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This one?


Looks a lot like this:

 
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The DYI has a hopper so you don't have to load one case at a time. I'd go crazy if I had to feed each case on the machine.

You could modify the EP with a hopper I suppose, but might as well just make the whole thing yourself then...
 

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I love mine with a passion. I've had mine probably a year and a half, and I've annealed probably 30,000 brass so far. I've annealed from 300BO to 458Lott. I've done from rimmed 7.62x54R to rebated 50 beowulf. It only takes seconds to change from one lengthbrass to another. For the price, NOTHING compares to it. Customer service before I bought it was excellent. Never needed to contact them after buying it. Unlike some other sellers, these guys actually respond to customers - or they did for me!

It would be nice to have a hopper OPTION, but I don't think I would use it. I like to watch everything and make sure it STAYS consistent. With a hopper, I'd probably walk away and miss if the flame changed intensity or something.

KJ
 

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Anyone here have experience with the EP Integrations Annealer? Are they still in business and available?

FWIW - I bought one a few months ago an I love it. I was going to buy, and I still might, Richard Bean's 3D printed kit and then build my own. But when EP Integrations runs a special, like they did for the Memorial Day, when I got mine, and like they also did for the 4th of July, and after I did the math for all the stuff and my time if I got the kit and built my own, the EP Integrations was a tad cheaper.

AS to how it works, it's well worth it. Would it be nice to have a feeding tray f sorts? Sure, but this way, manually, you can control it and not get side tracked because you can walk away for a bit.

My drum was a little tweaked when I got it. But it straightened right out. Also, if you get the EP 2.0, note, when the brass guide rod gets hot, it does expand or bend from the heat and it's own weight maybe? I just know if I had it set and it was clear, when it got hot it would rub after it got hot for a while. a little and if adjusted too close to the drum, it will rub and squeal a little. lol Just have to readjust it. So just remember if after using it a while you hear a squeal, that's what it is.

In the end, YES, I recommend it. And if you can wait, I'm sure he'll do another 15% off around Labor Day. Just keep checking his website.
 

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The DYI has a hopper so you don't have to load one case at a time. I'd go crazy if I had to feed each case on the machine.

You could modify the EP with a hopper I suppose, but might as well just make the whole thing yourself then...
Feeding each case isn't bad. Besides, you're playing with hot cases and fire. You need to and should pay attention 100% of the time. And feeding them individually makes you have to do that. Just my two cents. It isn't a big deal nor was it not having anything to feed the cases a deal breaker for me.
 

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This is the DIY kit I was talking about and still might get. But like I said, after you buy the kit and all the other stuff, motor, etc., according to my math, the EP 2.0 when on sale was cheaper.

Watch Richard Bean's youtube channel to watch it in action...


The annealer...

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I went ahead and ordered it and got it three days later (Thanks). I think it will be all I need; but I do need Propane, all I had when trying it out was Map gas and I think Map is just to hot?? I did a few pieces that looked good and thin tried playing with 450 and 650 Tempilaq and made a mess of a few old SSA.... ordered 700F Tempilaq and will work with it until I get it right.. Semple and easy to use machine and looks well made>>> time will tell ;)
 

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Temperature is very important for proper annealing. You’ll probably get differing opinions but brass should be heated just before it visibly glows.

MAP gas is about 400°F hotter than propane. MAP Plus is still a couple hundred degrees hotter. You can use MAP but you would need to decrease the amount of time your brass spends in the flame.
 
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Flame consistency was an issue when I started using the camping size bottles. During the course of annealing a lot of cases the flame would consistently change because the bottle temp cools down. As the gas to liquid level changed so did the flame.

Switching to a large 20lb BBQ tank with a longer hose helped, but the flame still altered on longer runs. Added a 20psi regulator and that made for a more consistent flame except it was too small. Finally went with a 60psi regulator and can get a much hotter and consistent flame.

The flame positioning is also very important to get the most heat transfer to the case in the shortest amount of time.
 

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Flame consistency was an issue when I started using the camping size bottles. During the course of annealing a lot of cases the flame would consistently change because the bottle temp cools down. As the gas to liquid level changed so did the flame.

Switching to a large 20lb BBQ tank with a longer hose helped, but the flame still altered on longer runs. Added a 20psi regulator and that made for a more consistent flame except it was too small. Finally went with a 60psi regulator and can get a much hotter and consistent flame.

The flame positioning is also very important to get the most heat transfer to the case in the shortest amount of time.
Spent a lot of time trying to get it just right. An AMP is one answer. Salt Bath another. Finally went that route for now.
 
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