[Guest]

(Sorry double posted)
I just finished reading the thread about rifle grease and lubrication and I learned some new things. Since I need to get some more cleaning solvent, I am curious to know what others are cleaning their AR's with and what they have found that really works like its supposed to.

 

[paulosantos]

militec and slip2000 both work as advertised.

 

[jasonpeterson]

militech for oil. I use butches bore shine,montana extreme, Sweet's for copper. TM works pretty good. After I run solvents I always use rubbing alcohol to remove cleaner, then a little oil. Then I run several dry patches.

 

[gdonley308]

Break the receivers apart.
I pull the BCG and get busy with CRC brake cleaner. With the LMT enhanced bolts cleaning is a breeze and they usually wipe clean! The brake cleaner is more for the carrier. Blow dry BCG with compressed air.
I clean the chamber with a oversized mop and chamber brush, then it's 2 wet mops down the bore, 3 dry patches down the bore. I either use Hopps 9 or Butches Bore Shine, don't leave either in a chrome lined bore for more than 5 minutes as they contain ammonia.
Hose out the upper receiver and bore with 1/2 can of brake cleaner, blow dry with compressed air.
1 wet patch down the bore soaked in FP-10 or Slip2000 EWL
2 dry patches down the bore
Slather the upper in Slip2000EWL, dripping wet.
Lube the bolt and carrier with a combination of MD7 and Slip2000 EWL, dripping wet
Hose out the tigger group with brake cleaner and blow dry.
Lube up trigger hammer and sear surfaces with MD7 and lube up the rest with Slip2000 EWL
Reassemble.
Total time cleaning 15-20 minutes tops. Garage stinks of brake cleaner for about an hour so don't close the garage door until the small is gone. :wink:
Everyone should read McMillan on over cleaning you can Google it very interesting stuff. :idea:

 

[pantherdude]

I like hoppes elite solvent and lube. Almost no oder on the solvent and it works pretty well. I think it cleans better than the original but that might not be saying much - I've always used hoppes.

 

[pantherdude]

By the way, hoppes elite gun oil has excellent "creep". Unless anyone has any reason for me not to use these products, I'll continue to use them. I am, however open to change.

 

[Guest]

I like hoppes elite solvent and lube. Almost no oder on the solvent and it works pretty well. I think it cleans better than the original but that might not be saying much - I've always used hoppes.

I have used Hoppes elite and Hoppes regular for the most part, both have worked fine for me. Lately I have been using Butches Bore Shine, I don't think its any better than Hoppes elite however.

 

[Guest]

Break the receivers apart.
I pull the BCG and get busy with CRC brake cleaner. With the LMT enhanced bolts cleaning is a breeze and they usually wipe clean! The brake cleaner is more for the carrier. Blow dry BCG with compressed air.
I clean the chamber with a oversized mop and chamber brush, then it's 2 wet mops down the bore, 3 dry patches down the bore. I either use Hopps 9 or Butches Bore Shine, don't leave either in a chrome lined bore for more than 5 minutes as they contain ammonia.
Hose out the upper receiver and bore with 1/2 can of brake cleaner, blow dry with compressed air.
1 wet patch down the bore soaked in FP-10 or Slip2000 EWL
2 dry patches down the bore
Slather the upper in Slip2000EWL, dripping wet.
Lube the bolt and carrier with a combination of MD7 and Slip2000 EWL, dripping wet
Hose out the tigger group with brake cleaner and blow dry.
Lube up trigger hammer and sear surfaces with MD7 and lube up the rest with Slip2000 EWL
Reassemble.
Total time cleaning 15-20 minutes tops. Garage stinks of brake cleaner for about an hour so don't close the garage door until the small is gone. :wink:
Everyone should read McMillan on over cleaning you can Google it very interesting stuff. :idea:

You have some great tech tips! I never tried using brake cleaner fluid on any of my firearms. There were times when I was cleaning an AK after about a thousand rounds of Wolf ammo thru it, I wish I would have thought of brake cleaner fluid. As for my AR's and other guns, they never see wolf ammo and get cleaned much more often. :wink:

 

[Guest]

Thanks for all the replys, they were all helpful.

 

[gdonley308]

Break the receivers apart.
I pull the BCG and get busy with CRC brake cleaner. With the LMT enhanced bolts cleaning is a breeze and they usually wipe clean! The brake cleaner is more for the carrier. Blow dry BCG with compressed air.
I clean the chamber with a oversized mop and chamber brush, then it's 2 wet mops down the bore, 3 dry patches down the bore. I either use Hopps 9 or Butches Bore Shine, don't leave either in a chrome lined bore for more than 5 minutes as they contain ammonia.
Hose out the upper receiver and bore with 1/2 can of brake cleaner, blow dry with compressed air.
1 wet patch down the bore soaked in FP-10 or Slip2000 EWL
2 dry patches down the bore
Slather the upper in Slip2000EWL, dripping wet.
Lube the bolt and carrier with a combination of MD7 and Slip2000 EWL, dripping wet
Hose out the tigger group with brake cleaner and blow dry.
Lube up trigger hammer and sear surfaces with MD7 and lube up the rest with Slip2000 EWL
Reassemble.
Total time cleaning 15-20 minutes tops. Garage stinks of brake cleaner for about an hour so don't close the garage door until the small is gone. :wink:
Everyone should read McMillan on over cleaning you can Google it very interesting stuff. :idea:

You have some great tech tips! I never tried using brake cleaner fluid on any of my firearms. There were times when I was cleaning an AK after about a thousand rounds of Wolf ammo thru it, I wish I would have thought of brake cleaner fluid. As for my AR's and other guns, they never see wolf ammo and get cleaned much more often. :wink:

I'm basicly cheap and lazy! :lol: "Gun Scrubber" doesn't do as good a good as brake cleaner, costs $6.00 a can vs CRC brake cleaner at Wally World for $3.99 or less on sale. Electrical contact cleaner use to be my favorite until they removed the Carbon Tetracloride, it would evaporate on contact, not so good for your liver and kindeys if you got it on your skin though! I will caution you not to get the brake cleaner on any plastic/polymer parts. It will also cause some condensate in high humidity so make sure to blow dry or towel dry parts right away. :wink:

 

[Test_User]

I have tested a bunch of stuff probably not all but I bet its close :lol: :lol: .

For copper hands down KG-12. If you have the time to let it sit then Wipe Out Foaming Bore Cleaner. With the products out now there is no reason to use any product that has ammonia in it. It can hurt your bore and other parts if not careful, kills brain cells but that may be a positive for some :lol: , and stinks up the entire place you are using it in.

For Carbon KG-1

For Lube SLIP2000EWL

For Grease MDLAbs XF-7

For mechanical cleaners KG-2 and JB Bore paste

For degreasing and general solvent Break Cleaner GM or Generic