Probably gonna want some type of sights whether its scope, red dot, or buis. And make sure to check headspace with that bolt/barrel.
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.223 Wylde build list help
Building my 1st upper and trying to do it on a budget using decent quality inexpensive parts. Basically starting from scratch. I've been a machinist for over 11 years and always do my own gunsmithing but have not built an upper yet. Any advice on missing tools or parts and better deals would be appreciated.
PTG lapping tool $28
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-t...ool.html?search_query=Lapping+tool&results=13
Probably going to face it on a lathe though.
Upper vise block $23
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?...d=p3984.m1497.l2649&_mwBanner=1&ul_noapp=true
Torque wrench $24
Amazon
Dpms armorer's wrench $25
http://www.primaryarms.com/dpms-ar15-m16-armorers-multi-tool-tl-mw
Roll pin punch set $12
Amazon
Roll pin starter set $5
Amazon
Hammer $8.50
Amazon
Aero gas tube $15
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/gas-tube-stainless-steel.html
Lo pro gas block $30
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
ARP barrel $185
Spikes a2 and washer $10
http://www.righttobear.com/Spike-s-Tactical-A2-Flash-Hider-5-56-p/safh510.htm
Carbon fiber handguard $60
https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Carbon-fiber-Free-Float-Hand-Guard-12-Rifle-length-_p_4182.html
Aero upper with bcg and charging handle $175
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/ar15-assembled-upper-556-bcg-stnd-charging-handle-bundle.html
PTG lapping tool $28
http://pacifictoolandgauge.com/ar-t...ool.html?search_query=Lapping+tool&results=13
Probably going to face it on a lathe though.
Upper vise block $23
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?...d=p3984.m1497.l2649&_mwBanner=1&ul_noapp=true
Torque wrench $24
Amazon
Dpms armorer's wrench $25
http://www.primaryarms.com/dpms-ar15-m16-armorers-multi-tool-tl-mw
Roll pin punch set $12
Amazon
Roll pin starter set $5
Amazon
Hammer $8.50
Amazon
Aero gas tube $15
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/gas-tube-stainless-steel.html
Lo pro gas block $30
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/750-lo-pro-gas-block.html
ARP barrel $185
Spikes a2 and washer $10
http://www.righttobear.com/Spike-s-Tactical-A2-Flash-Hider-5-56-p/safh510.htm
Carbon fiber handguard $60
https://www.deltateamtactical.com/Carbon-fiber-Free-Float-Hand-Guard-12-Rifle-length-_p_4182.html
Aero upper with bcg and charging handle $175
http://aeroprecisionusa.com/ar15-assembled-upper-556-bcg-stnd-charging-handle-bundle.html
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Deleted because brain malf.
Have a scope for it. Would you go with hornady gauge? Or is there a less expensive option that works well for checking headspace?Probably gonna want some type of sights whether its scope, red dot, or buis. And make sure to check headspace with that bolt/barrel.
I'm also planning on doing another with a 12.5-16" 6.8 ARP barrel, and ARP grendel barrel bolt combo build or a 6x45/Mongoose type using all my 5.56 brass I have stashed in the shop. Planning on starting with 3 receivers, the tools and barrel as soon as H has them available. Trueing all 3 on a lathe and piecing the the other 2 together as the money permits. The .223 Wylde I'm planning on doing now.
An upper lapping tool can be made from a piece of steel. The ID is 1.000" just turn down a 1.250" rod about 6-8" long and true the underside of the head, put a small relief in there on the shank and you will only have to set up in the lathe once. Takes 10 minutes with a drill and some lapping compound.I'm also planning on doing another with a 12.5-16" 6.8 ARP barrel, and ARP grendel barrel bolt combo build or a 6x45/Mongoose type using all my 5.56 brass I have stashed in the shop. Planning on starting with 3 receivers, the tools and barrel as soon as H has them available. Trueing all 3 on a lathe and piecing the the other 2 together as the money permits. The .223 Wylde I'm planning on doing now.
Also, ditch the crush washer for the flash hider, use a jam nut.
Those hand guards mount on a milspec barrel nut, I'm not sure if they come with one or not, so that may be something to add to your list. Both my AP Customs hand guards didn't come with them, and they were $200 each.
-Alexander
Yes those dtt handguards DO come with a milspec barrel nut
Didn't know hornady made them. Ptg makes the go gauge and I believe the no go gauge. I don't recall which ones is needed. Someone here can clarify that.Have a scope for it. Would you go with hornady gauge? Or is there a less expensive option that works well for checking headspace?Probably gonna want some type of sights whether its scope, red dot, or buis. And make sure to check headspace with that bolt/barrel.
Good to know, didn't see anything listed stating so.Yes those dtt handguards DO come with a milspec barrel nut
-Alexander
they don't-- ptg, manson, forster all make go, no-go, and field gauges --- he's probably thinking of the hornady headspace gauge used to measure shoulder bump when sizing brass for reloadingDidn't know hornady made them. Ptg makes the go gauge and I believe the no go gauge. I don't recall which ones is needed. Someone here can clarify that.
I was. Brain fart, thanks for the clarification.they don't-- ptg, manson, forster all make go, no-go, and field gauges --- he's probably thinking of the hornady headspace gauge used to measure shoulder bump when sizing brass for reloading
You need a barrel vise for torquing down and indexing the A2 flash suppressor.......
