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I definitely considered this option (it's still not completely off the table). The big horn is a good price, but the barreled action would eat up nearly all my budget.
Custom DIY Figures:
$900 for the Origin and Bolt w/PPC Head shipping included.
$380 + ship for a Xcaliber SS Plain Jane 1:9 chambered.
$230 + ship for a Magpul Hunter
$200 + ship Sunny Hill bottom metal
Pretty sure you can do better on those prices in sales and with free shipping.
That leaves $20 for a Trigger.
For $134 you can get a Rifle Basix Remington L-1K Kit 1.5lbs-4lbs pull – Hunting Trigger with Safety. This puts you $114 over your budget.

If you can't swing it I get it. If you can? I'm pretty sure you'll be very glad you did.

I was already thinking about a Origin myself. Now you have me thinking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Custom DIY Figures:
$900 for the Origin and Bolt w/PPC Head shipping included.
$380 + ship for a Xcaliber SS Plain Jane 1:9 chambered.
$230 + ship for a Magpul Hunter
$200 + ship Sunny Hill bottom metal
Pretty sure you can do better on those prices in sales and with free shipping.
That leaves $20 for a Trigger.
For $134 you can get a Rifle Basix Remington L-1K Kit 1.5lbs-4lbs pull – Hunting Trigger with Safety. This puts you $114 over your budget.

If you can't swing it I get it. If you can? I'm pretty sure you'll be very glad you did.

I was already thinking about a Origin myself. Now you have me thinking...
Everytime I get ready to start this build something comes up to distract my time and money. Since posting this thread I've had a flood in the home office, my partner in my soap business attempt to, and nearly has, shut that down and in my regular construction company, a contractor seriously screw me over. On top of all that, I'm doing a full remodel of my home.

All this has really cost me, but I am going to continue to plug away on this build regardless. I ran similar numbers to what you posted. I may accumulate all these parts over a longer time frame. If I can't get it done by next spring, I still would like something for next fall's hunting season. I think I can get a walnut stock and bottom metal for a bit less money? I may have to throw something together for a few hundred dollars to satisfy my want and keep this build simmering on a side burner. I would like this build to come out a nice classic old school style hunting rifle and not cut to make corners.
 

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I would like this build to come out a nice classic old school style hunting rifle and not cut to make corners. = $$$$$
A modified .223 bolt head to fit the SPC case? Maybe $25.00. Chambered barrel? Maybe $300/$400. That's a far cry from ...
Custom DIY Figures:
$900 for the Origin and Bolt w/PPC Head shipping included.
$380 + ship for a Xcaliber SS Plain Jane 1:9 chambered.
$230 + ship for a Magpul Hunter
$200 + ship Sunny Hill bottom metal
It's your $$$ so spend it how and where you want. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
A modified .223 bolt head to fit the SPC case? Maybe $25.00. Chambered barrel? Maybe $300/$400. That's a far cry from ...
Custom DIY Figures:
$900 for the Origin and Bolt w/PPC Head shipping included.
$380 + ship for a Xcaliber SS Plain Jane 1:9 chambered.
$230 + ship for a Magpul Hunter
$200 + ship Sunny Hill bottom metal
It's your $$$ so spend it how and where you want. ;)
Sorry, what I was trying to say in my semi-coherent rambling post, I just might build two. One inexpensive for the spring hunt, and the other, take my time and make it exactly what I want. Two is always better than one 😛
 
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Sorry, what I was trying to say in my semi-coherent rambling post ???
Sounds to me like you're just thinking out loud. ;)
If it was me, I'd go cheap with #1 and see how I liked the finished product. No telling what you'll like and not like and want to change, if and when you get to #2. :)
 

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Has anyone used the blind mag or box mag from a Savage for 6.8? What caliber mag did you modify? I modified my AICS mag from a .224 mag to 6.8, but I don’t see either of the box or blind mags in .224. I would think this would be the biggest hurdle as the bolt and barrel are a piece of cake.
 

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Easiest way is to use a 223 and spread the feed lips a little. That's what I did with my Savage detachable mags. The 308 based magazines work, but they don't have the block that comes in the 223 mag. They might be better if you load heavy VLD bullets long. Here's both:
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Sounds to me like you're just thinking out loud. ;)
If it was me, I'd go cheap with #1 and see how I liked the finished product. No telling what you'll like and not like and want to change, if and when you get to #2. :)
I agree with Nor Cal Mikie, with all that going I would go inexpensive and scratch that itch. I am in the same boat. This covid crap has hammered us. But we don't need light hunting rifles, so we're good.

