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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I own a Glock 20 and am just starting to reload for it. I just purchased the RCBS 40/10mm Carbide 3 Die Set and I was wondering wether I should purchase a Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die as well to make sure my taper crimp is ideal. (I will not be using lead bullets, from what I understand there maybe an issue with those and the Lee FCD?) Or will the RCBS Seating and crimping die be sufficient?

Also, if you have a go to powder for 10mm Auto 180-200 grain bullets.

Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I use the Lee factory crimp die with no problems. I think that it's always best to seat and then crimp using separate dies rather than using the seating crimping die together. Less

things to go wrong but also with the crimp die all you really are doing isn't so much as crimping but removing the bell from the expander die.

Longshot, Blue Dot and 800X has been my favorite powders for 10mm although there are several others that I haven't tried yet.
 

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I've made Longshot my 10mm powder, 8# will last a while.

The issue with the FCD and lead or plated bullets is the sizer ring resizes the projo inside the brass. Accuracy can suffer. Evidently FMJs are resilient enough to "bounce back" after the resized ring in the die.

A few years ago I loaded a pile of 10mm rainiers that were hot. The combo of velocity and FCD equaled about a 36" group at 25m with all sorts of keyholing.
 

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36" group? on an M60 we called that the beaten zone LOL
 

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Ahhhh....the pig
 

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I reload 180 gr FMJ's for general blasting with my G20 and have always used the FCD.

I don't think it hurts my loads so that's what I do. Some people like them, some don't.
 

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I've never used the Lee FCD for pistol cartridges, just rifle, so I won't comment on it. However, I've loaded many thousands of pistol rounds, including 10 MM using RCBS and Lyman taper crimp dies with great success. At one time common wisdom was that .45 match loads using either lead or jacketed should be taper crimped for best accuracy. I assume that is still the case.
 

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Since we're talking about 10mm I'd like to add that I only shoot FMJ bullets and not plated. I shoot a little on the warm side and plated isn't recommended for loads over 1200 fps.

Not that one can't load plated but if I wanted to shoot light loads I'd shoot my .40S&W (Not knocking the .40 - different loads for different guns)
 

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I'm a firm believer in the FCD in everything I shoot, both rifle and pistol (waiting for the shotgun version) and see better accuracy in rifle and KNOW my pistol ammo will function. I shoot 10mm in a Javelina, both 175 wheelweight at 1200fps and 180 xtp pushing 1300 and credit the excellent accuracy of both to the consistency of crimp from the Lee fcd. If you shoot 10mm you should stock up on Loudshot before the election.

RT
 

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Since we're talking about 10mm I'd like to add that I only shoot FMJ bullets and not plated. I shoot a little on the warm side and plated isn't recommended for loads over 1200 fps.

Not that one can't load plated but if I wanted to shoot light loads I'd shoot my .40S&W (Not knocking the .40 - different loads for different guns)
I got my G20 in 1991 and I was poor (E5 in the Army). I started doing the plated when they were relatively cheaper than now and loaded them probably ~1150fps because I was recycling the same 300-400 pcs of brass and they shot great. At the same time the 10mm seemed to be waning, so I was a big time brass vulture. Later in life I got some plated from midway and I swear the product description said keep them below *1500fps* so I cranked em up with some longshot and started using the FCD at the same time. Not good results. Did some research and sent some emails that got me to my above post.

Some where I have some of those same plated loaded hot, without the FCD treatment and some with FCD. We're trying to sell the house so all that stuff is packed up, but I'm going to do a comparison to rule in/rule out if the FCD is the problem or the velocity.

I now have some of RMR's "hardcore match" plated to try. Jake recommended against the FCD but IIRC said they could be pushed up to 1500fps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I got my G20 in 1991 and I was poor (E5 in the Army). I started doing the plated when they were relatively cheaper than now and loaded them probably ~1150fps because I was recycling the same 300-400 pcs of brass and they shot great. At the same time the 10mm seemed to be waning, so I was a big time brass vulture. Later in life I got some plated from midway and I swear the product description said keep them below *1500fps* so I cranked em up with some longshot and started using the FCD at the same time. Not good results. Did some research and sent some emails that got me to my above post.

Some where I have some of those same plated loaded hot, without the FCD treatment and some with FCD. We're trying to sell the house so all that stuff is packed up, but I'm going to do a comparison to rule in/rule out if the FCD is the problem or the velocity.

I now have some of RMR's "hardcore match" plated to try. Jake recommended against the FCD but IIRC said they could be pushed up to 1500fps.
I'd love to hear your results when your finished. I think I'll pass on the Lee FCD for now and just use the RCBS seating / Taper Crimp Die. Thanks for all the comments fellas.
 

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I own a Glock 20 and am just starting to reload for it. I just purchased the RCBS 40/10mm Carbide 3 Die Set and I was wondering wether I should purchase a Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die as well to make sure my taper crimp is ideal. (I will not be using lead bullets, from what I understand there maybe an issue with those and the Lee FCD?) Or will the RCBS Seating and crimping die be sufficient?

Also, if you have a go to powder for 10mm Auto 180-200 grain bullets.

Any and all comments would be greatly appreciated.
800X, it doesn't meter well (I hand throw all of mine) but great upper end performance. Hornady XTP's or Double Tap hard cast, gas checks are good bullet choices. I use the 200grn DT's for hunting and plinking in a KKM barrel.
 
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