200 yd zero, for coyotes, hold on hair out to ~350. Any farther than that, Good luck anyway. That dog's probably moving too fast to hit.
150 Yard Zero - Works w/ both the .223 / 5.56 & the 6.8 SPC-II | |
25 Yards | 1.25" hold over |
50-175 Yards | Shoot POA, as POI deviation is within 1" of POA, most being LESS THAN 0.5" |
200 Yards | 2" hold over |
250 Yards | 6" hold over |
300 Yards | 12" hold over |
350 Yards | 20" hold over (22 for the 6.8) |
400 yards | 30" hold over (34 for the 6.8) |
100 YARD ZERO | | 200 YARD ZERO | ||
.223 / 5.56 | 6.8 SPC-II | | .223 / 5.56 | 6.8 SPC-II |
25 yards: 1.25" over 100 yards: POA 175 yards: 1.6 over 200 yards: 3" over 250 yards: 7" over 300 yards: 13" over 350 yards: 21" over 400 yards: 32" over | 25 yards: 1.4" over 100 yards: POA 150 yards: 1" over 175 yards: 2" over 200 yards: 3.7" over 250 yards: 8" over 300 yards: 15" over 350 yards: 24" over 400 yards: 36" over | 25 yards: 1" over 50 yards: POA 75 yards: 1" over 100-150 yards: 1.6 over 175 yards: 1" over 200 yards: POA 250 yards: 3" over 300 yards: 8.5" over 350 yards: 16" over 400 yards: 26" over | 25 yards: 1" over 50 yards: POA 75 yards: 1.3" over 100-150 yards: 2" over 175 yards: 1" over 200 yards: POA 250 yards: 3.6" over 300 yards: 9.4" over 350 yards: 18" over 400 yards: 29" over |
I saw that method mentioned in a recent NRA article, but I didn't like it as much because it doesn't account for shooter error or wind drift. To use that method, you have to be one heck of a shooter...because when your POI is at the top of the kill zone, you can only error on the bottom...and vise-versa for when you are at the bottom.You could use the mrd/mpbr method also.
For no more than 4" rise and 4" drop (considering an 8" vital zone ) if you were to zero at 264 yards then your mpbr would be 296 yards without having to adjust for drop or rise. Also showing a cross of 3.2" high at 100 yards .---- for my load of course.
To each his own-- Lots of ways to figure a "zero" each would be dependant upon what is being hunted, where you are hunting, and the shooters preference.
That's pretty much the way I do it, too. If something is under 100, or past the MPBR, you can always use the turret to move a couple clicks up or down. Close in, though, its just as easy to hold a bit low.You could use the mrd/mpbr method also.
For no more than 4" rise and 4" drop (considering an 8" vital zone ) if you were to zero at 264 yards then your mpbr would be 296 yards without having to adjust for drop or rise. Also showing a cross of 3.2" high at 100 yards .---- for my load of course.
To each his own-- Lots of ways to figure a "zero" each would be dependant upon what is being hunted, where you are hunting, and the shooters preference.
Actually, if you do it right, you can hold in the center of the zone, and your shot will be within the zone whether up or down. That's the whole point of point blank range. You can also figure in a fudge factor by making the zone a bit smaller than it actually is to allow for aiming mistakes, etc. For example, if the zone is 12", use a 10" diameter when figuring your max point blank range. That won't affect the range that much, but it gives you some error room if you are off a bit.I saw that method mentioned in a recent NRA article, but I didn't like it as much because it doesn't account for shooter error or wind drift. To use that method, you have to be one heck of a shooter...because when your POI is at the top of the kill zone, you can only error on the bottom...and vise-versa for when you are at the bottom.
As I understood it, with that method your POA (point of AIM) is always the center, but the POI (point of IMPACT) moves up and down within the kill zone. When the POI is at the top...should you shoot just an inch or two high, then you could be out of the kill zone...and vise versa for when the POI is at the bottom. As a result, you are fine with POA and POI are close...but when the deviation between them approaches the edge of the kill zone you don't have any room for a less than perfect steady shot.Actually, if you do it right, you can hold in the center of the zone, and your shot will be within the zone whether up or down. That's the whole point of point blank range.
Understood...the method is simple...and effective when a person is an excellent shot and also makes their shots in ideal situations with steady rests and such, but I think it limits range too much when things are not perfect. Using your example, adjusting the POA to keeps the POI in the center gives one a range of 6" of error (12 / 2 = 6). Using the mrd/mpbr method, even with a fudge factor of 2" (which must be divided by 2 to split each side of the target)...you end up with only 1" margin of error. As a result, the shooter's range with the mrd/mpbr method is now restricted to being able to keep the shot within just 1 inch. Not 1 MOA...but literally 1" at all distances that are close to the edge of the zone. At 260-300 yards, I cannot guarantee my shot will be within 1" (less than 1/2 MOA), especially when in the field hunting. Too many factors are going on...and animals move. As a result, the shooter's range is limited a good bit in comparison to adjusting your POA to keep your POI in the center.You can also figure in a fudge factor by making the zone a bit smaller. For example, if the zone is 12", use a 10" diameter when figuring your max point blank range....That won't affect the range that much, but it gives you some error room if you are off a bit.
