moboy56, is the case length be max? I've limited experience reloading the 300 WM.
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300 Win Mag case problem
O.k i have a 300 WM i bought used. Rem 700, 5R rifling, MDT Stock, Leupold Mk 4 etc. accuracy is fine. i'm reloading for it and ALL the brass i have loaded for it, (ALL) have been shot in that gun. i was FL sizing but decided to just neck size. both FL and Neck size dies are Hornady. Load data is 68.5 H100V under 175 OTM at 3090 fps. no pressure signs, in fact the load is at least 1 grain under max. The problem is two fold. One, with the neck sized brass some of them i can barely close the bolt on. bare in mind this is the brass that was fired in that chamber. i know it's not loaded too long because i just chamber the brass, no bullet. if i take that piece of brass and FL size it, slides in like butter.
Second: sometimes after i fire a round the brass sticks in the camber, i can take something and tap the bolt and it pops out with the extractor just fine but it needs help. some do not stick. with this issue it doesn't seem to make any difference if the brass is FL or Neck sized. i have 3 brands of brass, PPU, Fed. and Rem. doesn't seem to be any difference what make of brass, all have issues at times. looking for knowledge, since this is my first .300. i keep my neck sized and FL sized separate.
Second: sometimes after i fire a round the brass sticks in the camber, i can take something and tap the bolt and it pops out with the extractor just fine but it needs help. some do not stick. with this issue it doesn't seem to make any difference if the brass is FL or Neck sized. i have 3 brands of brass, PPU, Fed. and Rem. doesn't seem to be any difference what make of brass, all have issues at times. looking for knowledge, since this is my first .300. i keep my neck sized and FL sized separate.
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Try the belted mag collet resize die. It helps keep the brass around the belt from building up causing cases to stick.
http://www.larrywillis.com
http://www.larrywillis.com
i knew i would forget something, no the cases are trimmed after every firing.moboy56, is the case length be max? I've limited experience reloading the 300 WM.
Ok just so that I understand right you used to FL size, and now you are only necksizing? If that is true you still need to bump the shoulders on on bolt rifles back .002. This allows you to chamber the round with ease, and still maintain minimal sizing and precision.
As for the sticky case. It's possible that you could have some "funk" in your chamber. Give it a light cleaning. Second, you are using three different cases and all of which can have different internal capacities. Thicker cases produce more pressure at the same charge weight. So that might be the issue. If it is possible use the same manufacture of brass with the same amount of firings. The reason I say the same amount of firings is because 300wm brass can get sticky when it gets work hardened.
As for the sticky case. It's possible that you could have some "funk" in your chamber. Give it a light cleaning. Second, you are using three different cases and all of which can have different internal capacities. Thicker cases produce more pressure at the same charge weight. So that might be the issue. If it is possible use the same manufacture of brass with the same amount of firings. The reason I say the same amount of firings is because 300wm brass can get sticky when it gets work hardened.
certainly worth looking into, i knew someone on here would have an answer,, it also discussed why neck sizing doesn't always work.Try the belted mag collet resize die. It helps keep the brass around the belt from building up causing cases to stick.
http://www.larrywillis.com
I've always found neck sized cases to be tough to close the bolt on. Nothing to worry about. That's the nature of the beast. That's why most adjust full length dies to get a .001-.002" shoulder bump. That way you get the best of both worlds.
Your issue with extraction is the fact that it is a Remington. A few years ago they changed something and now there is no primary extraction. Do a google search on the issue and read on. It seems that you hear about it most with the belted magnums.
i do separate the brass by brand, but not too vigilant on how many times they've been fired. and i didn't bump the shoulder on neck sized brass. thanks for the advice, i've never loaded anything this big and i'm betting some cases are work hardened like you said. also i'm starting to get case separation just above the belt, all have extracted, but cracked and had to be discarded. do you think that's from work hardened or sized wrong? can't tell you if those were FL or just neck sized. but i lose some every time i shoot a batch.Ok just so that I understand right you used to FL size, and now you are only necksizing? If that is true you still need to bump the shoulders on on bolt rifles back .002. This allows you to chamber the round with ease, and still maintain minimal sizing and precision.
As for the sticky case. It's possible that you could have some "funk" in your chamber. Give it a light cleaning. Second, you are using three different cases and all of which can have different internal capacities. Thicker cases produce more pressure at the same charge weight. So that might be the issue. If it is possible use the same manufacture of brass with the same amount of firings. The reason I say the same amount of firings is because 300wm brass can get sticky when it gets work hardened.
This. Easy to tell, just mic above the belt. I use this exact die for 257wby, 7mm RM and 300 WM. The die is nice, if you just drop the case in the top of the fire, it has a way to check to see if it will fit or need to be sized.Try the belted mag collet resize die. It helps keep the brass around the belt from building up causing cases to stick.
http://www.larrywillis.com
SHM
All belted mags Headspace just above the belt and it's probably right where your crack is. You will see see work hardening on the case mouth and will neck tension, but nothing down above the belt. If you can find some new Winchester or Hornady brass and start fresh I would go that route. Your charge weight is like you said below max, and I would bet your issues revolve around the brass. My 300 has a case that gets stuck once in a great while and it's usually when I have been shooting rounds faster than I normally do, like during a compotetion. Probably a little chamber swell.i do separate the brass by brand, but not too vigilant on how many times they've been fired. and i didn't bump the shoulder on neck sized brass. thanks for the advice, i've never loaded anything this big and i'm betting some cases are work hardened like you said. also i'm starting to get case separation just above the belt, all have extracted, but cracked and had to be discarded. do you think that's from work hardened or sized wrong? can't tell you if those were FL or just neck sized. but i lose some every time i shoot a batch.
Hi Ho Silver Away!!!:a26:Sorry.
My bad
Silver
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