Thanks for the guide Tim. Im sure many will use it.
-
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Barrel Cleaning Instructions (recommended)
Barrel Cleaning Instructions
Intro:
There are countless ways to clean a barrel. Some work well, others do not, and a few will damage your barrel. Cleaning a barrel incorrectly can not only not get your barrel clean of copper and carbon but damage the bore, crown, or chamber or prematurely wear the entire bore. The process below of cleaning barrels is one of the best ways and one we recommend for all barrels we produce (Xtreme) and most other barrels especially including match grade. If you have a way that works for you then by all means continue. I must say though there are a few things that are absolutely necessary and if you're current way of cleaning does not contain / properly use these items and procedures it WILL lead to barrel damage and reduced accuracy. We will not warranty any damage or performance loss from such damage. Again if you have a system and you know it works for you carry on.
You must always clean from the breech/chamber end of the barrel. Under NO circumstances should you ever clean from the muzzle end of the barrel if you can gain access to the breech / chamber. Your cleaning rod must be one piece and of proper diameter. Steel rods must have nylon or another coating that will not damage the bore. Carbon fiber and fiberglass is also good. For "in the field" cleaning a Bore Snake is acceptable and recommended.
List of Items:
* Cleaning Rod Bore Guide
* One Piece Cleaning Rod
* Cleaning Rod Stop
* Jag and Loop Ends
* Nylon Bore Brush
* Chamber Bush
* Cleaning Patches
* Copper Cleaner
* Carbon / General Cleaner
* Lubricant (Oil)
* De-greaser (no residue)
* Bore Snake
Product Recommendations:
I have used and tested most cleaning products out and these are the ones I have found to work best and as such strongly recommend them. I strongly discourage using any products containing ammonia. Its simply not necessary any more. The majority of copper removers contain ammonia. In the past it was a good choice. Things and technology has progressed and now there are cleaners that work far better than ammonia and have none of the bore damaging and negative health side effects of ammonia. Ammonia can etch (eat away) the metal in your bore leaving pits and rough surfaces and your brain cells. ( That headache and those pink elephants you see when using ammonia based cleaners are not a good thing. :shock: :wink: :idea: ) If used it should never be left in the bore for more than a few minute and must be completely cleaned out. Ammonia even given its harshness still usually requires a good amount of brushing to be effective. It needs to get under the copper to really work and only softens the thin top layer when left to work on its own. For regular cleaning mechanical cleaners such as ISSO, JB, and other bore pastes should also be avoided. Over time they will round the edges of the rifling. They will also undue the burnishing of the bores surface usually requiring a number of shots to get your barrel to settle down accuracy wise. Basically a mini break in all over again.
Products:
Carbon Cleaner: KG Products KG-1, SLIP 2000 Carbon Remover, Sharp-R-Shooters Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator
Copper Remover: KG Products KG-12 Big Bore Copper Cleaner, Sharp-R-Shooters Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator
General Cleaner: Hoppe's #9, Ed's Red
Lubricant: SLIP 2000 EWL, for the bore most good quality lubricants will work including Synthetic Motor Oil (Do not use regular motor oil as they can cause accumulation and buildup of carbon.)
Bore Guide: Number one: Lucas Guide by Mike Lucas. Others: Sinclair, Stoney Point, and others as any is better than none.
Cleaning Rod: Dewey and Tipton (always roll them on a flat surface before buying to check for straightness)
Rod Stops: Dewey or any other
De-greaser: Generic Brake Cleaner
Bore Brush: ISSO or Montana Extreme
Chamber Rod & Brush: Dewey (specifically for the AR-15)
Jags: Sinclair Int.
