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So I started reloading late last year/ early this year. I started reloading for my .308. Everyone raved how accurate Varget is, so I started with Varget. I worked up a really nice load with the Varget and really haven't seen a need to change for the .308. I bought a pound of BLc-2 and Win748 to try, but I am shooting .500" CtoC 5 shot groups at 100 yards all day with the load I am using, so I haven't even opened them.

When I start looking at 6.8 loads, it really looks like everyone is shooting just about every .270 bullet with a wide range of powders. How do you pick one to test. What exactly do you look for?

I was at a local reloading shop and they had some 110gr pro hunters, so I picked them up, with a set of dies, some Reloader 10X and some RP brass. I know RP brass doesn't get good reviews, but I have a ton of large primers, and I am not paying todays prices for some small primers.

I picked the 10x because I saw a nicely shot target posted on here and the guy said he was using Reloader 10X and 110gr. Pro Hunters. Thats the only reason I chose those for my first attempt. How else would you find a good powder?

Thanks
David
 

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I chose my powders the same way you did with your .308 by others' experience.

Until I started with the 6.8 I had pretty much settled on IMR 4895 as my all around powder for 30-06 and even 5.56. Velocities are a little low on the 5.56 but accracy looks promising.

I have a some RE10X and some H322 to try with a bunch of ProHunters but haven't gotten to testing yet. I have these two powders as like you I have seen good results from those who have worked with the 6.8 for some time now. I figure from what I have seen here that H, TimW, HTR, Paulo, and others have done a lot of work and are willing to let the rest of us reap the rewards.
 

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Go to the store and buy a pound of several types of powder. Work up loads and go shooting. See whice one does what you want given the bullet. Some rifles will like other powders over some. I have been hearing alot of good things about h322 in the 6.8 but since I'm still waiting on my upper, it will be a bit before I start working up accuracy loads.
 

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I shoot alot of 10x and pro hunters. By far my favorite. This week I've been using some Remington brass that I bought several years ago. I prefer SSA small primer because they hold a little more powder and they will handle hotter loads before they show pressure signs. I couldn't tell if the accuracy was better or worse with the Large primer brass. I'm lucky. My xtreme is not picky. It shoots lots of loads very well.


Since I've shot your upper I will tell you that it shot this load very well. 29.5 grains of 10x 110 pro hunter SSA brass CCI 41 primer. Loaded to 2.30 OAL

With the remington brass start out at 28.5 grains for the first firing. They will hold more powder and have less pressure after they have been fired. Then I would work up from there. When it starts flattening the primer back off a little from there.
 

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So I started reloading late last year/ early this year. I started reloading for my .308. Everyone raved how accurate Varget is, so I started with Varget. I worked up a really nice load with the Varget and really haven't seen a need to change for the .308. I bought a pound of BLc-2 and Win748 to try, but I am shooting .500" CtoC 5 shot groups at 100 yards all day with the load I am using, so I haven't even opened them.

When I start looking at 6.8 loads, it really looks like everyone is shooting just about every .270 bullet with a wide range of powders. How do you pick one to test. What exactly do you look for?

I was at a local reloading shop and they had some 110gr pro hunters, so I picked them up, with a set of dies, some Reloader 10X and some RP brass. I know RP brass doesn't get good reviews, but I have a ton of large primers, and I am not paying todays prices for some small primers.

I picked the 10x because I saw a nicely shot target posted on here and the guy said he was using Reloader 10X and 110gr. Pro Hunters. Thats the only reason I chose those for my first attempt. How else would you find a good powder?

Thanks
David
That is exactly how most people choose their first powders. It is also a very common sense approach. By choosing a powder that others have already worked with and done development work with you are saving yourself time and money. The important thing to remember no matter what you hear from others is the only things to take away from others use of this powder is that it works well with that given bullet or bullets. What it does not give you is the actual powder charge you should use. Your primer, Case brand or type, OAL, crimp or not, and your particular barrel and specs are all variables that will effect the actual ideal load as well as the starting load to work from. Even whether you are using new cases or fired sized cases make a noticeable difference. Always starting low and work up. A couple of grains low is only a small amount of extra time to work up from and worth it.
 

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I have had great luck with the accurate 2230 powder. I know that it is not the fastest but i have found that it shoot more accurate than the 10x and the ramshot. I load it to 28.5 grains in SSA brass with cci 400 small rifle primers and hornady V-max and the BTHP the oal is 2.245. I am also shooting a Stag Arms model 7 hunter with a 1in11 twist barrel with .5 moa at 100yrds. hope that helps
 

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I have had great luck with the accurate 2230 powder. I know that it is not the fastest but i have found that it shoot more accurate than the 10x and the ramshot. I load it to 28.5 grains in SSA brass with cci 400 small rifle primers and hornady V-max and the BTHP the oal is 2.245. I am also shooting a Stag Arms model 7 hunter with a 1in11 twist barrel with .5 moa at 100yrds. hope that helps
What type of Ramshot are you using? I have both TAC and Xterminator. Does anyone have good loads for either powder? I have both 110gr hollow pt. hornady#2720 and Sierra 90gr hp #1800. I will work up other loads later. The charts on the sticky thread don't have much info on TAC.
 

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As others have stated, I go by experiences on the boards, and what people write about in magazines, etc. Then I check if it feeds well through a meter on a progressive (important to me if I'm making non-match loads). Then I check velocities and prices. Temperature stability is not a big issue for me as I only shoot during the summer, but for people who vary their shooting, that is something to add to the mix when deciding.

