free floated vs standard handguards

I had a DPMS AP4 when I started in 6.8, and it shot about like you mention. I installed a Hogue overmolded tube, and my groups shrank to a bit over 1". This was with handloads, as I've only shot 3 boxes of factory ammo since I started in 2012.

Kind of depends on what's causing the spread. If it's purely ammo (fmj's etc), then maybe not so much. If it's b/c of stresses you are putting (unconsciously perhaps) onto the barrel via the handguard while firing, 50% maybe, maybe more? i had a 556 that could do 1" on a good day, but with a free float - and with handloads I'll admit - I could get to < 0.5", like 0.3 - 0.4".
The shooter truly became the limiting factor.
But it is the combination of rifle configuration, technique, and ammo... it all plays a role. Of course I may be preaching to the choir but want to add this anyway.

Only way to know is to try and see what your results are. My first 6.8 was a PSA 6.8 Moe upper. I removed the front post gas block and installed a $30 gas block with a $75 free floating hand guard. The groups went from 1.25" to .75". Free floating hand guard, good trigger, lapped upper receiver and decent glass can make a big difference.

Chimera Kennels said:

If you have a gun shooting 1.5-1.75" with standard handguards, how much improvement would you expect once the same upper was free floated?

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What upper do you have?

grayfox said:

Kind of depends on what's causing the spread. If it's purely ammo (fmj's etc), then maybe not so much. If it's b/c of stresses you are putting (unconsciously perhaps) onto the barrel via the handguard while firing, 50% maybe, maybe more? i had a 556 that could do 1" on a good day, but with a free float - and with handloads I'll admit - I could get to < 0.5", like 0.3 - 0.4".
The shooter truly became the limiting factor.
But it is the combination of rifle configuration, technique, and ammo... it all plays a role. Of course I may be preaching to the choir but want to add this anyway.

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The forearm is only touching the sandbags. I have others that stack in sub-MOA, but they are free floated...but they are also stainless barrels...not CL or CHF. The barrel above with the handguards is an FN barrel, and before putting a new barrel on the rig I was curious what type of improvement is typically expected just by the FF modification. I realize that 1.5 isn't "bad," and is acceptable...but I personally like to keep things under an 1" in controlled shooting situations...as precision helps when you don't have those controlled conditions.

That's a quality barrel, I'd like to see the difference when it's free floated. Delta Team Tactical has a carbon fiber 12" tube with customizable rails for $50. I've got 2 of them, and they're strong, very lightweight, and look good.

303 HUNTER said:

That's a quality barrel, I'd like to see the difference when it's free floated. Delta Team Tactical has a carber fiber 12" tube with customizable rails for $50. I've got 2 of them, and they're strong, very lightweight, and look good.

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It is a 14.7 with a welded A2 flash hider/muzzle device. I like the A2 front sight and don't want to cut it down...which means if I FF it I would have to go with a 2 peace rail...and the only ones I can find are either...quad rails (which I do not want), drop in (are not free floated and attach to the front forearm retainer, OR cost over $300...which would pay for a barrel. LOL. So, it seems either live with it as is...or cut the A2 front sight...or replace the barrel...or spend $300...hence my question as to, what can I really expect should I opt to cut the A2 sight or spend the cash on the centurion forearm (which IMO is overpriced given how there are so many good ff forearms out there now for much less).

Chimera Kennels said:

It is a 14.7 with a welded A2 front sight. I like the A2 front sight and don't want to cut it down...which means if I FF it I would have to go with a 2 peace rail...and the only ones I can find are either...quad rails (which I do not want), drop in (are not free floated and attach to the front forearm retainer, OR cost over $300...which would pay for a barrel. LOL. So, it seems either live with it as is...or cut the A2 front sight...or replace the barrel...or spend $300...hence my question as to, what can I really expect should I opt to cut the A2 sight or spend the cash on the centurion forearm (which IMO is overpriced given how there are so many good ff forearms out there now for much less).

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I've never heard of a "welded A2 front sight". I hope that's not correct because it would be stupid. However, your muzzle device should be pinned and/or welded on. That can be overcome but you'd probably want to take it to a reputable shop to have the work done.