Bore Mops: Dewey and others
Loops: Dewey and most other brands
Bore Snake: Hoppe's
When to Clean:
Once a barrel is broken-in there is always the question of how much is enough and is there such a thing as too much. The answers are obviously as much as needed and any more than that is too much. What I have found and from doing research it seems many top shooters are also starting to gravitate towards is cleaning less not more. More or less letting your barrel dictate what is needed. There is always a base level of cleaning but for down to the bare metal squeaky clean cleanings, it is being found that reduced frequency can actually help a barrels accuracy consistency. What we suggest is that after each range session or if you choose between groups you do what you could call a MAINTENANCE CLEANING PROCEDURE. You use a Bore Snake to dislodge the heavy carbon and debris build up in the bore with the material taking it way. Putting oil in a couple of inches from the end and leaving the end dry to remove the excess oil. You can also use a standard one piece rod with oiled patch followed by possibly one pass of a nylon brush followed by a tight clean patch. Then you do a more thorough cleaning when you notice that your accuracy is starting to drop off to a unacceptable level even after that. For me when my .5 moa groups start to approach 1 moa I know it's time to do a good deep cleaning. The reason for these recommendations is that it seems every time you clean aggressively you remove some of that gray or blacken burnishing that basically seals the bore metal smoothing imperfections out. This burnishing is forumed from the carbon being basically ground into the metal pores. This is also the last step done in breaking in a new barrel. When you start using aggressive chemical and or repeated brushing it removes this. It then generally takes a certain number of shots for that coating to be laid again. Until then the rifle tends to group more erratically. It can take anywhere from 1-20 shots for this to happen. You are left with a choice either clean so often that you are giving your bullets the same clean surface shot after shot or allow it to coat so you are giving it that same surface. The big deciding factor is which environment lasts for the most number of shots and your particular type of shooting. What we and others have found is that most Br shooter that clean thoroughly do so every 10-20 shots. Allow the bore to coat you can go for hundreds of shots before the accuracy starts to drop off. You are given consistent condition significantly longer which also spells less time cleaning more time shooting. Also considering AR-15 shooting is generally much higher volume shooting than typical BR range sessions of 10-30 rounds (That's barely one mag!) it a very good match comparatively. This is not to say that the BR guys that do this have it wrong. For BR shooting where .001" variance in a group can be the difference between 1rst and 3rd this maybe what works best for them. But this is what we have found works best for AR-15 and most normal shooting conditions. Now when your barrel even after a maintenance cleaning still seems to not be shooting the groups it did in the past, it's time to get that barrel squeaky clean. It's now time to do a THOROUGH CLEANING
Steps by Step Cleaning:
Maintenance Cleaning Procedure (Bore Snake):
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Thread the bore snake's pull string from the rear of the upper receiver into the breech / chamber end out thru the muzzle end.
4: Grasp the pull string making sure to pull it as perfectly straight out of the muzzle as possible. You do not want to pull to the side or at an angel as this can wear on the crown of the barrel doing damage over time.
5: As the snake starts to enter the bore place some oil on the area before and just after the embedded brush. Make sure to leave a good portion after the brush dry to remove the excess oil.
6: Pull the bore snake completely out of the muzzle end of the barrel. Again pay close attention that you are pulling the snake out straight in line with the bore not to the side or at an angle.
7: If the bore seems excessively dirty you can repeat this one more time. Remember, you are not trying to get the barrel squeaky clean.
8: That's it.
Maintenance Cleaning Procedure (Cleaning Rod):
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Oil the mop or patch
7: Push it in the thru the bore guide and just far enough that it just exits out the muzzle. DO NOT PULL IT BACK INTO THE BORE!!
8: Once it exits, if bore mop unscrew it, if a patch remove it. Pull the rod back thru.
9: Install the nylon brush
10: Push it in thru the bore guide stopping as it just exits the muzzle
11: Unscrew the brush and pull the rod back thru
12: Install the jag with another oiled patch
13: Repeat steps 7&8
14: Place a clean dry patch on the jag and push it thru again pulling it off as it exits the muzzle. This removes excess oil
15: That's it.
Thorough Barrel Bore Cleaning:
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Soak the patch or mop with Carbon Cleaner
7: Insert it into the bore thru the bore guide .
8: When it exits the muzzle end remove the mop or patch and pull carefully back thru.
