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It's probably the lightweight bullets. You may need to drill the port out to .093(3/32")
I thought about that but since Brazos Jack was shooting them successfully, I thought maybe something else was causing it. I will try the different block and see if that does anything first. Guess I better try to order some good drill bits and pray I don't snap one off! Drilling thru melonite treatment does not fill me with confidence LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #122
The hole is already there enlarging it is like drilling through butter.
 

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I have some butter in the fridge that could be slipped into a sock and it would knock out a mule. I also have some soft whip.... :D I guess I could drive to San Angelo tomorrow and buy a good carbide drill and give it a shot. The wise thing is to probably to buy some heavier bullets which is what you designed it for in the first place but I often have to be different!

These days, when it comes to powder, and just about anything else, you buy whatever is in stock.
 

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I tried a few different bullets in varying weights with a few different powders. Here is what I tried...

270MSR

90 Speer Gold Dot .253
2.200"
*10X-33.3 =3070
10X- 34.5 = 3250

110 Sierra Pro Hunter .318
2.265"
A2460- 34.9 = 2868

110 Hornady Bthp .360
2.200"
A2460- 34.9 = 2920
H4895- 35.7 = 2984

115 Speer Gold Dot .401
2.200"
10X- 32.2 =2873
Xterm- 34.5 =2913
H4895- 35.0 =2870

130 Berger Hvld .462 (#27501)
2.285"
34.4 -H4895 -2784fps
34.0 -A2460 -2767fps
 

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Got in a regular gas block today and took off the AGB. Looking at the AGB outside in good light, I saw what appeared to be a very faint powder trail inside the block. Rather than loctiting the AGB, I went ahead and swapped to the regular block and loaded about four cases with a couple tenths of a grain less powder. They locked back shooting single rounds.

They had been ejecting around 4 o'clock and with the regular block, they moved to about 5. At this moment, I think may have fixed it. I have company coming in so I need to put everything away until I can get back to playing with it again next week. My next step is to determine why running new brass thru the sizer pushes the shoulder back more than it does on fired brass. Right now, it appears I need to set the die to expand the neck only without touching the shoulder on all the new brass. Then on the brass that has been shot, I will need to turn the die in a bit more to get the shoulder where it needs to be after firing...

I appreciate the suggestions and I am not surprised that Harrison, as usual, is almost always right when he talks about gas leaks. I just hate to glue it down until I know I am not going to be taking it apart again as its no fun trying to move it--blue loctite, or not.

On the Tac 30 that I bought from a member, he and I both were having to set the shoulder back 10 or a 11 thousandths to get it to chamber without sticking in the chamber. After a couple of days muttering "This ain't right", I grabbed a bcg out of one of my 6.8's and the problem went away and I could push the shoulder back .004" and everything was good. I'm guessing that the carrier is the problem but have not chased the problem any further. Now I am going to start over and trim up some new brass that has not been worked so hard. I may not know what I am doing, but, I am happy to make some progress :D
 

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I see some mentioned they were using CCI 450's. I am using CCI 41's because that is the only srp magnums I have and I could not find anything else available online.
 

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I'm considering jumping into the 270 msr. What primers are recommended?
I am using CCI 450. Build one and join the FUN! The 270 MSR goes to the field with me EVERY time I go. It may not be the only rifle in the truck, but it IS there.

It will be my primary for Deer in a few weeks, loaded with 130 Accubonds.
 

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I never found a need for magnum primers, with the powders I like to use. Depends on the type of powder you're using, I suppose. I generally use Federal GM205AR primers, but will use CCI#41 occasionally.
 

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I have used CCI 450's, Winchester Match, CCI BR4's and Federal 205's. My setup prefers the BR4's. Your results may vary.

I shoot 130gr Winchester SP the most, but during testing I tried 110 Hor, 130 Berger, 145 Hor. and 120gr SST. I was consistently able to get better groups with BR4's.
 

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I am considering getting 270 msr,I have lots of once fired and new 6mm br Norma brass.Can it be used to make 270 msr,.If so what are the steps involved?Would using Whidden hydro forming die for dasher help?
 

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Looking for a starting load for leverevolution and 130s leverevolution seems good in the 270ar
And I have on hand any help appreciated
 

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Just thought I’d give a rundown of what I do with my .270 AR and my .270 MSR. All my lowers are set up with H3 buffers and Tubbs flat wire buffer springs. All my DI uppers are set up with SLR Sentry 7 adjustable gas blocks. All uppers and lowers (6.8 spc, 7.62x39, .270 AR, .270 MSR, .358 YETI) all run mix and match just fine. This has resulted in most of these gas blocks being set from 7 to 9 clicks out. So obviously I could do the same with all H2 or H1 buffers or maybe even carbine buffers with the gas blocks adjusted fewer clicks out.

For the .270 AR (18” bbl) and .270 MSR (20” bbl) I use all small primer brass and CCI450 primers. For bullets 100gr and heavier, I use TAC. It seems to be a hair slower than 8208. My 8208 max loads ran ½ grain less powder and around 100 fps slower than my TAC loads. I like the Cavity Back 105gr for deer. I have to run one grain less of TAC in the .270 MSR but with its two inch longer barrel both chronograph right around 3050 fps.

This is just the way I do it. I think these cartridges are both easy and flexible to load for. So there is no right or wrong way.
 
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