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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So far i've lapped 4 or 5 upper receivers. What is you guys stopping points? For me every one i have done shows signs of metal being removed all the way around, so I go til the whole front is shinny. I am using the wheeler lapping tool, http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/...235/Wheeler+Delta+AR-15+Receiver+Lapping+Tool. I have seen posts of people only removing a little making a half moon shape and so on, but for me it seems to always be all the way around. The uppers are cheaper Anderson uppers. The first upper I built, not lapped, was a pain getting the gas tube in place/lined up and getting the barrel nut tight, among other issues that were a pain. Every since lapping my uppers it all just fits perfectly. So what is your experience on lapping uppers and when do you say, "That's good"
 

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I go till 80% lapped. Just until the highest points are brought to the lowest but definitely not till all shiny. Doing so could increase the likelihood of barrel extension extending too far into receiver and causing a lip for the feed ramp. 90 grain gold dots can't handle any lip and then you'll need to modify the feed ramps on the barrel extension to prevent FTF.


Heinous typos thanks to autocorrect.
 

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I stop when you can see the anodizing starting to be removed all the way around. It is usually kind of a white color, not shiny aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Huh...? So far sounds like I been going too far compared to y'all. Never had had a issue with it though, so, idk. I will get the barrel in and install it and let y'all know.
 

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Just run a pick along the M4 cuts in the receiver and see if there is a lip when it hits the barrel extension. If so, fix it before fully assembling so as to avoid future feeding issues. No lip? No problema!


Heinous typos thanks to autocorrect.
 

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I stop when you can see the anodizing starting to be removed all the way around. It is usually kind of a white color, not shiny aluminum.
Yep, just contact all the way around, it don't even need to be 100%, I don't think twice about small gaps. Some I have done were good with removing nothing, they made contact all the way around right from the get go.
 

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Yep, just contact all the way around, it don't even need to be 100%, I don't think twice about small gaps. Some I have done were good with removing nothing, they made contact all the way around right from the get go.
Pretty much the same here. I go for contact all the way around, but I don't believe I need the shiny ring to be the same all the way around, just as long as there is nearly continuous contact between the receiver and barrel extension. So far, this has worked for me on my limited number of builds. A testament to the design, no delusions of expertise here.
 

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Remove the anodizing all the way around and that's it. If the barrel nut won't clock for the handguard to align, further lapping until it does. Haven't had an issues doing it this way.
 

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Hand lapping

I hand lapped both of mine like you would an engine valve, back and forth clockwise/counter clockwise and checked every few seconds until the last small bit of black was almost gone thine five second more,,
I zeroed out a old 2x7 scope and had to move it 2 clicks left and 8 clicks down after mounting and first shot with last years hand load for another 68 rifle and was a little over one inch above and around bulls eye at a 100 with an 16" ARP..
Just my penny and a half....
 

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I go till 80% lapped. Just until the highest points are brought to the lowest but definitely not till all shiny. Doing so could increase the likelihood of barrel extension extending too far into receiver and causing a lip for the feed ramp. 90 grain gold dots can't handle any lip and then you'll need to modify the feed ramps on the barrel extension to prevent FTF.
Same here . I go until it is what I believe uniform all the way around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
just for an update, the upper feed ramps and barrel extension feed ramps line up perfectly. No lip or any issues. I know that I will not go as far from here on out when lapping, only when it touches all the way around, but it truly didn't seem to hurt or make a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
hey wintys is that a ranger in your avatar? how you like it? any mechanical issues? I just purchased a Honda pioneer 700-4 and am loving it. No issues so far. Not a speed demon but it goes 43 so fast enough. People have said needs more power when climbing hills but I climb them with four people ridding (thats with me included) and it has no problems. Sorry guys a little off topic :a32:
 

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hey wintys is that a ranger in your avatar? how you like it? any mechanical issues? I just purchased a Honda pioneer 700-4 and am loving it. No issues so far. Not a speed demon but it goes 43 so fast enough. People have said needs more power when climbing hills but I climb them with four people ridding (thats with me included) and it has no problems. Sorry guys a little off topic :a32:
Love It Jcash, I had an older 2011 800cc Ranger no problems at all and let a friend have it at a good deal,, I started missing it around here when I needed it and went and test drove a 2015 900cc,,,,, it was was like day and night, had to have it....
 

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I stop when you can see the anodizing starting to be removed all the way around. It is usually kind of a white color, not shiny aluminum.
The difference between this and just evenly shiny isn't much more than .0005". I take it just to that point and stop. So far no problems. Rifles go together easily and shoot just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Love It Jcash, I had an older 2011 800cc Ranger no problems at all and let a friend have it at a good deal,, I started missing it around here when I needed it and went and test drove a 2015 900cc,,,,, it was was like day and night, had to have it....
Then I need to stay away from the p1000 because I'm sure if I test drive that I'll never go back lol. Since only driving the 700 and not knowing anything else it seems like enough power but that's without ever driving one that has more.
 
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