9: Repeat steps 5-8
10: Push a dry patch down the bore
11: CHOICE 1:Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator :
(Wipe out because of the time it takes to work is not recommend for actual barrel break-in cleaning but is ideal for cleaning after that is probably the best of the best after break in. You can use it it will just take more time if the bore is rough as you do not use a brush. Use the KG-12 for break-in with the procedures in the "Barrel Break-in cleaning" procedures will usually work quicker)
******1: (Make sure bore guide is installed) Install Jag if not already
******2: Soak patch with the Accelerator
******3: Insert patch into the bore thru the bore guide and out the muzzle
******4: Remove patch and pull rod back out carefully
******5: Remove Bore Guide
******6: Take Wipe-Out Foam Bore Cleaner
******7: Insert Nozzle tube into the end of the breech/chamber
******8: Depress spray button for about a 2 second count and release
******9: Lay gun down horizontally on a table
*****10: Let sit for 60 minutes
*****11: Install the bore guide back in the bore
*****12: install a jag on the cleaning rod
*****13: Using a tight fitting patch push it thru the bore.
*****14: Remove patch as it exits the muzzle and carefully pull the rod back thru.
*****15: Repeat steps 2-9
*****16: Wait 15-20 minutes
*****17: Repeat steps 11-14
*****18: Take a look at the patch if it is does not have any color of blue green or brown black on it then the barrel is completely clean.
*****19: If not repeat steps 1-18 except this time for step 10 let it sit over night.
*****20: (If you happen to be doing a barrel that has not been properly broken in was never really maintained with any regular cleaning etc if may take several session but it's very rare.
11: CHOICE 2: KG-12 Barrel Cleaning (other non-foaming cleaners)
******1: (Make sure bore guide is installed) Install Jag if not already
******2: Soak patch with KG-12
******3: Insert into the bore guide and push it out until it just exits the muzzle.
******4: Remove patch and carefully pull rod back out.
******5: Repeat steps 2-4 two more times
******6: Allow to sit for 30-60 minutes
******7: Repeat steps 2-4
******8: Using a tight fitting clean dry patch push it down the bore following the normal procedures
******9: Repeat step 8 one more time
*****10: Repeat steps 2-8
*****11: Check the patches they should be clean of indications of copper.
*****12: If brown streaks which shows the presence of copper with KG-12 go to 13: it not go to the next main step
*****13: Repeat steps 2-4
*****14: Install the nylon bore brush
*****15: insert into bore guide and down the bore
*****16: When it exits unscrew and carefully pull the rod back thru
*****17: Repeat steps 14-17 ten times
*****18: repeat steps 1-12
12: Install the bore guide it not already in the bore
13: Install jag on cleaning rod
14: Install an oiled patch on the jag and push it into the bore guide and down the bore
15: Remove patch as it exits the muzzle and carefully pull the rod back thru.
16: If you are storing your gun you may leave the bore with the excess oil in the bore if not or before you shoot the next time go to next step
17: Use a tight fitting dry patch and push it down the bore to remove excess oil.
18: Finished
Barrel Break-in Cleaning Procedures:
This is slightly different than normal in that using a brush is done automatically instead of using it as step up in aggressiveness. If you do not mind the longer wait time you can follow the normal cleaning instructions for Wipe-Out Foaming Cleaner if you wish. It is a very good product.
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Soak the patch or mop with Carbon Cleaner
7: Insert it into the bore thru the bore guide.
8: When it exits the muzzle end remove the mop or patch and pull carefully back thru.
9: Repeat steps 5-8
10: Push a dry patch down the bore
11: Install Jag if not already
12: Soak patch with KG-12
13: Insert into the bore guide and push it out until it just exits the muzzle.
14: Remove patch and carefully pull rod back out.
15: Repeat steps 2-4 two more times
16: Install the nylon bore brush
17: Insert into bore guide and down the bore
18: When it exits unscrew and carefully pull the rod back thru
19: Reinstall brush and repeat 16-18 5-10 more times
20: Install the jag and push a tight patch down the bore
21: Repeat steps 12-14
22: Install the jag and push a tight patch down the bore it should come out without brown streaks (indications of copper)
23: If still shows copper repeat 12-22 until no copper is indicated
24: Push an oiled patch down the bore followed by a tight fitting dry patch to remove excess oil
25: Go to the next shooting step in your barrel's break-in procedure
NOTE: When you get to the burnishing part of break-in you switch to one of the Thorough Barrel Bore Cleaning Procedures and then finally for the last 10 shots switch or finish up with one of the Maintenance Cleaning Procedures.