For 6.8, I started with H322 becasue I have 15lbs of it from .223 reloading and it has become my go-to powder for accuracy. I bought RE7 for running the TNTs and the lighter bullets at max velocity, though accuracy isn't too shabby.

Done with the days of having 10 different powders laying around; just have H322, RE7, and Varget for my .308. God help me if I decide to reload handgun loads though...
 

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What type of Ramshot are you using? I have both TAC and Xterminator. Does anyone have good loads for either powder? I have both 110gr hollow pt. hornady#2720 and Sierra 90gr hp #1800. I will work up other loads later. The charts on the sticky thread don't have much info on TAC.
Ramshot XTerminator:
90 GR Bullets: 33.5 GR MAx. (32.5 GR with the Sierra 90 GR was the sweet spot for me.).
110 GR Bullets: 30.5 GR Max. (29.5 GR is a good place to start.).
115 GR Bullets: 30 GR Max. (29 GR is a good place to start.).

With TAC, just add 1 GR more for the Max:
90 GR Bullets: 34.5 GR MAx.
110 GR Bullets: 31.5 GR Max. (30.5 GR is a good place to start.).
115 GR Bullets: 31 GR Max. (30 GR is a good place to start.).
 

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That is the issue with TAC you can not get enough in teh case so the vel are down a bit. But if youa re not looking for that then its works. I am cheap and like powders that take the least amount fo powder to give the msot vel. That way I get more laods from each pound of powder.


For the person asking about fast versus slow powders:

What it effects is the pressure curve. The fast powder burns faster reaches its peak quicker.

Why you choose one over other: Its based on bullet weight but actually how easily the bullet will go down the bore. You want to match the powder to the bullet. A lgihter bullet will be farther down the barrel at the same point time wise as a heaver bullet. This means you need a powder that will burn faster to fill that larger empty bore area faster. If you try to use that faster powder with a heavier bullet it will peak and go down to soon and you will see high pressure signs before you reach the top vel the round is capable of. With a heavier bullet the slower powder will build pressure slower in line with the bullet and match up with the volume of bore that is behind the bullet.

A note and warning: It is OK to go with a faster powder with a heavier bullet. You will not get the best velocities but its safe. The other way around is not. It is never good to match up a slower powder with a lgihter bullet. The reason is you can get a secondray ignition which is more like a secondary explosion. What happens is the bullet actually gets out ahead of the pressure curve and then as the pressure is not pushing it it begins to slow until the powders pressure curve catches up with it and slams into it. This for whatever reason ( Actually I could explain but I am fairly certian no one wants to be put thru that :a43:) casues a secondary pressure head to form and becasue of this unique situtiaon the push actually reaches peaks far above the normally max chamber peak pressure. These secondarys can have peask in the 120,000 PSi range. Worse yet is this is happen not in the thick chamber area of the barrel but the thinner area farther down the bore. This has been docuemnted with pressure testing equipment and has also been further confirmed by dissecting barrels that have used these types of loads and found large bulges 4-6+ inches down barrels from the chamber. THe aount of pressre it takes to bulge a .800-1.00 barrel is in the 100K + range.

For the most part because of the limited case capcity of the 6.8 all powders are fast enough. But some trying to use whatever powder they may have around or can get becasue of the shortage regardless of low vel may run into real issues they were not counting on. I really think people forget or do not realize that while very safe IF you follow the rules hand load has the potential to be very dangerous. It is for the most part setting off a controlled pipe bomb 3" from your face. Usually when a person first starts reloading they are very super careful and have their eyes squeezed shut the first time they set off their first reload. Then as things go well over the months they start to push things with nothing blowing up. Then they may push or do something wrong and again no bad things happen. Its usually after 2-3 years of loading when you figure you ahve everything figured out and people feel nothing bad coudl really happen and they are not follwiong standard precautions and think some do not matter along with giving out similar advice to others. Then it happens. It may not even be from something crazy. Maybe a case used one to many times. Using load info for one brand case in another. Whatever. They get a full out case rupture. The mag blows out the bottom of the gun, you are in cased in a cloud of smoke. Once you open your eyes as you are jumping up trying to figure out what just shook your world you start looking to see you have your limbs and edigits. Next you are pawing your face and looking for a mirror as you are sure you must be disfigured. Once you AS$H$L3 unclinches you start to look for what happened. You finally see the cause whihc may have left a few brass shavings in your hand or face. Ruptured case. After thinking back thru it and possibly looking thru notes if you are still keeping them you begin to see you missed something. It is after that you tend to come full circle and now realize that those checks and rules and warnings were there for a reason and while many times you can get away without going by them you just may not. Then how you reload and what you recommend to others changes. Making sure to error on the side of being cautious and to always check everything and go up slowly and never take anything as a given. After 23 years of reloading Been there down that long ago and now have seen countless others walk that path. Just something to chew on as there are things you woudl never even consider that can and will bite you in a$$ when you least expect it.

Anyways twhat wil normally happen is you will see lower velocities. When using faster than ideal powders you will reach pressure signs on your cases fromhihg chamber pressure before you reach the better velocities. With slower powders you wil likely not be able to fit enough powder in the case to get the velcoities up but if you do (with larger cases) you will also have far more unburnt powder exiting the muzzle causing huge muzzle flashes as well as unusually large amounts of carbon build up in the action etc.. There is a general range of powder burn rates that work for any given bullet in a given cartridge so there are usually plenty to choose from and of differnet rates that are safe.
 
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