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Ar-10 knowledge needed

9024 Views 39 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  floridajpr
So my brother in law has asked me to build him an AR-10. I've done several 15's but I don't really know much about the 10. I realize that they go together similarly to the 15. What I'm looking for is some information about armalite vs DPMS patterns (which is better and why?) what's up with Palmetto States PA10 and is is compatible with either the DPMS or Armalite?

This rifle will be in .308 and used for hunting sometimes and as a longer range toy. So I'm thinking nothing more than a 20" barrel. I know there is some commonality in parts between the 10 and 15 but where does it stop? I've built about a dozen AR-15's of various calibers and configurations so I'm good there, but do I need any specific tools for the AR-10?

School me guys!! Thanks!
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First off the AR-10 is Armalite, quality but more expensive and not as many options. You want to build a large frame AR 308!

Looks at my AR 308 builds,

http://68forums.com/forums/showthread.php?57826-All-New-AR-308-build-under-5-5-pounds

http://68forums.com/forums/showthre...08-build-should-be-4-5-pounds&highlight=AR308

I would wait for the labor day sales on receivers, and recommend the Juggetnaut Tactical 20 inch fluted 5R 308 barrel.

If you are military, LEO or veteran be sure to ask for discounts, usually 10%
similarity for parts is pretty much restricted to the lower, i.e. trigger, hammer, pins. detent pins and springs, fire control selector, buffer stop and spring, bolt catch plunger and spring. everything else is unique to the lower you buy. PSA stuff is DPMS pattern, and my experience with 2 PA10's is poor fit between the upper and lower. similarity in the upper seems to be DPMS pattern uppers all take DPMS style BCG.

i just finished a Falkor Defense build, very nice stuff but pricey, very pricey. i also just finished an Aero Precision M5E with a 16" barrel. i used Ballistic Advantage barrels in both of them, working on 2 additional Aero Defense M5E's as well. i really like the Aero melonite bcg, i put a FailZero Bcg in the Falkor. i used armalite buffers,extensions,and buffer springs in all 4 of them.

right now parts are hard to source, at least that's what i found out. the Falkor, Aero, and Mega all fit together tight, but they all seem to have their own unique parts list, the good thing is the unique parts are not something you'll be changing often.

that's all i know about them, cept put an adjustable gas block on em
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Breastroker your lightweight builds are awesome!! And the receiver sets you use are amazing!!

This is going to be an interesting learning process, parts sourcing, and building experience! Thanks for the information!

As as far as assembly goes, and specific tools I'm gonna need?
crayj is right. I recommend getting both an upper and lower from the same company. The 2A Xanthos is the lightest by far but expensive. I really like my Tactical Machining receiver set, the price was good.

Most of the last 6 months anything related to AR10/AR308 have been sold out as people have found they can build a much lighter 308 rifle that the heavy 9-10 pound safe queens of companied before. I always laugh when some big company announces they have a 8 pound AR 308, or even their super light 16 inch models at 7.5 pounds. The AR308 is the "New Barbie for Men"

The most important items are the barrel and the receiver set. Get light weight ones and you can use everything else normal weight and still be under 7 pounds.

Musts for 308s are an adjustable gas block and the POF roller carrier pin.

Really the only tools you need is a barrel nut wrench, and depending on the hand guard it may be specific to the company. They don't make a upper receiver lapping tool yet. There are blocks on eBay that hold the upper both top and bottom, sideways in a vice. These work for both Ar15 and AR308s. Or easier is just take the upper and barrel plus nut to a gun smith and for less than the cost of tools they will do it usually under $35. I did it that way for my first couple of builds.

Using light weight aluminum take down pins or titanium ones as well as the gas block are ways to save weight with just a little more cost over other premium parts.

To expound on crayj
used armalite buffers, extensions, and buffer springs in all 4 of them.
the shorter carbine DPMS pattern gas tube requires shorter and MUCH more expensive buffers. POF Company (DPMS pattern) and Armalite uses longer 7 position buffer tubes that allow regular AR15 buffers with a huge assortment of weights and quality, all half the price of an AR308 buffer.
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I would recommend dpms, it seems to more options available. I started to put a ar-10 together now. I would recommend an aero upper and lower. No issues so far. what ever set you get I recommend to buy there parts kits too. Aero ar-10 receivers don't use roll pin they use hex screws which seems to work out a little better.

As for what parts are interchangeable, I took my time and tried the part from spare parts I have to confirm and test fits.



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I did a PSA in 6.5 Creedmoor. Upper and lower went together really nice. I did ALL AR15 parts, minus the BCG of course, to see what does/doesn't work. Here's what I found out:
- The bolt catch release for an AR15 is a bit smaller, but the plunger and spring are identical. The only problem here is that the bolt won't hold open unless there's a mag in. I ran it like this for quite a while, as it didn't bother me.
- The mag catch button spring is just slightly smaller for an AR15, but it works without any issues. It just pulls the mag catch in a little more than what it should be. With the correct spring, the mag catch looks more flush.
Most of the time an AR15 bolt catch will work in an AR308 receiver. The V7 light weight super strong AR15 bolt catches work perfect in my 308 receivers, your results may vary.