All the above procedures were written to attempt to cover everyone but some barrels need less and some more cleaning. Let your barrel dictate the amount you need to clean. You may not need to wait as long or may not need as many strokes or maybe more of one of both of those. I have seen many a match barrel that needed only a wet patch and a 5 min wait followed by two clean patches and it was clean. Point being how your barrel reacts should dictate your cleaning.
Intro:
There are countless ways to clean a barrel. Some work well, others do not, and a few will damage your barrel. Cleaning a barrel incorrectly can not only not get your barrel clean of copper and carbon but damage the bore, crown, or chamber or prematurely wear the entire bore. The process below of cleaning barrels is one of the best ways and one we recommend for all barrels we produce (Xtreme) and most other barrels especially including match grade. If you have a way that works for you then by all means continue. I must say though there are a few things that are absolutely necessary and if you're current way of cleaning does not contain / properly use these items and procedures it WILL lead to barrel damage and reduced accuracy. We will not warranty any damage or performance loss from such damage. Again if you have a system and you know it works for you carry on.
You must always clean from the breech/chamber end of the barrel. Under NO circumstances should you ever clean from the muzzle end of the barrel if you can gain access to the breech / chamber. Your cleaning rod must be one piece and of proper diameter. Steel rods must have nylon or another coating that will not damage the bore. Carbon fiber and fiberglass is also good. For "in the field" cleaning a Bore Snake is acceptable and recommended.
List of Items:
* Cleaning Rod Bore Guide
* One Piece Cleaning Rod
* Cleaning Rod Stop
* Jag and Loop Ends
* Nylon Bore Brush
* Chamber Bush
* Cleaning Patches
* Copper Cleaner
* Carbon / General Cleaner
* Lubricant (Oil)
* De-greaser (no residue)
* Bore Snake
Product Recommendations:
I have used and tested most cleaning products out and these are the ones I have found to work best and as such strongly recommend them. I strongly discourage using any products containing ammonia. Its simply not necessary any more. The majority of copper removers contain ammonia. In the past it was a good choice. Things and technology has progressed and now there are cleaners that work far better than ammonia and have none of the bore damaging and negative health side effects of ammonia. Ammonia can etch (eat away) the metal in your bore leaving pits and rough surfaces and your brain cells. ( That headache and those pink elephants you see when using ammonia based cleaners are not a good thing. :shock: :wink: :idea: ) If used it should never be left in the bore for more than a few minute and must be completely cleaned out. Ammonia even given its harshness still usually requires a good amount of brushing to be effective. It needs to get under the copper to really work and only softens the thin top layer when left to work on its own. For regular cleaning mechanical cleaners such as ISSO, JB, and other bore pastes should also be avoided. Over time they will round the edges of the rifling. They will also undue the burnishing of the bores surface usually requiring a number of shots to get your barrel to settle down accuracy wise. Basically a mini break in all over again.
Products:
Carbon Cleaner: KG Products KG-1, SLIP 2000 Carbon Remover, Sharp-R-Shooters Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator
Copper Remover: KG Products KG-12 Big Bore Copper Cleaner, Sharp-R-Shooters Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator
General Cleaner: Hoppe's #9, Ed's Red
Lubricant: SLIP 2000 EWL, for the bore most good quality lubricants will work including Synthetic Motor Oil (Do not use regular motor oil as they can cause accumulation and buildup of carbon.)
Bore Guide: Number one: Lucas Guide by Mike Lucas. Others: Sinclair, Stoney Point, and others as any is better than none.