I always carry one with me and use it frequently. If I'm in a new location, I use it as soon as I set-up to determine distances to trees, rocks, etc. so I know what the engagement ranges are ahead of time. Even at my stand, the ranges go from 160 to 330 and even out to 500 yards in 180 degrees. You need to know range precisely if you are going to take long range shots even with a .270 or .300 Win Mag. When hunting out West for elk or pronghorn, I have found it impossible to reliable estimate range because of varying terrain and vegetation, e.g., a mix of trees or shrubs of different heights or no shrubs at all. The closest shot I have had was this year and was 200 yards on an elk, all others have been 300 to 400 yards. The pronghorn I harvested this year was my longest hunting shot at 450 yards. The range finder is around my neck before I start in the morning and is relied upon in these types of hunting conditions. I have a mountain sheep hunt next month and the range finder will be a must-have for long range and up-hlll/down-hill shots.Just curious, how many folk use a range finder when hunting?
MPBR is a method that is designed to use the ballistics of the cartridge to determine max range. One, muzzle velocity and bullet weight establish the base line. Two, ballistic coefficient determines the trajectory. Three, those combine to determine how much energy is available at every step along the flight path of the bullet. If it takes 800 ft-lb to kill a deer then the point you fall below that amount is max range part. The second part is what the trajectory determines. If the kill zone is 12", then the bullet has to travel no more than 6" above or below the line of sight. That may shorten the max range figure depending on the caliber, or it may extend the range beyond the energy point. If the rise and fall gives you a max range of 500 yds, for example, but the energy requirement stops at 350 yds, then your max point blank range is 350 yds. That's the theory.As I understood it, with that method your POA (point of AIM) is always the center, but the POI (point of IMPACT) moves up and down within the kill zone. When the POI is at the top...should you shoot just an inch or two high, then you could be out of the kill zone...and vise versa for when the POI is at the bottom. As a result, you are fine with POA and POI are close...but when the deviation between them approaches the edge of the kill zone you don't have any room for a less than perfect steady shot.
Understood...the method is simple...and effective when a person is an excellent shot and also makes their shots in ideal situations with steady rests and such, but I think it limits range too much when things are not perfect. Using your example, adjusting the POA to keeps the POI in the center gives one a range of 6" of error (12 / 2 = 6). Using the mrd/mpbr method, even with a fudge factor of 2" (which must be divided by 2 to split each side of the target)...you end up with only 1" margin of error. As a result, the shooter's range with the mrd/mpbr method is now restricted to being able to keep the shot within just 1 inch. Not 1 MOA...but literally 1" at all distances that are close to the edge of the zone. At 260-300 yards, I cannot guarantee my shot will be within 1" (less than 1/2 MOA), especially when in the field hunting. Too many factors are going on...and animals move. As a result, the shooter's range is limited a good bit in comparison to adjusting your POA to keep your POI in the center.
Am I missing something?
The 150 yard zero seems to offer the benefits of the mrd/mpbr method for ranges less than 175 or even 200 yards...should one not adjust the POA...and only requires adjustment of POA out past 200. With the mrd/mpbr method and no adjustment to POA, you better be able to shoot about 1/2 MOA on your long shots and do so in uncontrolled conditions on moving game. I cannot do that.
I broke your quote into three parts....If the kill zone is 12", then the bullet has to travel no more than 6" above or below the line of sight...
...your skill is the determining factor. MPBR allows you to just aim and shoot...
...I'm old fashioned enough that I don't believe in extreme long range hunting, as seems to be the trend today.
The 200 yard zero works pretty well for that. Depending on your scope height and actual velocity from your barrel (length), you will probably be around 2.2-2.4" high from 100-140...and about 2.2-2.4 low at 230 yards. If you are okay with being 2.2-2.4" off in what may be your most common range, then that is fine. If you are shooting at deer and point at the heart, you will always get the heart or lungs with the 200 zero when you take shots that are below 200 yards...and then aim at the lungs when you are at 230, which you said was your max range...and all is good.Can one of you smart folks recommend a zero distance for me? Longest shot on my place is 230 yards and I'm trying to find the best zero for 0-230 where I don't have to do anything other than put the crosshairs on the chest and pull the trigger. I did the 50/200 with 120 SST and am just wondering if that is still the best method.