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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Fairly new member here, and already need help deciding whether to stay or not. Have everything except the rail and gas block set for a build to be completed, but other wants have come up and can't decide if I should finish this or move on. If I finish this one I'd like a few suggestions/helpful hints. Build parts as of now:

-Spikes Tactical Upper receiver,
-ST Lothar Walther 10.5 inch barrel in 6.8 SPSII
-ST BCG and extra bolt
-other parts are ST as well

Parts needed as mentioned above are the rail and gas block. I've got a ST micro gas block, but it's a set screw type and I really hate to have this barrel drilled for the screw. Should I get over this and have it done? Being new to 6.8's and pistol builds in general, would I be better off getting an adjustable gas block with this shorter barrel? As far as rail, it'll likely be a 9 inch Troy MLOK if I finish it out.

Lower would be finished out as a pistol with the KAK buffer tube/brace.

So what's everyone's thoughts. Any problems I expect/look for? Thanks
 

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dunno about other folks, but all the gas blocks i have are adjustable and the set screw attachment. bought the jig to drill the barrels myself, mondo nervous the first time, but it worked like a charm
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
dunno about other folks, but all the gas blocks i have are adjustable and the set screw attachment. bought the jig to drill the barrels myself, mondo nervous the first time, but it worked like a charm
I've thought about doing it myself, but have heard that the LW steel is a little more difficult to work with then your average barrel. Don't know if there is any truth to that or not though. It's also my first from scratch build so as dumb as it may sound I've not had to set the gas block before, let alone set it correct on my first time and then drill accordingly. If I go adjustable it shouldn't be a problem as I'd probably get the SLR or Superlative Arms clamp on-assuming they would fit under the rail. Is the adjustable block really needed for it to be expected to function reliably though?

Also, any thoughts on this barrel. I know the LW are supposed to be good, but anyone with firsthand experience with it?

Lastly, I'm not a reloader so everything I fire will be factory (at least for the foreseeable future. I'd like to eventually, but don't expect that to be to soon).
 

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the gas block jig is almost fool proof. it has a pointed centering screw that physically goes into the gas port, i drilled 2 barrels in just a few minutes. the jig i bought came with the bit to put into a press. worked great.

have no experience with those barrels, someone should chime in with info tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
the gas block jig is almost fool proof. it has a pointed centering screw that physically goes into the gas port, i drilled 2 barrels in just a few minutes. the jig i bought came with the bit to put into a press. worked great.

have no experience with those barrels, someone should chime in with info tho
Thanks for the info. I've got some Mega barrels/parts coming in on some other builds I'm wanting to do as well and needing some more parts-hence the reason I'm trying to decide to finish this or move on. I'll have to look up info on the jigs as I'll need to have this done on those as well.
 

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Thanks for the info. I've got some Mega barrels/parts coming in on some other builds I'm wanting to do as well and needing some more parts-hence the reason I'm trying to decide to finish this or move on. I'll have to look up info on the jigs as I'll need to have this done on those as well.
Another thing to consider is that the jig aligns the dimple perfectly with the gas port making it almost impossible to misalign the gas block. Clamp on's you are just kind of flailing around with levels and feeler gauges to get it set in the proper position. I can't imagine an LW barrel being any tougher than QPQ'd (Melonited). They are rough on a drill bit but I have done a few.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
http://brdengineering.com/

per members suggestions this is the jig i got , i only drilled the rear hole
I was just watching videos on it and think I may give it a try. I'm assuming this will work with all set screw gas blocks- the ST and a Superlative Arms that's going on a Mega build? Also is there a difference/preference on which of the 2 hole to drill if I was only doing one and setting the other?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another thing to consider is that the jig aligns the dimple perfectly with the gas port making it almost impossible to misalign the gas block. Clamp on's you are just kind of flailing around with levels and feeler gauges to get it set in the proper position. I can't imagine an LW barrel being any tougher than QPQ'd (Melonited). They are rough on a drill bit but I have done a few.
Good point that I hadn't though of.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Another thing making me consider not finishing this build is that I recently picked up a Daniel Defense V7 in 6.8. I've not shot it and actually listed it locally to raise funds for this build but had started to consider keeping it and changing the build out. Is there a big benefit to having an 18 inch barrel as opposed to the 10.5?
 

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Also is there a difference/preference on which of the 2 hole to drill if I was only doing one and setting the other?
Dimple the one directly opposite the gas port. Those dimples are there as much for gas port alignment as they are for a setscrew, probably more so. Most gas blocks whether clamp or set screw will have a hole opposite the gas port there to help with port alignment.

IMO I'd only dimple one. Hole spacing on the gas blocks car vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the rear set screw will always be directly opposite the gas port. Not having a dimple under both won't hurt a thing. Heck not having a dimple under either probably wouldn't hurt a thing, but it sure is nice for alignment and installation.
 

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What is your purpose / intent for the build? Hunting? Home Defense? Range toy/plinker?

I'd just pay someone $30 or so to pin an adjustable gas block on the barrel (my recommendation is the SLR Sentry 7). I'm generally OK using a set screw in a dimpled barrel, but if I had to go to the trouble of dimpling the barrel I'd rather just pin it. That's really the best way to secure a gas block, IMO.
 

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Dimple the one directly opposite the gas port. Those dimples are there as much for gas port alignment as they are for a setscrew, probably more so. Most gas blocks whether clamp or set screw will have a hole opposite the gas port there to help with port alignment.

IMO I'd only dimple one. Hole spacing on the gas blocks car vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the rear set screw will always be directly opposite the gas port. Not having a dimple under both won't hurt a thing. Heck not having a dimple under either probably wouldn't hurt a thing, but it sure is nice for alignment and installation.
Not just alignment but I believe that it also helps seal the block to the port better as it is pulled directly against the port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Dimple the one directly opposite the gas port. Those dimples are there as much for gas port alignment as they are for a setscrew, probably more so. Most gas blocks whether clamp or set screw will have a hole opposite the gas port there to help with port alignment.

IMO I'd only dimple one. Hole spacing on the gas blocks car vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, but the rear set screw will always be directly opposite the gas port. Not having a dimple under both won't hurt a thing. Heck not having a dimple under either probably wouldn't hurt a thing, but it sure is nice for alignment and installation.
Just what I was looking for. Only drilling 1 whole will give me less chances to screw up as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
What is your purpose / intent for the build? Hunting? Home Defense? Range toy/plinker?

I'd just pay someone $30 or so to pin an adjustable gas block on the barrel (my recommendation is the SLR Sentry 7). I'm generally OK using a set screw in a dimpled barrel, but if I had to go to the trouble of dimpling the barrel I'd rather just pin it. That's really the best way to secure a gas block, IMO.
Mainly plinking/target, but may see how it does on a hog. Was leaning toward the SLR, but was then told by a rep for another company to look at the Superlative Arms block. He claimed to have used both but preferred the SA. I've picked one of those up and may go ahead and get the SLR as well to compare.
 

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I was just watching videos on it and think I may give it a try. I'm assuming this will work with all set screw gas blocks- the ST and a Superlative Arms that's going on a Mega build? Also is there a difference/preference on which of the 2 hole to drill if I was only doing one and setting the other?
The rear screw is always aligned with the gas port in the block because that is how they access it to drill the gas port so it will work with any set screw type as long as you are just using the rear screw hole. It will work with some to do both but there is not really any need as the main purpose of the dimple is to align the block properly with the port. The front screw I always just tighten down against the barrel without dimpling it.
 
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