Cleaning Rod: Dewey and Tipton (always roll them on a flat surface before buying to check for straightness)
Rod Stops: Dewey or any other
De-greaser: Generic Brake Cleaner
Bore Brush: ISSO or Montana Extreme
Chamber Rod & Brush: Dewey (specifically for the AR-15)
Jags: Sinclair Int.
Bore Mops: Dewey and others
Loops: Dewey and most other brands
Bore Snake: Hoppe's
When to Clean:
Once a barrel is broken-in there is always the question of how much is enough and is there such a thing as too much. The answers are obviously as much as needed and any more than that is too much. What I have found and from doing research it seems many top shooters are also starting to gravitate towards is cleaning less not more. More or less letting your barrel dictate what is needed. There is always a base level of cleaning but for down to the bare metal squeaky clean cleanings, it is being found that reduced frequency can actually help a barrels accuracy consistency. What we suggest is that after each range session or if you choose between groups you do what you could call a MAINTENANCE CLEANING PROCEDURE. You use a Bore Snake to dislodge the heavy carbon and debris build up in the bore with the material taking it way. Putting oil in a couple of inches from the end and leaving the end dry to remove the excess oil. You can also use a standard one piece rod with oiled patch followed by possibly one pass of a nylon brush followed by a tight clean patch. Then you do a more thorough cleaning when you notice that your accuracy is starting to drop off to a unacceptable level even after that. For me when my .5 moa groups start to approach 1 moa I know it's time to do a good deep cleaning. The reason for these recommendations is that it seems every time you clean aggressively you remove some of that gray or blacken burnishing that basically seals the bore metal smoothing imperfections out. This burnishing is forumed from the carbon being basically ground into the metal pores. This is also the last step done in breaking in a new barrel. When you start using aggressive chemical and or repeated brushing it removes this. It then generally takes a certain number of shots for that coating to be laid again. Until then the rifle tends to group more erratically. It can take anywhere from 1-20 shots for this to happen. You are left with a choice either clean so often that you are giving your bullets the same clean surface shot after shot or allow it to coat so you are giving it that same surface. The big deciding factor is which environment lasts for the most number of shots and your particular type of shooting. What we and others have found is that most Br shooter that clean thoroughly do so every 10-20 shots. Allow the bore to coat you can go for hundreds of shots before the accuracy starts to drop off. You are given consistent condition significantly longer which also spells less time cleaning more time shooting. Also considering AR-15 shooting is generally much higher volume shooting than typical BR range sessions of 10-30 rounds (That's barely one mag!) it a very good match comparatively. This is not to say that the BR guys that do this have it wrong. For BR shooting where .001" variance in a group can be the difference between 1rst and 3rd this maybe what works best for them. But this is what we have found works best for AR-15 and most normal shooting conditions. Now when your barrel even after a maintenance cleaning still seems to not be shooting the groups it did in the past, it's time to get that barrel squeaky clean. It's now time to do a THOROUGH CLEANING
Steps by Step Cleaning:
Maintenance Cleaning Procedure (Bore Snake):
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Thread the bore snake's pull string from the rear of the upper receiver into the breech / chamber end out thru the muzzle end.
4: Grasp the pull string making sure to pull it as perfectly straight out of the muzzle as possible. You do not want to pull to the side or at an angel as this can wear on the crown of the barrel doing damage over time.
5: As the snake starts to enter the bore place some oil on the area before and just after the embedded brush. Make sure to leave a good portion after the brush dry to remove the excess oil.
6: Pull the bore snake completely out of the muzzle end of the barrel. Again pay close attention that you are pulling the snake out straight in line with the bore not to the side or at an angle.
7: If the bore seems excessively dirty you can repeat this one more time. Remember, you are not trying to get the barrel squeaky clean.
8: That's it.
Maintenance Cleaning Procedure (Cleaning Rod):
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Oil the mop or patch
7: Push it in the thru the bore guide and just far enough that it just exits out the muzzle. DO NOT PULL IT BACK INTO THE BORE!!
8: Once it exits, if bore mop unscrew it, if a patch remove it. Pull the rod back thru.
