6.8 SPC Forums banner
  • Hey Guest, it looks like you haven't made your first post yet. Until you make an introduction thread, the rest of the site is locked to posting. Why not take a few minutes to say hi!
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

· Moderator
Joined
·
8,980 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 3-lowers and one upper that I bought stripped to do builds with. These are my first to do and have never done them before. They are fromm RRA,Stag,and Spikes

I noticed that the coatings are different from my finished D.S. that I got whole or the Bushmaster upper that I bought complete. The color is the same but the texture is different. The D.S. is smooth matte black as well as the Bush upper. The stripped lowers and upper are black but kind of fuzzy for lack of a better description. Looks like the same coating just not finished.

What do the factories do differently? Am I supposed to dunk these in some kind of grease to smooth them out?

I know there is a step or procedure that I am missing. Thanks for the help.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,565 Posts
I'm not an expert on the teflon finishes that are common today, or the anodizing processes. I do know they can be different colors though. The last receivers I bought were two Spike's receivers from Military Gun Supply. They had Spike's, Stag, and some other brand I can't recall, maybe Aero Precision. The Spike's were black, but dry in appearance. There were two colors in the Stag box that we looked at. Some were a dark charcoal almost black gray, and the others were satin black.

My receivers changed appearance some when I applied some CLP to them. They're not glossy, but they're more of a satin black if that makes sense.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,682 Posts
some manufacturers may have a different anodizing process.... some may have an added teflon coating that gives a sateen finish for better resistance to scrapes and corrosion...
 

· Moderator
Joined
·
8,980 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes it does make sense. That is the description I was missing. The stripped receivers look dry and are black/charcoal. The D.S. and Bushy are satin colored.

So do I need to dunk these things in oil and grease? IOs there a procedure for it. I have had the D.S. out for a while and besides cleaning the bore and bcg after I fired it I did noy=thing to the outside and still has the satin look.

I am only concerned about this because I can run my nail across the recievers and the scratch. When the D.S. doesn't
Of course the scratch immediatly rubs out but I would like for it to not do it at all.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Anodizing is a process of controlled corrosion, much like blueing, but provide a porous surface akin to parkerizing (blueing of metal is just another kind of rust, FeO2, that doesn't change dimensions and prevents regular rust, FeO4). The anodized surface can be painted to desired color, but still has the porosity sa that when you put oil on the surface, it gets absorbed into the pores.

What I do when I get an anodized of parkerized gun part is to put oil in the surface and use a buffing cloth to rub it into the finish. That imbeds the oil into the pores and acts as a long term water displacer. Also on the surfaces that wear, the anodizing or parkerizing that wears down releazes the oil and lubricates the contact points.
 

· Moderator
Joined
·
8,980 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thats what I was thinking. So I am just going to blast this thing and I see Aluma-hyde 2 in there future. Thanks for all the help guys
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,045 Posts
Normally anodizing finishes are pretty durable and it's not necessary to buff them like I do. If you remove the anodizing and refinish them, you'll have to do the extra work and then make sure your refinishing sticks to the metal. The anodizing is molecularly bonded to the metal and as such hold better than painting or allumahyding it. Also, most manufacturers stick to at least type two anodizing, which is pretty thick in terms of metal finishes and it is very hard to make aluminum corrode if it's anodized. Me buffing my parts is just an extra measure.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,682 Posts
I would try the "rust prevent" in the aerosol can... just
spray it down lightly and just leave it, it will be absorbed in the surface as well as the "nooks and crannies".... :wink:
definately helps with storage too... the can also has a 1/4" straw attached to it to get in tighter spots...

the anodized receiver will absorb the paint better as well... just use brake cleaner to get the oil and grit off...
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top