There are differences in AR15 bolt catches, some as little as a couple of thousandths differences in the height above the receiver. Recently built a nice rifle with a sweet ARP Scout 16 inch barrel. But that darn bolt catch just didn't work all the time.

Fortunately I have several light weight and regular "mil-spec" bolt catches and the New Frontier billet receiver had a screw in bolt catch pin. Measured a slightly higher bolt catch and all was great again.
The aero precision are nice. Their pivot / takedown pins are specific to their recievers slightly different diameters I believe. Befor buying hg make sure if your reciever is high or low profile as dif hg will line up gas tube different.

Breastroker the bolt coming back super fast with lighter carriers sometimes rides over bolt catch before it is fully sprung up to catch it, try either a weaker buffer spring or find a stronger spring for bolt catch. I've had that issue a lot trying to tune light bcg systems in my pistol gas sbrs, u must be riding the line on nearly full functionality if it's working most of the time.
PSA take down and pivot pins are also specific to just their lower
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NEVER build an AR308 without an adjustable gas block

I should mention I would NEVER build an AR308 without an adjustable gas block.

A standard weight AR 308 BCG and buffer/spring acts like a sledge hammer! The AR 15 in comparison is a ball peen hammer.

But by using a light weight BCG and buffer (with adjustable gas block) it acts much closer to an AR15. HUGE difference.

The accuracy with the 130 Mk319 ammo really improved with the lighter titanium carrier. Before the 3-5 shot groups were one inch or larger. With the lightest BCG the accuracy was closer to half an inch.





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PSA take down and pivot pins are also specific to just their lower
Technically correct... however, the standard 308 pins work, they'll just stick out a bit. It's funny that some people (like me) will pay extra for "extended" takedown pins, however you get the same thing by using 308 pins in a PSA lower. So, if you're a fan of the easier pull on the pins, stick with the 308 pins. I've never changed mine out to the PSA specific pins.
I also run a standard "non-adjustable" gas block with a Sprinco Orange. Runs like a top.
Technically correct... however, the standard 308 pins work, they'll just stick out a bit. It's funny that some people (like me) will pay extra for "extended" takedown pins, however you get the same thing by using 308 pins in a PSA lower. So, if you're a fan of the easier pull on the pins, stick with the 308 pins. I've never changed mine out to the PSA specific pins.
the PSA takedown pins i had were shaped like an AR15 takedown pin, a round head take down pin which Aero, Falkor and Mega use, would not extend all the way thru the PA10 when trying to assemble it. might as well use duct tape
the PSA takedown pins i had were shaped like an AR15 takedown pin, a round head take down pin which Aero, Falkor and Mega use, would not extend all the way thru the PA10 when trying to assemble it. might as well use duct tape
I'm not talking PSA AR15 pins, I'm talking standard AR308 pins. They lock up tight in a PSA 308 lower. Unless you're saying the PSA 308 pins wouldn't work in a different lower? Here's mine, that I've been running for quite a while.

Gun Firearm Trigger Airsoft Airsoft gun
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their first lower pivot pin, seen from the detent side was 1/2 moon shaped, like an AR15 pin, the only way you could have used a round end pin would be to grind it off so it had a flat side. perhaps their lowers are different now, i had 2 of the PA10 upper and lower combos, both fit like a yugo door, loose and sloppy.

and the take down pins are round headed, it's the pivot pin head which is 1/2 moon shaped like an ar15 pivot pin. had a senior moment and mistyped
I knew I was going to have to learn a lot and research before I did this build. These differences are great to know up front from guys who have actually built guns! Thanks guys! I've read and bookmarked a bunch of stuff so far!
Several PSA lower parts are proprietary so it's smart to do the research and use the correct parts. Other 308 and AR15 parts may work but they could also fail at the worse possible moment. You also need to research what lowers will actually work with PA10 uppers. Some will not. I made the mistakes right away when I built my first PA10 lower. Use a PA10 LPK and you'll never have problems. If not into possible, unexpected problems when you are building an AR10 platform rifle you must realize right away that most have proprietary parts that need to be used for a correct fit and function. If you are into jerry rigging stuff together hoping it will fit right go for it. What will generally happen is you'll end up spending more money down the road trying to fix it.

PA10: Bolt catch, mag catch/release, take down pins are all proprietary. Use other parts and you risk failure and poor fit. Their design also uses the same roll pin secured bolt catch an AR15 uses (bolt catch is not AR15 and stronger). If you buy a DPMS 308 LPK the bolt catch threaded attachment included will not work the pins are different, the bolt catch is different and the mag catch are different. Basically, you pretty much wasted your money.
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It's amazing how much information is on this forum. You get nothing but crap at the AR308 forums.

Great guys here, they know their stuff.
If 80% lowers are an option, I've had good results with the JMT poly lower. They mate up nice and tight with a AP M5 upper. I like the DPMS "high" platform. Phase 5 Tactical bolt catch are nice, along with a extended mag release button. If you use a AP M5 upper, their extended pivot and takedown pins are a plus. IMO, once you go 80%, you wont want to go back. No problem using a DPMS lpk in the JMT lower, except you'll need to get a bolt catch roll pin (cheap) instead of the threaded one that comes with the kit.
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