9: Install the nylon brush
10: Push it in thru the bore guide stopping as it just exits the muzzle
11: Unscrew the brush and pull the rod back thru
12: Install the jag with another oiled patch
13: Repeat steps 7&8
14: Place a clean dry patch on the jag and push it thru again pulling it off as it exits the muzzle. This removes excess oil
15: That's it.
Thorough Barrel Bore Cleaning:
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Soak the patch or mop with Carbon Cleaner
7: Insert it into the bore thru the bore guide .
8: When it exits the muzzle end remove the mop or patch and pull carefully back thru.
9: Repeat steps 5-8
10: Push a dry patch down the bore
11: CHOICE 1:Wipe-Out Foaming Bore Cleaner + Accelerator :
(Wipe out because of the time it takes to work is not recommend for actual barrel break-in cleaning but is ideal for cleaning after that is probably the best of the best after break in. You can use it it will just take more time if the bore is rough as you do not use a brush. Use the KG-12 for break-in with the procedures in the "Barrel Break-in cleaning" procedures will usually work quicker)
******1: (Make sure bore guide is installed) Install Jag if not already
******2: Soak patch with the Accelerator
******3: Insert patch into the bore thru the bore guide and out the muzzle
******4: Remove patch and pull rod back out carefully
******5: Remove Bore Guide
******6: Take Wipe-Out Foam Bore Cleaner
******7: Insert Nozzle tube into the end of the breech/chamber
******8: Depress spray button for about a 2 second count and release
******9: Lay gun down horizontally on a table
*****10: Let sit for 60 minutes
*****11: Install the bore guide back in the bore
*****12: install a jag on the cleaning rod
*****13: Using a tight fitting patch push it thru the bore.
*****14: Remove patch as it exits the muzzle and carefully pull the rod back thru.
*****15: Repeat steps 2-9
*****16: Wait 15-20 minutes
*****17: Repeat steps 11-14
*****18: Take a look at the patch if it is does not have any color of blue green or brown black on it then the barrel is completely clean.
*****19: If not repeat steps 1-18 except this time for step 10 let it sit over night.
*****20: (If you happen to be doing a barrel that has not been properly broken in was never really maintained with any regular cleaning etc if may take several session but it's very rare.
11: CHOICE 2: KG-12 Barrel Cleaning (other non-foaming cleaners)
******1: (Make sure bore guide is installed) Install Jag if not already
******2: Soak patch with KG-12
******3: Insert into the bore guide and push it out until it just exits the muzzle.
******4: Remove patch and carefully pull rod back out.
******5: Repeat steps 2-4 two more times
******6: Allow to sit for 30-60 minutes
******7: Repeat steps 2-4
******8: Using a tight fitting clean dry patch push it down the bore following the normal procedures
******9: Repeat step 8 one more time
*****10: Repeat steps 2-8
*****11: Check the patches they should be clean of indications of copper.
*****12: If brown streaks which shows the presence of copper with KG-12 go to 13: it not go to the next main step
*****13: Repeat steps 2-4
*****14: Install the nylon bore brush
*****15: insert into bore guide and down the bore
*****16: When it exits unscrew and carefully pull the rod back thru
*****17: Repeat steps 14-17 ten times
*****18: repeat steps 1-12
12: Install the bore guide it not already in the bore
13: Install jag on cleaning rod
14: Install an oiled patch on the jag and push it into the bore guide and down the bore
15: Remove patch as it exits the muzzle and carefully pull the rod back thru.
16: If you are storing your gun you may leave the bore with the excess oil in the bore if not or before you shoot the next time go to next step
17: Use a tight fitting dry patch and push it down the bore to remove excess oil.
18: Finished
Barrel Break-in Cleaning Procedures:
This is slightly different than normal in that using a brush is done automatically instead of using it as step up in aggressiveness. If you do not mind the longer wait time you can follow the normal cleaning instructions for Wipe-Out Foaming Cleaner if you wish. It is a very good product.
