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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up a 270AR barrel a couple months ago, and now trying to get things together for it. I know 6.5x47 brass works for it, but I came across a thread where H said 6 Dasher brass would work. However, I came across a thread on another forum that said it won't work, the brass is something like .050" short. So will Dasher, or even F-class Dasher (.050" longer) work?
 

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Watching the response since I don't know the answer. I tried to make it from Starline Creedmoor. Shoulder wrinkled on me. It's easy to form the Lapua brass. Starline may work if annealed. Lapua brass comes from the factory annealed.
 

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Dasher brass is too short. the trim length on the 270ar is 1.646 dasher brass before you expand it is 1.600 roughly and when expanded to 7mm is 1.580-1.585 so 270 may be 1.590-1.595 that is .050 too short unless you want to run with a very short neck. considering the neck on the 270 is .240 take .050 from that then you are left with a .190 neck.

any 308 case head brass will work to convert you just have to adjust your loads for the difference in case capacity
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks biggdawg. Apparently I thought the F-class brass was .050" longer than normal Dasher brass, when it isn't, oh well. Looks like I'll be using 6.5x47 brass. Maybe I'll just deal with you when the time comes.
 

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Thanks biggdawg. Apparently I thought the F-class brass was .050" longer than normal Dasher brass, when it isn't, oh well. Looks like I'll be using 6.5x47 brass. Maybe I'll just deal with you when the time comes.
the f class dasher is .050 longer than standard BR brass which is around 1.550 case length the original dashers were the 6br with a 40 deg shoulder and the shoulder blown forward. that took some neck away from them the f class adds some neck back but chambers have to be cut to use the new brass unmodified. but this brass does work for some of the wildcats like my valkyrie it ends up .010 short but is the right length after a fire or 2.
 

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Has anyone tried the Starline small primer Creedmoor brass yet? Just wondering before I give Powder Valley more cash for Lapua brass.
 

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As I recall, someone on the Facebook group did try Starline Creedmoor without success. Kept getting creases in the shoulder, I think. I'd confirm for you but I can't access FB right now.
 

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That was me. When I tried it, it took a lot of force to form the brass and always came out wrinkled. I heated up a case in an attempt to anneal but didn't really anneal the case very well since I've never done it before. But that almost worked and and didn't require as much force. So, I think it will work with Starline. You'll just need to anneal the case first.
 

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Thanks a lot for the advice, I'd rather spend less on brass since when I hunt with my 270AR the brass ends up lost out in the woods anyway. I have 200 pieces of Lapua brass for range time. I hate loosing that stuff.
 

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270AR brass from 6MMGT

I picked up 100 pieces of 6MMGT brass and converted to 270AR. What a breeze compared to converting 6MM Lapua, .243, or Creedmore.

The brass has a headstamp of 6mmGT GAP, uses small primers, and came annealed.

All that was needed was to run it through the 270AR resizing die and trim to length. Guessing it took less than an 90 minutes start to finish to convert with lost ZERO pieces in the process. Measurement of OD dimensions after sizing are identical to measurements of once fired and resized Lapua brass, so in my opinion, no post converting fire forming will be needed prior to load workup.

I did not fill with water to determine case capacity, but instead filled with a a free flowing powder (CFE 223) and compared the weight of a case full from the GT brass to the weight of a case full from the once fired resized Lapua. The GT brass holds right at 2 grains more. The converted GT brass weighs about10 grains less than converted Lapua.
 

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Creedmoor brass formed has more case capacity but cannot handle the pressure that Lapua can and will not last as long. I'm guessing that 6GT brass will be close to the same as Creedmoor. You really have to be careful reloading swapping back and forth between brass that has 2 gr difference in case capacity.
I made the 270AR a long time ago, the Dasher and 6GT brass was not available back then or I would have done it differently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Creedmoor brass formed has more case capacity but cannot handle the pressure that Lapua can and will not last as long. I'm guessing that 6GT brass will be close to the same as Creedmoor. You really have to be careful reloading swapping back and forth between brass that has 2 gr difference in case capacity.
I made the 270AR a long time ago, the Dasher and 6GT brass was not available back then or I would have done it differently.
Would Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor small rifle primer be better, or not really? I have some and was thinking of converting it to 270AR, hoping to gain a little over the 6.5x47 I have.
 

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Creedmoor brass formed has more case capacity but cannot handle the pressure that Lapua can and will not last as long. I'm guessing that 6GT brass will be close to the same as Creedmoor. You really have to be careful reloading swapping back and forth between brass that has 2 gr difference in case capacity.
I made the 270AR a long time ago, the Dasher and 6GT brass was not available back then or I would have done it differently.
The importance of case capacity differences and how the difference affects load development is well understood on this end. I mentioned the case capacity difference as it is a significant factor when reloading. I do recall the Creedmore had more capacity than Lapua, but think it unwise to use max Creedmore data without working up to it from about 10% below max.

My understanding about Creedmore brass longevity was a reduced life due to primer pockets becoming loose. If I recall, max Creedmore powder charges were slightly heavier and slightly faster than Lapua loads.

I have not had a chance to do load development with the GT brass, but generally do not go for max, but try to find accurate without showings signs of pressure. The 270AR and 270MSR are both 6.8 on steroids, so there is really little need to go overboard when reloading (IMHO).

I already have pet loads for 110 Accubonds and 130 Fusions with Lapua. When time permits, load workup for those two projectiles will be done with the GT brass.
 

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Would Lapua 6.5 Creedmoor small rifle primer be better, or not really? I have some and was thinking of converting it to 270AR, hoping to gain a little over the 6.5x47 I have.
I have not sliced the cases to see but I would put money on Lapua being stronger/thicker at the bottom just like the rest of the Lapua brass.
 
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