As things get better (I hope) I'm going to be able to start with option 2. Using the Origin as the basis for a switch barrel hunting rifle starting with 6.8 Western and 6.8 SPCII. Then add other Short Action caliber/cartridges that I enjoy and a new one. Something in the in the .338. Maybe the Sherman Max.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Easiest way is to use a 223 and spread the feed lips a little. That's what I did with my Savage detachable mags. The 308 based magazines work, but they don't have the block that comes in the 223 mag. They might be better if you load heavy VLD bullets long. Here's both:
View attachment 73360
View attachment 73361

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Did you make the spacer block or is that a stocks Savage part? How do both magazines feed?

I have read the thread you posted, I couldn't tell from reading it, if Breaststroker or anyone else ever got the issues with feeding from a blind mag fully sorted out. There was talk of using the magazine spacer, Magpul followers, reversing the leaf spring and bolt baffles. I know most people that have a blind mag are content with loading at single shot. I would like to get this rifle to reliably feed with a full magazine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
View attachment 73362
Here is my LH Savage with ARP 6.8 barrel. Based on a Tactical that started as a Creedmoor. Shoots lights out.
It looks good 👍🏻
What are you using for a magazine? What modifications were needed to convert it from a Creedmoor?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 · (Edited)
I agree with Nor Cal Mikie, with all that going I would go inexpensive and scratch that itch. I am in the same boat. This covid crap has hammered us. But we don't need light hunting rifles, so we're good.

As things get better (I hope) I'm going to be able to start with option 2. Using the Origin as the basis for a switch barrel hunting rifle starting with 6.8 Western and 6.8 SPCII. Then add other Short Action caliber/cartridges that I enjoy and a new one. Something in the in the .338. Maybe the Sherman Max.
Besides ARs in .223 and 6.8, the only thing we have in between them and 308 Win for small caliber/short action, is a .243 Win Axis that doesn't shoot like it used to. My wife has a .270 Win. Now you got me thinking... it's easier to justify building two if they are a his and hers 6.8, left and right handed...

It's far easier finding right handed donor rifles. I could get all the logistics sorted on a right handed action, she definitely will not tolerate any cycling issues, then collect what I need for this build along the way.

It would make her happy to have something with a little less recoil when it's not necessary. As she is all too fond of saying, "If mamma is not happy, no one is happy".
 

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It looks good 👍🏻
What are you using for a magazine? What modifications were needed to convert it from a Creedmoor?
It is a 224 Valkyrie AICS mag. Just had to build a shim out of DeraLin to take the length up some. There is a post on here that covers all the mods. Search 68 savage build. PTG sells bolt heads and it is a simple swap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I've decided to move forward on the first build with an Axis in 243 win that's been collecting dust in the safe as my donor rifle. I know the axis action and the 10/110 are a little different, I think it's mostly how the magazine is fitted. Does anybody know if the blolts themselves are different? What baffle, the spacer behind the bolt head, would I need? A .223 or 224V or are they the same?
 
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I could be wrong but I think the only difference in the action is the trigger. I’m pretty sure the bolt is the same. I think you would just need the bolt head itself. I would call PTG when ordering the 6.8 bolt head. They were very helpful when I ordered mine.
 

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The .223/.224v baffle limits the rearward travel of the bolt so unless you modify your mag to limit your 6.8 rounds to the front of the mag, you can have a situation where your bolt will not have enough rearward travel to pick up the next round. Stick with the baffle that you have if you leave the mag in stock condition.
 
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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
The .223/.224v baffle limits the rearward travel of the bolt so unless you modify your mag to limit your 6.8 rounds to the front of the mag, you can have a situation where your bolt will not have enough rearward travel to pick up the next round. Stick with the baffle that you have if you leave the mag in stock condition.
Thank you. I went to go pick up a .223 magazine yesterday and after calling ahead to confirm they had it (the guy said he had it in his hand) when I arrived there were none to be found. I think whoever I talk to may have decided to keep it. I'll make do with what I have for now.

If I have time, I'll be ordering a barrel tomorrow or at the latest next week. I've decided on standard 6.8 SPC 1:10 because it will be for my wife and she'll mostly be shooting off-the-shelf ammo. If need be, I can always run a reamer through it.

I still haven't decided if the barrel length should be 18" or 20". The rifle balance well now with what measures 19"-ish.
 
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