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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well first it was the wire in the hammer thingy but got a new hammer coming from PSA then...

The dreaded Detent flying off to who knows where for the Pivot Pin...

So lower build is off line for now.

Roll Pins...Suck already marred the lower but it was blemished anyways. So only the "Lookticool!" value was marred.
 

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The missing parts are probably in the field, next to a missing camera. :a21:
 

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pivot pin detents, it's all fun and games until someone puts an eye out.

haven't lost one since i bought the tool, which can be made from a quater inch dowel if you're thrifty
 

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I learned years ago that I install the small pins like that with my hands and the lower inside the clear bag. I usually use a clear produce bag from the grocery store to contain the parts when (not if) they go flying. I have been known to also use a clear zip lock bag but the produce bags are a little more flexible and larger than the zip locks. A bag will save the day and the frustration of having to put your build on hold while you order 50 cents worth of parts.
 

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I sent a couple pins into low earth orbit last week.

It goes easier when you have a lot of extra parts, really inexpensive here: http://shop.tactical****.com/gun-parts?cat=291

I use a dremil and cut 1/4 inch from the rear spring and thread a 4/40 setscrew into the rear hole. Many of the better receivers are already doing that.

I can send you some of the set screws if you like.

The front one is easiest if you use a dowel or another front pivot pin and then use a small flat screwdriver to push the detent into the spring. I am putting the dowel in from the wrong side.

I actually cheat and cut 1/16 inch off the spring. Once the detent is down and under the dowel/pivot pin I push the actual detent in from the right/correct side. You have to push down and fast but it does work better than any other way I have tried.

Putting the bolt catch pin in is also trying, if it doesn't come with a threaded pin, I cover the side of the receiver with duct tape, sometimes a double layer. Then I pus the roll pin in and tap with a roll pin tool until it is flush inside. Then I install all the parts and put a punch from the other side to center the hole in the bolt catch. Then I tap the roll pin in all the way.
 

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Putting the bolt catch pin in is also trying, if it doesn't come with a threaded pin, I cover the side of the receiver with duct tape, sometimes a double layer. Then I pus the roll pin in and tap with a roll pin tool until it is flush inside. Then I install all the parts and put a punch from the other side to center the hole in the bolt catch. Then I tap the roll pin in all the way.
When I do the bolt catch I also cover the area with electrical or duct tape.
I have started wrapping the jaws of vise grips with the same tape.
Then open them to where fully closed they are the width of the bolt catch housing.
Lightly start the bolt catch pin buy pressing it in to where its just barely showing on the inside where the catch goes with the vise grips.
Say protruding .010 or so.
This allows me to position the bolt catch in place and then press the pin into position with the vise grips rather than pound it in.
ymmv
 

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When I do the bolt catch I also cover the area with electrical or duct tape.
I have started wrapping the jaws of vise grips with the same tape.
Then open them to where fully closed they are the width of the bolt catch housing.
Lightly start the bolt catch pin buy pressing it in to where its just barely showing on the inside where the catch goes with the vise grips.
Say protruding .010 or so.
This allows me to position the bolt catch in place and then press the pin into position with the vise grips rather than pound it in.
ymmv
i use the blue painters tape, cut a tooth pick and use that as the pin guide, hold everything in place, then the roll pin starter punch and drive it on in with a punch
 

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i use the blue painters tape, cut a tooth pick and use that as the pin guide, hold everything in place, then the roll pin starter punch and drive it on in with a punch
A thin piece of leather works great too. I also use a toothpick to hold everything in place and let the roll pin push it out. For detents I use a 1/4" clevis pin ($1.49 at Lowes) and have never lost one. It is a piece of cake.
 

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A thin piece of leather works great too. I also use a toothpick to hold everything in place and let the roll pin push it out. For detents I use a 1/4" clevis pin ($1.49 at Lowes) and have never lost one. It is a piece of cake.
Ahhhh, the clever clevis pin I like it!
I have one of those plastic Bushmaster tools I found someplace.
 

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Ahhhh, the clever clevis pin I like it!
I have one of those plastic Bushmaster tools I found someplace.
i have a pin with the hole drilled thru it that goes all the way thru the pin holes, and i use a 1/4" dowel for the 308 lowers, they're a tad trickier, filed a small V in the edge of the end, get the pin depressed with a small punch, insert the dowel so the v will catch the pin, rotate the dowel, make a tent with my forefinger and thumb, push pivot pin in using the dowel as the place holder and guide, even if it slips the tent made by finger and thumb contains the flying pin escape attempt
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well its finished!

PSA LPG minus FCG.

PSA enhanced trigger.

And UTG S2 Milspec with a 2 point base.

If I messed up with base plate or some thing I still got the original to use.

Seems to work alright.

Its a bit dinged and danged by damn punches.

What I learned here on my own and what people told me on this was.

1. COVER AREAS BEFORE YOU PUNCH THINGS!

2. Clever Pins work well, also there are ways to do I found later for that damn take down Detent pin, the one that went flying some where. That caused this thread.

3. I HATE ROLL PINS! And they are hollow don't ya know!

4. Birchwood Black Alunimum Paint Pen is your Friend!

One odd thing is this lower fits a lot better to my SS 1in8 heavy barrel I got from PSA a bit better. But after shaving and shaving and shaving that Acuwedge run, I think I'll keep it on that lower as its super tight and I kept the CTR on it. The Troy sight was a POS they said its suppose to wiggle, Troy that is, but put on a nice affordable (can't call it cheap because it seems to work good, still got a MAGPUL GEN 1 BUS in reserve) removable rear sight, that sort of flips but it does rear windage and elevation. After my cash crash think this will be the iron sight 5.56.

This is dinged up a bit but it functions well. Staked the base plate some how it was acting odd, Wheeler Wrench Sux, I need to find my TAPCO one. I might upgrade every thing to CTRs (nice light and clean with no "STORAGE" things to rattle things in it and add's weight because you have to use it or loose your Tacticool Card if you use the other Tacticoolier Stocks!) But the old electrical tape will keep it nice and still.

I saw on one video that says use 40 foot pounds on the castle nut for the stock. That sound right?
 

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Um, why haven't we made this a sticky note yet?

Glad as always to have the reminder, but this topic keeps coming back up for both old and new members, so maybe it should go on the look here list, as it is a $1.49 well spent....
 

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My problem with a poly lower is that the carbine buffer tube has a lip on it and it really makes it hard to get the tube to screw in straight. Any ideas?
 

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JMT makes installing the pivot pin detent pretty painless. A 3/32" punch can depress the spring and detent thru a hole. I like it.


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