Unless you are planning on spinning your own barrel one day you can ditch the headspace gauges. If you want them checked just get a bolt with the barrel from ARP and they are checked before they go out the door.
I agree a barrel vise is good tool to make or buy.
Its preferable to use it or a Magpul Bevblock/Geisele Reaction Rod than upper receiver clamshell when torquing muzzle devices, barrel nuts, etc.
Its preferable to use it or a Magpul Bevblock/Geisele Reaction Rod than upper receiver clamshell when torquing muzzle devices, barrel nuts, etc.
Or just use a jam nut instead of a crush washer, avoids having to get a barrel vise and is reusable unlike a crush washer.I agree a barrel vise is good tool to make or buy.
Its preferable to use it or a Magpul Bevblock/Geisele Reaction Rod than upper receiver clamshell when torquing muzzle devices, barrel nuts, etc.
-Alexander
Totally agree on using a jam nut for muzzle devices! Best way to do it even when you have all e various tool.Or just use a jam nut instead of a crush washer, avoids having to get a barrel vise and is reusable unlike a crush washer.
-Alexander
But if you're building from scratch you will still need to torque your barrel to receiver fixing nut: a receiver block or clamshell is not the best solution - hence my suggestion of a Bevblock, Reaction Rod or barrel vice.
Barrel vice is free if your handy, Bevblock $40, Reaction Rod $100, pros and cons to all of them.
:a39:
J/K
Steve O
Upper vise block $23
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?r...&ul_noapp=true
So this is not a good deal for installing barrel and torquing the barrel nut? I can make a barrel vise if it is a better option. What are the advantages of the Bev block because I might go that route if it is handy to have around.
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?r...&ul_noapp=true
So this is not a good deal for installing barrel and torquing the barrel nut? I can make a barrel vise if it is a better option. What are the advantages of the Bev block because I might go that route if it is handy to have around.
Upper Vise blocks are handy for things like cleaning your barrel, and holding your upper while you mount things like optics and handguards, but I wouldn't recommend them for mounting barrels or muzzle devices. The best bang for your buck are aluminum barrel vise jaws:Upper vise block $23
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?r...&ul_noapp=true
So this is not a good deal for installing barrel and torquing the barrel nut? I can make a barrel vise if it is a better option. What are the advantages of the Bev block because I might go that route if it is handy to have around.
http://www.squirreldaddy.com/4-Aluminum-Barrel-Vise-Jaw-Pads-p/sd20-170.htm
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/608967/dpms-barrel-vise-jaws-ar-15-aluminum
Get a scrap piece of leather to put between the barrel and vise jaws. It will actually help keep the barrel from slipping while also preventing Al transfer to the barrel.
A Geissele reaction rod is handy and, I believe, worth it if you think you'll be tinkering quite a bit, just wait for one of the 20-30% off sales. Best to use the barrel vise for muzzle devices, though.
BTW, I have the SquirrelDaddy upper and lower vise block combo and use both all the time: http://www.squirreldaddy.com/R3-0-Upper-Lower-vise-block-and-top-rail-pad-combo-p/sd20-172.htm
The pivot pin tool isn't required, but for a $7 I think it is worth it: http://www.squirreldaddy.com/Detent-pin-and-spring-installation-tool-for-223-p/sd20-180.htm
Note that SquirrelDaddy has a lot of the tools you are looking for. I've ordered from them a few times and recommend them.
As a machinist, you surely know more about this than I do, but I also recommend beam style torque wrenches as they have the advantage of giving continuous torque indications, remain calibrated, and are cheaper.
I'll also admit I'm not a fan of the handguard you've selected if for no other reason than I've become fond of handguards designed with barrel nuts that don't require timing (SLR, BCM, Midwest G3s, and some others, I'm sure) which is partly why most of my ARs wear BCM KMRs anymore. Note that if you go that route then you wouldn't need to buy the armorer's wrench. For the price, though, it looks like it should serve you well.
And if you don't have some good anti-seize, order a small amount of AeroShell 33MS from ebay. I think 5ml lasted me for 6 or 7 barrel installations, at least.
Tex,Upper vise block $23
http://m.ebay.com/itm/150992738649?r...&ul_noapp=true
So this is not a good deal for installing barrel and torquing the barrel nut? I can make a barrel vise if it is a better option. What are the advantages of the Bev block because I might go that route if it is handy to have around.
The upper receiver "can" (not for sure "will") get twisted, sprung, or collapsed if it has to take the brunt of force to torque down muzzle devices, barrel nuts, etc. Using a mil-spec type barrel nut compounds this because you may need to use maximum torque to get the nut clocked so that the gas tube clears the nuts "teeth" (Boiler alluded to this in his post). The Bev Block and Reaction Rod lock into the recesses of the barrel extension and place the load there, which is better. However, when removing the same items it can put a lot of load on the barrel extension indexing dowel pin and its mating slot in the upper receiver. That's when a barrel vise is nice.
Thanks for all the replies. Going to bore some soft jaws for the barrel vise. I was planning on getting the dpms armorer's tool for torquing the mil-spec barrel nut but was wondering if there was a better less expensive option? Also going to go the jamb nut route for a2 flash hider.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
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