1: AR-15 break open the upper by pulling the rear receiver pin
2: Remove the charge handle and bolt carrier group
3: Insert the Bore Guide
4: Set the rod stop so that it allow the end of the rod to just exit the muzzle
5: Install a bore mop or jag
6: Soak the patch or mop with Carbon Cleaner
7: Insert it into the bore thru the bore guide.
8: When it exits the muzzle end remove the mop or patch and pull carefully back thru.
9: Repeat steps 5-8
10: Push a dry patch down the bore
11: Install Jag if not already
12: Soak patch with KG-12
13: Insert into the bore guide and push it out until it just exits the muzzle.
14: Remove patch and carefully pull rod back out.
15: Repeat steps 2-4 two more times
16: Install the nylon bore brush
17: Insert into bore guide and down the bore
18: When it exits unscrew and carefully pull the rod back thru
19: Reinstall brush and repeat 16-18 5-10 more times
20: Install the jag and push a tight patch down the bore
21: Repeat steps 12-14
22: Install the jag and push a tight patch down the bore it should come out without brown streaks (indications of copper)
23: If still shows copper repeat 12-22 until no copper is indicated
24: Push an oiled patch down the bore followed by a tight fitting dry patch to remove excess oil
25: Go to the next shooting step in your barrel's break-in procedure
NOTE: When you get to the burnishing part of break-in you switch to one of the Thorough Barrel Bore Cleaning Procedures and then finally for the last 10 shots switch or finish up with one of the Maintenance Cleaning Procedures.
All the above procedures were written to attempt to cover everyone but some barrels need less and some more cleaning. Let your barrel dictate the amount you need to clean. You may not need to wait as long or may not need as many strokes or maybe more of one of both of those. I have seen many a match barrel that needed only a wet patch and a 5 min wait followed by two clean patches and it was clean. Point being how your barrel reacts should dictate your cleaning.
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
thanks.
There is so much info out there and much of it conflicting it can be confusing at best. Seems many things in the firearms industry are this way :roll: I figured this would help give some direction of ways we have found work very well.
There is so much info out there and much of it conflicting it can be confusing at best. Seems many things in the firearms industry are this way :roll: I figured this would help give some direction of ways we have found work very well.
This one and the barrel break-in post should be made stickies.
they are :wink:jamesb74 said:This one and the barrel break-in post should be made stickies.
Thanks. This will come in handy when I get my Titan Xtreme upper in I just ordered. Or the RRA that will be here sometime next year 
OK, I am waiting for my extreme and figured I would get the proper cleaning equipment as recommended by Tim. In the past I used an Otis system (shotguns / rifles) and patchworm for my .22' rimfires. I have only been shooting a few years, so suffice to say I am a novice on proper cleaning.
So I ordered the Lucas bore guide, which is great. Now I ordered the one piece rod that my bore guide is made for. I purchased the Tipton carbon fiber .22 to .26 caliber rod.
I had read Tim's post to check if for roundness. So I place it on the table and roll the rod it is not perfectly straight - it had some curve. If you hold it up to your eye and turn it you can see it is slightly curved. It is not alot, but I am wondering if these rods are known for that, or if I should send it back and get it replaced. I am sure it is tough to get carbon fiber perfectly straight in that small diameter. I am a detailed person and want to make sure I wont damage my upper.
Let me know what you experts have found and / or would recommend I do.
Thanks,
So I ordered the Lucas bore guide, which is great. Now I ordered the one piece rod that my bore guide is made for. I purchased the Tipton carbon fiber .22 to .26 caliber rod.
I had read Tim's post to check if for roundness. So I place it on the table and roll the rod it is not perfectly straight - it had some curve. If you hold it up to your eye and turn it you can see it is slightly curved. It is not alot, but I am wondering if these rods are known for that, or if I should send it back and get it replaced. I am sure it is tough to get carbon fiber perfectly straight in that small diameter. I am a detailed person and want to make sure I wont damage my upper.
Let me know what you experts have found and / or would recommend I do.
Thanks,
If I'm going to buy a Tipton rod and Lucas bore guide which rod size should I get? Can I buy a .22 to .26 and use it in both 5.56 and 6.8 bores or do I need the .27 to .45 for the 6.8?
