after reading previous posts if you unpin/unweld a suppressor from a short-barreled rifle you are now in violation of the NFA because you only have one stamp and it ain't for an SBR. If you go the pin/weld route I wouldn't do anything funky with it after that point let alone remove it.
 

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If you decide to remove suppressor from a pin welded rifle you have three options. Pin a muzzle device that brings it up to legal length, some flash cans are pretty long and have seen very long muzzle brakes that appear made for this purpose. If lower was not marked as a rifle on its 4473 then can convert it to pistol. Final option is to SBR it. All of my lowers get registered as "multi" on 4473s as usually buy three to thirty on each form. Allows me to be flexible in builds and swapping configurations.

Remember you can convert a pistol to a rifle but if 4473 calls it a rifle can't make it a pistol. Why 90% of mine are registered as neither and use the "multi" term in appropriate box on 4473. Actually you have another option, swap to a 13.7" or 14.7" barrel which is easy to pin to 16" or go with a 16" or longer barrel. I have yet to want to unpin a pin weld rifle. Eventually will be swapping a worn out suppressor or barrel, likely both once wear one of the two out.
 

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Just asked this in another thread but if you pin and weld a suppressor to achieve the 16" barrel length would it not have to be a welded suppressor so that you could not just unscrew the sleeve and front cap leaving only the rear cap pinned to the barrel?
It would depend on the design. If its sealed then you should be good. However, if you can unscrew parts of it to bring it below the 16" mark, then its not acceptable. If the front end cap and baffles remove but the sleeve and threaded base remain and its still 16" you should be ok.

You can always drill out the pin and send it back to the manufacturer if there is a baffle strike.
This is pretty much the answer I left in Woodstock's other thread.
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My local FFL was pointing me towards the Odin Works MOAB. I haven't done my research yet on it. Is anyone familiar with it? They did have examples at the store so I was able to actually see and touch it which helps when purchasing something like this.
 

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The MOAB looks like a good candidate, is your dealer any less than the $449 MSRP? Him having on shelf is a good start, a 30 caliber magnum rated sealed can should do the job unless you slap your upper on a select fire lower and burn through a bag of magazines. It should hold up to occasional hard mag dumps, especially with 6.8/277 having some "wiggle room" in a 308 suppressor.
 

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My FFL has been getting e-file Form 4s back in matter of days sometimes and seldom more than a month so now you just need to do your paperwork, wait then nail it on.

This was a junk box muzzle brake installed so had not assembled an illegal SBR while waiting on muzzle device wanted on the rifle. Thus welds are not at all touched up with grinder as knew would be cutting them soon as found the correct thread pitch muzzle device for an out of production QD suppressor.





When correct muzzle device was founder just take die grinder or Dremel tool with cut off wheel, cut through welds into crush washer, twist it off, clean up a tad and all parts look unmolested with no damaged threads. I really dislike drilling through the device and through threads to drive a pin and weld over. Seldom see the weld over pin ground and pin dug out without parts and threads damaged. This method I can swap a device with four equidistant spot welds in ten to fifteen minutes.



Here is a close-up of pin welded suppressor. Can see where start a tack weld on top of crush washer and let puddle spread till it grabs edge of suppressor and barrel shoulder. Repeat process each side along with top and bottom for four equidistant welds and your done. If want to move can, send off for new baffles etc just cut into crush washer at each weld and twist off. Can move a device or suppressor multiple times without damaging threads on barrel, barrel shoulder or device. Sacrifice a twentyfive cent crush washer each time but never have to find then dig out a blind pin.

 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks. That's good info. I have done the paperwork and paid my dues now it's a waiting game. Ended up ordering two suppressors. The Odin Works Baja and Moab.
Once these are finished and all is well I will order one more that can be moved around as needed.
 
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