dent on brass
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the dent is small (3/8 inch) and is 1 inch from the top of the spent cartridge, and the dent runs perpendicular to the length of the brass.
It looks light the dent is produced by hitting something with a sharp edge on it. It looks like something that would be made if I tapped the side of the brass with a knife blade.
It looks light the dent is produced by hitting something with a sharp edge on it. It looks like something that would be made if I tapped the side of the brass with a knife blade.
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That is normal.
Cases eject around 2 or 3. Bushmaster upper. specs are: SAMI chamber, 16" barrel, commercial buffer, not sure about gas port location, carbine. I think all of this is what you are asking about. What are the options on the gas port?Tim_W said:The location of the dent is normal.
What angle is are the cases ejecting from the rifle at. 12:00 being the muzzle and 6 being well your six?
What upper is this? Specs? What buffer? gas port location? mid carbine etc..
That is what I figured as those dents are rather deep. It is from the BCG velocity being to fast and throwing that case and it hitting the edge of the port hard causing the dent. Here is how to get it back to where it belongs:
If you have only shot it a few times under 200 rounds do some hand cycling while sitting at home. This will make sure everything is smooth and loose.
Purchase a Superior shooting Systems Flat Wire Buffer Spring. They only make one that works for both rifle and carbine extensions.
Purchase a H buffer
That will bring your ejection to around 3:30-4 O'clock and as it wears is will keep it below 3:00. The farther forward it throws the harder it is cycling. Anything past 3 is to fast in general.
If you have only shot it a few times under 200 rounds do some hand cycling while sitting at home. This will make sure everything is smooth and loose.
Purchase a Superior shooting Systems Flat Wire Buffer Spring. They only make one that works for both rifle and carbine extensions.
Purchase a H buffer
That will bring your ejection to around 3:30-4 O'clock and as it wears is will keep it below 3:00. The farther forward it throws the harder it is cycling. Anything past 3 is to fast in general.
If you do a few searches on here you will see everyone that has switches to the SSS spring has found it helpful and I consider it it standard. Even if you were to cut coils to make it the same tension as a normal spring it will last over 1,000,000 cycles and more like 2x that and do3es not change in tension from heat like normal springs do where they need or should be changed out ever 4-5K at most.\
Going forward do not buy any 6.8 that does not have at the very least a SPCII or DMR chamber and preferably has a twist rate of 1:11-1:12. Ideally it should have less grooves then 6 as well as it is needed to meet the cross sectional bore area spec. But more then anything that chamber has to NOT be the original SAAMI. Actually only 2 makers even still use it. Bushmaster and Model one and I believe the second there supplies run on they will switch to. We have done enough testing to prove without a shadow of doubt how it effects perf.
Also on any 16 " you want a middy gas system not carbine. Again this has been proven much better then carbine for this barrel length
Going forward do not buy any 6.8 that does not have at the very least a SPCII or DMR chamber and preferably has a twist rate of 1:11-1:12. Ideally it should have less grooves then 6 as well as it is needed to meet the cross sectional bore area spec. But more then anything that chamber has to NOT be the original SAAMI. Actually only 2 makers even still use it. Bushmaster and Model one and I believe the second there supplies run on they will switch to. We have done enough testing to prove without a shadow of doubt how it effects perf.
Also on any 16 " you want a middy gas system not carbine. Again this has been proven much better then carbine for this barrel length
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Running through a FL sizer will not smooth it out as there is nothing in the die that runs along the inside of your case to push the walls out. Shooting the brass after you reload it may do that for you, as the case is expanded against the chamber walls. Only when a dent is overly deep or really deforms the case -- that is when I toss them. Otherwise I just process and shoot as normal.jerrmy said:
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Depending on the depth and size of a dent it could raise chamber pressures. My personal opinion is that the dents would not be an issue as long as you don't run at max loads. Possibly .1 or .2 gr below max would be just fine. Mind you I am not a ballistician or know a lot about chamber pressures but just something I would watch for.
In fireforming brass they use a reduced load and they are generally making a much larger change in the shape and volume of the case than what your dents are.
This information may be worth exactly what you are paying for it. :mrgreen:
In fireforming brass they use a reduced load and they are generally making a much larger change in the shape and volume of the case than what your dents are.
This information may be worth exactly what you are paying for it. :mrgreen:
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