This is also an example / warning of why 14.5" barrels generally aren't worth the hassle.

I believe a 7" free float handguard is what you'd want with a Front Sight Post. My favorite would be the BCM KMR-A (runs about $150 if you know where to look), and that would give you something like this: http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-12-5-Upper-Receiver-Group-p/bcm-urg-12-kmr-a-7.htm

LOL...that is a typing error. It should say A2 welded flash hider/birdcage. Obviously the front sight isn't welded. My bad.

The muzzle device is welded to get an OAL of 16."

Sorry...dealing with kids, dogs, and dinner...and my mind was wondering.

I have another 14.7, and love it...pin and welded...and a 13.7 by MicroMOA pinned and welded flash hider, and it is also a tack driver...no issues. Light weight and no stamp required with the flash hider pinned and welded. Those are all .223 or 5.56 though. The 6.8 would be fine if it was just for plinking or home defense...but for reaching out there on my hunting rifle I would like groups to be half that size.

I've got 3 FN barrels from PSA. I bought them because they were cheap and it was during one of the rushes and there was nothing else available. I had low expectations. Which were greatly exceeded.

All three of my FN/PSA barrels are sub MOA with factory ammo they like.

Two of the three are sub MOA with *nearly everything* I put through them (the other one is much pickier).

One of the three is way, way sub MOA--it will put three 115gr fusions through nearly the same hole at 100 yards, i.e. a .33 inch group. It is as accurate as my precision rifles. Of course, that accuracy is totally unnecessary for what I use them for, but nice to have.

Free float hand guard is a no brainer but I'd check the ammo first. 1.75" groups out of an AR are big. Good chance the barrel just doesn'tt love the particular ammo you've put through it. I'd try different ammo and just plan on replacing the hand guard anyway.

In my experience a traditional hand guard set up is capable of 1.5 MOA and a free floated set up is capable of 1 MOA or less.

atx762 said:

I've got 3 FN barrels from PSA. I bought them because they were cheap and it was during one of the rushes and there was nothing else available. I had low expectations. Which were greatly exceeded.

All three of my FN/PSA barrels are sub MOA with factory ammo they like.

Two of the three are sub MOA with *nearly everything* I put through them (the other one is much pickier).

One of the three is way, way sub MOA--it will put three 115gr fusions through nearly the same hole at 100 yards, i.e. a .33 inch group. It is as accurate as my precision rifles. Of course, that accuracy is totally unnecessary for what I use them for, but nice to have.

Free float hand guard is a no brainer but I'd check the ammo first. 1.75" groups out of an AR are big. Good chance the barrel just doesn'tt love the particular ammo you've put through it. I'd try different ammo and just plan on replacing the hand guard anyway.

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I have a few others that are real tack drivers, and I am not giving up on this one just yet. Thanks for the info about your experience with the FN 6.8 from PSA

Is it carbine gas or mid?

TLB2 said:

Is it carbine gas or mid?

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It has the midlength gas system. Functions fine...ejects brass perfectly.

Chimera Kennels said:

It has the midlength gas system. Functions fine...ejects brass perfectly.

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Then scratch what I said about a 7" rail...that was assuming a carbine length gas system and FSP.

Cut off the front sight with a Dremel cutoff wheel then buff it smooth and install whatever free float that you want.

ATEXAN said:

Cut off the front sight with a Dremel cutoff wheel then buff it smooth and install whatever free float that you want.

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The thought has crossed my mind. I already have some cold-blue on hand. LOL. I like the A2 post sight though as it mounts directly to the barrel. While I like my free floated barrels, I never understood mounting the front sight to a tube that moves independent of the barrel UNLESS it is literally back up only and one doesn't expect precision from it. IMO, front sights should be on the barrel itself when possible. Since the gun is scoped for hunitng, a new front sight would be "back up" & I could do that...it is something I only do as last resort.

I Used a birchwood Casey flat black touch up pen when I did my PSA 5.56 upper around 3 or 4 years ago. Its worked good so far. It is right below moa with my hand loads. The fn barrels are good ones. Wish I would have jumped on one of those 14.7's when they were still around.