Also what is the best length rod to get with 16" barrels?
Also what is the best length rod to get with 16" barrels?
I am a novice, but I asked Mike Lucas - Lucas Bore Guides and he said the .22 to .26 should be fine for 6.8. The length of rod I ordered was 36" which should be Ok, because the bore guide is about 8" long or so.
With respect to the bore guide, you can buy one for 5.56 and one for 6.8, and only buy one insert for the rod that will work in both bore guides. That will save you a bit.
Again, you will want to get some expert opinion, like I was trying to do. I sent the rod back. I shouldn't have to deal with a rod that was curved from the start.
With respect to the bore guide, you can buy one for 5.56 and one for 6.8, and only buy one insert for the rod that will work in both bore guides. That will save you a bit.
Again, you will want to get some expert opinion, like I was trying to do. I sent the rod back. I shouldn't have to deal with a rod that was curved from the start.
That is true. I always try to buy my rods in-person which is not always possible. When I do I always roll them on a flat surface to check if they are out of round
This was re-posted on a local gun site and the product recommendations are SUPER helpful. Just wanted to say thanks for your research!
Hammered[/QUOTE said:Reported as spam
You beat me... that is what happens when I go have lunchReported as spam
Let me get this right. To break-in a new barrel, one must follow the break-in regimine which often involves shooting one shot, cleaning and repeatinig this process for 5 to 10 shots, then shoot maybe 3 shots for 5 times and cleaning between each 3 shot session. So lets add up the time to break-in a barrel.
Shoot one shot (3 seconds, 4 if you slow down for a six pack of beer)
Clean - About 12 minutes
Repeat 5 times equals one hour of cleaning. If 10 shots, then two hours of cleaning.
Shoot string of three shots (15 seconds because you're slow)
Clean - About 12 minutes
Repeat 5 times equals another hour of cleaning.
So, at minimum you'll need two to three hours of cleaning time to break-in the barrel. Now all this assumes one can have such an environment and equipemnt and table and space that facilitates cleaning at the range. If not, then you'd have to take the gun home between shots and clean it there. Wow! Has anyone else ever considered the implications of these procedures in the real world?
Daniel
Shoot one shot (3 seconds, 4 if you slow down for a six pack of beer)
Clean - About 12 minutes
Repeat 5 times equals one hour of cleaning. If 10 shots, then two hours of cleaning.
Shoot string of three shots (15 seconds because you're slow)
Clean - About 12 minutes
Repeat 5 times equals another hour of cleaning.
So, at minimum you'll need two to three hours of cleaning time to break-in the barrel. Now all this assumes one can have such an environment and equipemnt and table and space that facilitates cleaning at the range. If not, then you'd have to take the gun home between shots and clean it there. Wow! Has anyone else ever considered the implications of these procedures in the real world?
Daniel
Considering most do this procedure lovingly of their new high end barrel. I'm sure they've thought about that little labor of love and done it. I've done it in the past and it wasn't a huge issue. Nice stress free day at the range away from the kids weeeee.
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Yup I do it to mine all the time, our DDM's do it to the issued guns when they first get them....Wow! Has anyone else ever considered the implications of these procedures in the real world?
Daniel
it may take a little bit but if it helps smooth things out then its worth it...
Good way to look at it.
Daniel
I've never followed the "break-in" procedures with such attention. I still have sub 1/2 inch groups in both 6.8 rifles. From a theoretical perspective, these "break-in" procedures seem to be predicated upon and relegated to a concatenated structure of theory (a collection of observations with lots of antidotal evidence in support and in refutation and no means of empirical testing). No one can prove it works because each event (barrel cleaning and all other intervening and spurious variables that can be conjured up) is a singularity and can't be "done over" again to test the idea that the "break-in" is producing the results. A diachronic comparison couldn't be performed for the same reason.Considering most do this procedure lovingly of their new high end barrel. I'm sure they've thought about that little labor of love and done it. I've done it in the past and it wasn't a huge issue. Nice stress free day at the range away from the kids weeeee.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Daniel
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